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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 XP 550 EPS. The problem I have is when I go to take off, it has to get to 1800-2000 rpms or more for the clutch to grab. Makes for a hard time in backing up and small movements. Very jerky. Any help?
 

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Have you checked the belt? If you overheated it by using the wrong range for the work/fun you were having, you may have glazed it; requiring higher RPMs in order to pinch the belt tight enough to start moving.
 

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That high of engagement is normal for that machine. On top of it the 2010 550 and 50 are the worst of them all. The jerky reverse is due to the weight profile in the primary clutch. The only real good fix for the jerky engagement and jumpyness in reverse is a clutch kit. The engagement RPM you can't do anything about though without it falling on it's face when you try to take off. Smoothing it out and making it not jump at that RPM is what a clutch kit will do for you. Along with better low end and mid range power.
 

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I'm betting this has not been an issue since 2010, so ridinagain' answer may not apply. I also suggest checking your belt and if you have not changed it, do so now and keep the old one as a spare. As the belt wears, it becomes narrower and so the clutch has be spin faster in order to get a squeeze on it and as amdforever said, over time it'll get glazed spots and especially at the low speeds it slips on these, then grabs giving a jerky result. imho
 

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The 2010 and 2011 idle at about 1700 RPM. 1800 when cold. Mine engaged at about 2100 RPM prior to changing out the primary clutch spring. I have not tried a clutch kit, so can't compare the spring change to what a full kit would do. But, changing the spring brought my engagement RPM down. It might be a little low now. Have to wait for the quad to reach full idle prior to shifting, or it is hard to shift. It was a $20 fix compared to a full kit ($240?).

In 2012 they lowered the idle to about 1400, enabling a lower engagement RPM...which smoothed it out.

Sean
 

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My 2013 550 was the same way. Jerky in reverse, causing me to lean forward every time it engaged. Didn't like it a bit. Bike would idle around 1400 rpm when warmed up. Going forward, the clutch would engage at approximately 1800 rpm. Installed A clutch kit from Ridinagain and now it feels like a totally different bike. It's totally smooth now, no jerky engagement, and puts the power down in low to mid range. I wish it would've came like this from the factory.
 

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Hey I can answer this first hand. I got the 850 touring. It worked great I thought.

My buddies kept telling me I needed a clutch kit. I contacted Ridinagain and just finished installing my clutch kit.

I was worried about it engaging at 1800 rpms. Wow, is it smooth engaging. The pulling at mid range has certainly improved as well.

The clutch kit costs pennies compared to what it will do for your machine.
 

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Hey I can answer this first hand. I got the 850 touring. It worked great I thought.

My buddies kept telling me I needed a clutch kit. I contacted Ridinagain and just finished installing my clutch kit.

I was worried about it engaging at 1800 rpms. Wow, is it smooth engaging. The pulling at mid range has certainly improved as well.

The clutch kit costs pennies compared to what it will do for your machine.
850 and 550 are different motors. His idle and engagement RPM will be different then our 850s. 850s can handle a lower engagement RPM due to our torque; the 550s need to be higher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How much is a QSC clutch kit and how hard is it to install? Any special tools? Thanks for any help.
 

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Assuming your 550 clutch is set up like our 850s, very easy. You don't have to remove the primary from the bike unless you wanna clean it up real good. If you do, you need a clutch puller. So people make their own, I just bought mine from QSC; don't recall the price. For the primary, there's hardly ANY pressure on that spring with the bike off so you just unbolt the cover on the clutch, remove the spring, then do each weight per arm; use new lock-nuts - like $1 a piece from the dealership. Secondary, just remove it from the bike, no special tools needed; and look up someones how-to thread on that piece, most likely you may need a 'press' to help hold the helix down while removing the back cover; that spring is under a good bit of pressure.
 
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