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Hello everyone new here, I have a 2016 sportsman570 with ebs. I have rad and tried everything I have seen on the forums with no luck. It is creeping hard and just about impossible to shift while running without breaking the linkage. Went to the clutches like everyone has said tried 0-6 shims on the secondary clutch and 0-3 on primary and very combination in between and the bet is always riding on the side away from the motor. I have cleaned the clutches and components scotch brite, checked for broken mounts, took the clutch to dealer they said the oneway Bearing is good. No matter what the secondary stays engaged and spinning. Rpms are at 1200-1250 at idle. Anyone ran into something similar? Any help is appreciated, thank you.
 

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Hello everyone new here, I have a 2016 sportsman570 with ebs. I have rad and tried everything I have seen on the forums with no luck. It is creeping hard and just about impossible to shift while running without breaking the linkage. Went to the clutches like everyone has said tried 0-6 shims on the secondary clutch and 0-3 on primary and very combination in between and the bet is always riding on the side away from the motor. I have cleaned the clutches and components scotch brite, checked for broken mounts, took the clutch to dealer they said the oneway Bearing is good. No matter what the secondary stays engaged and spinning. Rpms are at 1200-1250 at idle. Anyone ran into something similar? Any help is appreciated, thank you.
Was the machine not creeping before or hard to shift and then all of a sudden it became difficult?...or was it a "gradually worse thing".
I'm not sure that adding or subtracting shims would have been the solution. I'm not entirely sold on it being the clutch system. I'd start with the clutch inspection and then move over to the transmission. I just ran through my 2016 service manual, reviewed the schematic and it may be something in the transmission that has failed. Like I said I'd start with the clutches themselves (both primary and secondary, and take each one apart for a close inspection). I'm not an expert mechanic by any means, but I've been self performing the work on my own 2016 570 SP for a bit now with the aid of a diagnostic tool and the service manual...due to my distrust of the dealer. I'm the type of person that would rather buy parts myself for a reasonable cost (better parts) and perform the work correctly and meticulously...rather than rely on a dealer's service dept at inflated labor costs and inflated prices for parts. I suppose if
I was rich as hell it wouldn't be a problem...I'd trade a machine in every couple of years for a new one to avoid stuff breaking. Either way good luck. Bring it back to the dealer or download the service manual and dive in with the wrenches.

Did the dealer take the clutches apart and inspect them? Did they tell you the machine was fixed, you brought it home, and still was messed up? Something doesn't sound right. In my opinion...buy and download a service manual or bring it back to the dealer and have them diagnose and fix it properly. What else can I say.
 

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How many miles/hrs on the machine???
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Was the machine not creeping before or hard to shift and then all of a sudden it became difficult?...or was it a "gradually worse thing".
I'm not sure that adding or subtracting shims would have been the solution. I'm not entirely sold on it being the clutch system. I'd start with the clutch inspection and then move over to the transmission. I just ran through my 2016 service manual, reviewed the schematic and it may be something in the transmission that has failed. Like I said I'd start with the clutches themselves (both primary and secondary, and take each one apart for a close inspection). I'm not an expert mechanic by any means, but I've been self performing the work on my own 2016 570 SP for a bit now with the aid of a diagnostic tool and the service manual...due to my distrust of the dealer. I'm the type of person that would rather buy parts myself for a reasonable cost (better parts) and perform the work correctly and meticulously...rather than rely on a dealer's service dept at inflated labor costs and inflated prices for parts. I suppose if
I was rich as hell it wouldn't be a problem...I'd trade a machine in every couple of years for a new one to avoid stuff breaking. Either way good luck. Bring it back to the dealer or download the service manual and dive in with the wrenches.

Did the dealer take the clutches apart and inspect them? Did they tell you the machine was fixed, you brought it home, and still was messed up? Something doesn't sound right. In my opinion...buy and download a service manual or bring it back to the dealer and have them diagnose and fix it properly. What else can I say.
It’s always done it just not all the time, I put a clutch kit in it and is has magnified it and does it constantly now
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My secondary seems pretty lose when it’s off the bike. I don’t have a reference though to know if it’s normal condition and can’t figure out how to post videos?
 

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Well if you couldn't align it with shims and the belt is still visibly off and spinning fast at idle I would think your tranny and engine are way out of spec. So much so you can't align the two by shimming the secondary. The mounts on one or both have to be loosened and adjusted.
 

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Hello everyone new here, I have a 2016 sportsman570 with ebs. I have rad and tried everything I have seen on the forums with no luck. It is creeping hard and just about impossible to shift while running without breaking the linkage. Went to the clutches like everyone has said tried 0-6 shims on the secondary clutch and 0-3 on primary and very combination in between and the bet is always riding on the side away from the motor. I have cleaned the clutches and components scotch brite, checked for broken mounts, took the clutch to dealer they said the oneway Bearing is good. No matter what the secondary stays engaged and spinning. Rpms are at 1200-1250 at idle. Anyone ran into something similar? Any help is appreciated, thank you.
It’s the throttle position sensor. I had the same issue and they reset it at the dealer. If it needs replaced (throttle body could need replaced) it gets expensive. Just the TPS reset was like 60 dollars.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It’s the throttle position sensor. I had the same issue and they reset it at the dealer. If it needs replaced (throttle body could need replaced) it gets expensive. Just the TPS reset was like 60 dollars.
Yours would creep and hard to shift? I’ve already put a new primary on it trying to figure it out. Expensive is an understatement at this point lol
 

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Bluecord - why haven't you taken it to the dealer for diagnosis and service? They should have the tools and trained technicians (or at least one) to solve the problem. Why did you buy the technology (EFI) if you are not willing to pay for the technology to service it?
 

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Bluecord - why haven't you taken it to the dealer for diagnosis and service? They should have the tools and trained technicians (or at least one) to solve the problem. Why did you buy the technology (EFI) if you are not willing to pay for the technology to service it?
Bluecord - why haven't you taken it to the dealer for diagnosis and service? They should have the tools and trained technicians (or at least one) to solve the problem. Why did you buy the technology (EFI) if you are not willing to pay for the technology to service it?
where did I say I wouldn’t pay for it? It’s been the dealer twice now. They said it needed a whole new primary. I put a whole new primary on it, guess what? Didn’t fix it. Your assumptions are highly miss guided. Why are you even commenting on here if you have nothing to add to hep fix the problem? The dealers are not always all people make them out to be, I promise that.
 

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I would take the clutch kit out and put the stock parts back in and see if it's any better. The primary clutch weights could have the wrong profile on them not giving you enough belt side clearance, that would cause creeping.
 

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What's the idle rpm??
 

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where did I say I wouldn’t pay for it? It’s been the dealer twice now. They said it needed a whole new primary. I put a whole new primary on it, guess what? Didn’t fix it. Your assumptions are highly miss guided. Why are you even commenting on here if you have nothing to add to hep fix the problem? The dealers are not always all people make them out to be, I promise that.
I comment because it all that I can offer from here - I can suggest, speak from experience, share what I have experienced and post pages from service literature, but I can't fix a damn thing remotely.

You apparently have no experience, no knowledge of how the parts work together and do not have the necessary tools to address the problem.

Now all dealers are not equal - if the dealer you took it to could not fix the problem, then it needs to go to another dealer. When my urologist said my prostate needed to be removed, I went to another urologist. He checked my test results and performed his own examination - he ordered a procedure to remove a kidney stone and 20 years later, I still have my prostate. Just because you took it to a less than qualified dealer twice does not mean it does not need to be serviced by a dealer with the proper tools and experience.

Have you tried resetting the idle speed? Oh yeah, got have a computer and the $3000 program to do that. Oh well why not just reset the TPS to change the idle, maybe that will help.

Here's the solution - shut the engine off, put the transmission in what ever range you desire, start engine and apply throttle - problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would take the clutch kit out and put the stock parts back in and see if it's any better. The primary clutch weights could have the wrong profile on them not giving you enough belt side clearance, that would cause creeping.
I put a whole new oem factory primary in it with no clutch kit and it still does it. It is less aggressive of a creep without the kit, but none the less it still creeps pretty hard, and extremely hard to shift.
 

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I comment because it all that I can offer from here - I can suggest, speak from experience, share what I have experienced and post pages from service literature, but I can't fix a damn thing remotely.

You apparently have no experience, no knowledge of how the parts work together and do not have the necessary tools to address the problem.

Now all dealers are not equal - if the dealer you took it to could not fix the problem, then it needs to go to another dealer. When my urologist said my prostate needed to be removed, I went to another urologist. He checked my test results and performed his own examination - he ordered a procedure to remove a kidney stone and 20 years later, I still have my prostate. Just because you took it to a less than qualified dealer twice does not mean it does not need to be serviced by a dealer with the proper tools and experience.

Have you tried resetting the idle speed? Oh yeah, got have a computer and the $3000 program to do that. Oh well why not just reset the TPS to change the idle, maybe that will help.

Here's the solution - shut the engine off, put the transmission in what ever range you desire, start engine and apply throttle - problem solved.
I’m on a forum where people go to get help. Will you just stay out of the way please? I don’t have time for it, nor invite that into my life. Good day sir.
 

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So a new primary would mean a new on-way bearing. So the one-way on the new primary may be bad.
 

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So a new primary would mean a new on-way bearing. So the one-way on the new primary may be bad.
NO WAY! All the parts are new, properly installed and aligned by an experienced mechanic. It has to be something else like the belt cover is too tight or the transmission needs an oil change.

Actually, that's not a bad idea - put some 140 weight gear lube in the transmission and I'll bet the secondary clutch will quit spinning in neutral.
 

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Hello everyone new here, I have a 2016 sportsman570 with ebs. I have rad and tried everything I have seen on the forums with no luck. It is creeping hard and just about impossible to shift while running without breaking the linkage. Went to the clutches like everyone has said tried 0-6 shims on the secondary clutch and 0-3 on primary and very combination in between and the bet is always riding on the side away from the motor. I have cleaned the clutches and components scotch brite, checked for broken mounts, took the clutch to dealer they said the oneway Bearing is good. No matter what the secondary stays engaged and spinning. Rpms are at 1200-1250 at idle. Anyone ran into something similar? Any help is appreciated, thank you.
That happened to my dad's when he got his, brought it back adjusted something and left with the machine never a prob since. Bring it to dealer and tell them to fix it as it shouldn't do that especially if you bought it bran new!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yea brand new primary and secondary installed by the dealer with New belt. Still creeping hard and can hardly shift. Everyone is lost on this one, crazy stuff.
 
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