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Yes I am new the forum and I would be happy to get input or opinions from all. I have a 2002 Sportsman X 500. The thing seems to be very cold blooded and I have to warm it up for quite some time in order for it to idle without quitting. Once warmed up for about 5-7 minutes all is good. Any ideas to fix this??? I thought I could feather this with the choke, but that does not work. I have to open the choke up to start when cold, but after that it seems ineffective. hmmm
 

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Welcome to the forum.

My 2010 seems to have a hard time starting in the cold (under 5 deg C) as well. Needs 5 min warm up with full choke at start, then feathering off choke for the remaining time. Friend has same bike, a little better but still needs a long warm up. If you take off choke in the 5 min, it will stall.

Sorry I couldn't suggest a solution, but maybe this will help you know difficult cold starts are more common...
 

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Welcome to the board!:alcoholic:
 

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05 Sportsman 700 twin, same problem. Had this problem with my 01 500, pulled carb soaked overnight in carb clean chemical bucket, put it back together and no she starts right up & ready to roll, no warm up and hardly ever have to choke. 700 carb is next.
 

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As hoody mentioned (kinda....), check your idle circuit to make sure it is not clogged with dirt. If that is open chances are you need to adjust your idle mixture screw a little richer for the colder weather. I find that my trailboss 250 need about another full turn to run properly in colder weather. I still need to feather the choke for about 20 seconds in extreme cold but after that I just let it idle a bit to warm up and then I am good. If you don't know where your idle screw is set start from factory setting and then adjust from there. To get factory setting gently turn the screw in all the way and then back it out 1 1/2 turns. I am sitting between 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out for colder temps
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did your ATV have the problem regardless of temp? My Polaris acts the same in cold or warm temp and in between. The machine fires up but, it just needs to warm up for about 7 min or it will quit. What did you soak the carb in?
 

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Its kind of weird, I cant start without the choke. Once started the choke seems to be inoperative. It doesn't seem to let me feather in other words. If I change the idle from where it is at it seems like it will idle way to high. Im bugged (lol) maybe I should soak the carb and start there. I really appreciate all the help and ideas !!!!
 

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there a 6 thing that could cause a stall after starting choke stuck, carb mafunction, bad fuel, intake air leak, engine idle speed wrong, and ignigtion malfunction
 

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Hard starting problem was constant, reguardless of temp. Here in South Georgia it really don,t get below freezing for too long at a time. I use a product called "CHEM DIP" carb & parts cleaner. Comes in a bucket like a paint can w'basket inside to hold parts. You can buy it or similar product at any auto parts store. Make sure all rubber parts such as diaphram are removed before putting into soak. Dissasemble carb, take out all jets & any removable parts. set float & diaphram aside along w'any parts that (screws, cables...) that don't need cleaning. Put parts, carb body... in basket, lower into soak, seal up can and let er soak overnight. Once parts are removed, wash aoff w'water to get rid of chemical. To me, hardest part of this job is getting carb off & back on the bike. Go to Polaris parts site & look at barb breakdown to see what she looks like from inside.
 

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you can attain better results by using a can of carb cleaner and an air compressor to clean all the passages in the carb. Most idle problems can be attributed to a clogged idle jet. check out this thread for common carb issues. Just dipping a carb in cleaner is a start but it's not going to remove the dirt from all the passages. It takes something with some pressure to blow out the dirt and glaze. With this modern crappy gas we are being sold this process almost needs to be done at the beginning of each season.

Check this thread... http://www.polarisatvforums.com/forums/polaris-trail-blazer/9216-common-carb-issues.html
 

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I tried the spray out w'cleaner first w'no result. You are right though I did leave off a step. After washing off with water I use compressed air to dry and blow out all ports. I would recommend soaking since soaking chemical is stronger than spray and sometimes if ports are clogged w'varnish or other crappy gas deposits, you need the extra cleaning power & contact time of dip. But, I guess it's worth a try to blow & go as this may be all you need to do. If it don't work you can always pull er off & soak like I did. I have had success both ways w'carbs from boats to ATVs.I always try the blow & go w'my boat carbs cause it so easy to pull em off. Less than 5 mins, not so w'Popo.
 

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Hey Manean,
Just followed your link to Common Carb Issues, excellent info!!! Broken down in layman terms that even an old fart like me could follow. That's what I love bout this type forum, good info from real life experience. Thanks for your contribution man!
 

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my theory is any knowledge that goes un-shared is a wasted gift. If I acquire knowledge and take it to my grave then what good was it. If I share it with the world then it lives on beyond me. Glad it could help in some way.

Oh and BTW your comments about soaking are the carb are spot on. I had an old carb that sat around for years and the only way to un-lodge the dirt was to soak it for over a week and then follow that with a pressure cleaning. I still ended up soaking it again for another few days and repeating the process.
 

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if you do not want to worry about chemicals eating through any rubber or plastic you can just use dish soap and distilled water. ive use that in 5 gallon buckets to clean out 4 carb rails before.
 

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dish soap may be fine for cleaning the grease and sludge from the outside. But it will not eat through varnish caused by bad fuel. Unfortunately it takes something much more caustic, and my hands always pay the price when working with it cause I just cannot work with gloves on...
 

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check you idle screw you should be idling at 700 rpm it sound like your idle is just to low and no one seemed to mention that so you might want to give that a try
 

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you can attain better results by using a can of carb cleaner and an air compressor to clean all the passages in the carb. Most idle problems can be attributed to a clogged idle jet. check out this thread for common carb issues. Just dipping a carb in cleaner is a start but it's not going to remove the dirt from all the passages. It takes something with some pressure to blow out the dirt and glaze. With this modern crappy gas we are being sold this process almost needs to be done at the beginning of each season.

Check this thread... http://www.polarisatvforums.com/forums/polaris-trail-blazer/9216-common-carb-issues.html
+1:beerchug:
 

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Yes I am new the forum and I would be happy to get input or opinions from all. I have a 2002 Sportsman X 500. The thing seems to be very cold blooded and I have to warm it up for quite some time in order for it to idle without quitting. Once warmed up for about 5-7 minutes all is good. Any ideas to fix this??? I thought I could feather this with the choke, but that does not work. I have to open the choke up to start when cold, but after that it seems ineffective. hmmm
i had the same problem took it to polaris dealer did not know what was wrong i fixed my self all you have to do his set your intake valves at.004 and exhaust at .006 on the veller gauge
 

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air screw on bottom of carb, probably under brass cap needs set at 2.5 turns out , you can use a 1/8 " bit , drill thru brass cap, insert sheet metal screw and remopve brass cap, have seen some air screws completely shut, causes hard starting, cold blooded symptoms, have done this to several machines
 
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