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Common Carb Issues

228355 Views 133 Replies 74 Participants Last post by  latebird
Just trying to get a list of common carb issues for a 2002 TB.

From what I was able to get from the parts guy from the dealer was the following.

- The needle and seat was a common part to wear out which hinders the carbs ability to prevent fuel from back-flowing out and getting into the air cleaner.

- The pilot jet. Mentioned that it can be cleaned but at $6 it is not a bad idea to replace it.

I am currently trying to resolve a car issue I have right now and would love the feedback.

Please let me know of any other common carb issues. Once I get a bunch of isses I can post the issues and cause.
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I just put new Mikuni 34mm on both my 500s (98 and 99) and they were 30 bucks each and 20 bucks postage.

So long as I can get real Mikunis and not some Chikom knock-off for 50 bucks, I'll never rebuild a carb for these machines....ever.

Put 'em both on yesterday, took about an hour, and they started right up with a whiff of starting fluid and run better than they have since I got 'em.

Got the carbs off of Ebay.

The other thing is, at least here in AZ, we have this alcohol contaminated fuel for the eco-assholes to crow about...it does not lend itself to sitting with carburated vehicles. So I have to find a place that sells non-ethanol gasoline because I tend to use mine in summer and hunting season and then sit for months hooked up to a battery tender. I know I can use Sta-Bil but buying uncontaminated gas is probably easier.

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I have a guestion,but don't know exactly how to post it . It's about how to remove my caberator ?
It is a 2007 Hawkeye . The carberator needle valve seems to be stuck from old fuel (NEVER AGAIN) I had just changed the oil for a new season then the next morning I started to checked the oil again before going out. my crankcase was overflowing ! Anyway each time before I shut down the engine I turn off the fuel and let it run out .
How had is it to remove and clean the carberator ??
I can only relate how we did ours. Take the seat off. Unfasten the airbox nuts or bolts, remove the front two hoses that come to the airbox. Loosen the hose clamp for the rubber union that goes between the airbox and the carb.

Turn off the fuel at the shut off valve. On the Sportsman there were two very different assemblies for securing the carb to the frame. One had a wire-looking thing and two little tabs that screwed into the rear of the carb, the other had a real metal plate. Remove whichever you have.

On the 34mm Mikuni there are two vent ports at the upper rear of the carb. Remove those hoses and they should T to one hose and just be stuck in a hole on the frame. They're just vents.

Two fuel lines need to be disconnected. Don't mix them up. One will drain some fuel, the one on the left, so have something to catch the fuel.

You can work around it but there's a drive belt housing fresh air intake pipe that I had to removed because I need the space to remove the cables. It's kind of a PITA. But it can be done. You might have to loosen the fasteners that hold the fuel tank covering plastic to get the hose out.

The Mikuni 34mm has a plastic cover which protects the cable linkage. Remove the screws and use something to hold the butterfly open like you're accelerating, don't use the accelerator. A hook tool will help route the cable around the linkage boss. There should be a small aluminum or brass cable end that sits in the linkage, a cable terminus. Before you hook it out of there, make sure you have a rag stuck in the hole where the belt drive fresh air intake went! You don't want to drop that little mofo down into that hole because it's not magnetic and you won't be able to get it out! You'll have to take the whole belt drive housing apart to get to it!

once you have the accelerator cable disconnected from the linkage and thread the boss out of the carb, you have to contend with the choke cable.

This was the worst part. I had to go find a chinese end wrench and grind parts of it away to be able to turn the brass fitting where the choke cable goes into the carb. Once it was loose the return spring and cable terminus just come right out. It's one of those 1/8th turn at a time deals, there's even a cut out on the Mikuni to allow a wrench to get on there.

Not sure what carb you have but this is what we did and I'm glad I wrote it down while it was still fresh in my mind from yesterday.

The last part is loosening the clamp that holds the output side of the carb to the neck which is attached to the engine. Then slide the carb back and off and "Bob's your Uncle".

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