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Discussion Starter #1
So I was attempting to replace the suspension bushings and need to remove the rear axles to remove the bolts for the upper bushings.
When pulling the axle for removal the inner cv just comes apart with VERY little effort. I have never had this happen. I know if you yank too hard you can pull it apart but I'm not even jerking it. Just pulling away from the differential pulls it apart.
Both sides have the same result.
I actually pulled the one cv apart to far and now it fell apart in the boot.

Is this normal. On older sportsmans there is a clip that holds the cv together... doesn't apear to be this way on mine.
I'm now totally stumped.

Also does anyone know the axle diameter?
I'm going to order a CV Puller but don't know what size to order.
Some are 48mm and others 63mm...
Thanks for all the help
Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh and everything worked fine prior. The axles are good I only was removing them to get the bushing bolts out.
 

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hey whats up sean. to my knowledge there is a snap ring on the inner cv. i know the outer one is a snap ring.

as far as getting those upper a-arm bolts out u can take that bracket off that is holding ur suspension to the transaxel.

the axels are a mother to pull because the snap ring on the inner shaft rusts. ur machine is newer so pulling the axels wont b as bad.

ive never done it but have read that guys rig up a pulling point on the inner cv using metal hose clamp or exhaust clamp to use with a slide hammer.
 

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Yes..I used a 3 inch or 3 1/2 muffler clamp...took a 24 inch length of chain an put it on before I put the bottom part of clamp on...tightened up.....use a slide hammer with a hook...hooked chain..one zap and it was off....my shaft was 9 years old..I sprayed with rust blaster day before....was very easy this way...I kept the set up for front ones in spring.....
 

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also if u go the axel removal route u can push the second one out through the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys!
I just ordered this cv puller from auto zone. Picking it up tonight.


There is a snap ring inside the cv that should hold the cv to the spilines... I wonder if this is missing.
It shouldn't be this easy to pull the cv joint apart...
We'll see what happens with the cv puller.
I'm going to soak it with some PB Blaster before removing them.
Main reason for pulling the axles now is to repair the one that came apart inside the boot. Cant seem to line up the cv joint to lock it together. Right now the shaft isn't locked into the cv and rear diff...
 

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thats a nice adapter. how much did that run u?
 

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I had to fix a torn CV joint boot years ago on my 700 and a puller was not necessary to pull it out. A quick pop got it loose.
 

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I had to fix a torn CV joint boot years ago on my 700 and a puller was not necessary to pull it out. A quick pop got it loose.
thats probably when the cv's were held together with external snap rings.
 

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Good to note on the new stuff. One reason I put Ricochets on the 550 was to reduce chance I needed to mess with CV joint boot again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thats a nice adapter. how much did that run u?
$53 total from Auto Zone
Sold as 2 parts.
The slide hammer for $30
Cv adapter for $20

If it works well it will be well worth the cost!
 

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if you have an advanced auto near you..you could of rented one...they charge you then give you back what it cost to rent when you return it.....I hope you have enough room between CV an transaxel casing..mine had the space the thickness of a penny..lol....why I went with the exhaust clamp an chain...was so simple....
 

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if you have an advanced auto near you..you could of rented one...they charge you then give you back what it cost to rent when you return it.....I hope you have enough room between CV an transaxel casing..mine had the space the thickness of a penny..lol....why I went with the exhaust clamp an chain...was so simple....
also the trans axel is cupped inward makes it tough to get anything in there. well let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
if you have an advanced auto near you..you could of rented one...they charge you then give you back what it cost to rent when you return it.....I hope you have enough room between CV an transaxel casing..mine had the space the thickness of a penny..lol....why I went with the exhaust clamp an chain...was so simple....
Going to use your option as plan B... lol.
How did you hook up the chain?
 

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Another option is to put a wonder bar and screw driver under one side..wedging them in there. Then smack the other side of the cup with a rubber mallet. If the shaft is really stuck you will need to wedge it in further and smack it again. Lather, Rinse, repeat.

Sean
 

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you place the U bolt on the cup....then put a link on each side of U bolt...then put clamp on ..tighten it good....when u use the slide hammer..make sure its centered on slacked chain..so its a even pull....I bet one or two pulls your free.....let me know how it works
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you place the U bolt on the cup....then put a link on each side of U bolt...then put clamp on ..tighten it good....when u use the slide hammer..make sure its centered on slacked chain..so its a even pull....I bet one or two pulls your free.....let me know how it works
Awesome idea!
Any idea what size ubolt to get? If not I'll just measure it tomorrow.

The cv adapter for the slide hammer is useless.
I also wrapped a chain around the cup and bolted it together but can't get the chain tight enough.

The ubolt idea sounds like it's the way to go...
I'll keep everyone posted.
For being a 2012 these axles are putting up one hell of a fight.
Soaked them in PB Blaster tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Al53 Just checked your original post thanks got the size
 

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yes i thot the cv adapter was not going to work...but check the size..it was either 3 in or 3 1/2 in...I forget..in fact its still in the back of my truck....the whole set up....before i brain stormed this idea..i spent 3 hours trying to remove the shaft....when I went to first remove the shaft...it came apart...the c clip on rear joint was broke so when I pulled by had all that was left on the machine was the cup...boot was ripped why I was replacing the shaft....I was so agrivated trying to think of a way...loll..then I stopped ..went in side an chilled a bit...came up with that idea...

next day i went to advanced auto..got the clamp..rented the puller..went to lowes bought 2 feet of chain....hooked it all up....first pull it came off like it was not stuck on....i sprayed rust blaster on it also..let it sit over night..sprayed a few times...did both sides that day..all new shafts...saved to good one for a spare....they were originals from 2002...still had polaris part stickers on it...loll.

Oh forgot....I tried to drill the cup ..was going to insert bolts to try to pull it...used titanium bits also...that steel is harder than a girls nipples on a cold day..would not cut...

Good luck..let me know how you made out.....one other thing....if your going to remove boot...there is a groove the boot sits in on the cup..at least on mine there was...I placed the u bolt in that groove...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The axles are good along with the boots. The reason for removal was just to get the upper bushings changed. Now one of the inner cv's has come apart in the boot so I have to pull the axle and then disassemble the joint and put it back together.
I have a feeling that both clips that go on the splines were either broken or missing. It takes zero effort to pull the cv apart and it shouldn't be that way.
I'll keep ya posted.
 
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