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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As nice as a 2 stroke gasoline trail boss is, It`s not for me, I have been working on diesels for the past 5 years and they have been shown to be superior to gasoline in every way EXCEPT speed. No a 4.7kw diesel will not beat 7000+rpm the Polaris engine puts out, but I would like something with a little power. So I have started a conversion project on a 89` Trail boss 250 4X4, but I have never owned a ATV before :eek:. I have cleaned up and bed-coated the frame and completely restored the body of this atv that I picked up for around 400$ with a non-running 2-stroke engine, I have gotten it running as of now and I would like to sell it. It runs fine but the carb needs adjustment which I have no clue how to do. So I put it up for sale on cl for 250$. So below I will list my problems and progress on the conversion on this thread.
 

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I tried a diesel conversion with Kubota D600 3cyl in a '96 s-man 500...It was too wide and too tall....

Measure twice...

Ben
 

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Hey, Just do it....I love diesel quads!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The diesel torque at low rpms is known to eat clutches and drivetrains engineered for gasoline.
Wow thanks for the info, I was just thinking because I`ve never started this engine to run at more than idle, what the engagement of the original clutch is. I was wanting to put a go cart torque converter on it, but I am unsure of it`s center to center distance from the engine`s shaft to the transmissions which is kinda the whole problem right now. I will take pics and start on the project as soon as the gasoline engine sells.
 

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The diesel torque at low rpms is known to eat clutches and drivetrains engineered for gasoline.
My solution to that was an industrial twin V-belt clutch that came with the kubota...That was to be my drive clutch. I chose to keep the stock secondary...highly machined though...As in no more chive movement....

Just FYI the motor is the D600...it came in the G5200 tractor...smaller engine than the D662...

Ben
 

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The diesel torque at low rpms is known to eat clutches and drivetrains engineered for gasoline.
Wow thanks for the info, I was just thinking because I`ve never started this engine to run at more than idle, what the engagement of the original clutch is. I was wanting to put a go cart torque converter on it, but I am unsure of it`s center to center distance from the engine`s shaft to the transmissions which is kinda the whole problem right now. I will take pics and start on the project as soon as the gasoline engine sells.
That was where I messed up on the measuring...
Now I think if you could lower the engagement RPM on the clutches it wouldn't be to bad...Using oem clutches that is....
Another thought....Chains??? What are you planning there? Also, the jack shaft for front wheel drive should be inspected...(a wear spot)

Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The diesel torque at low rpms is known to eat clutches and drivetrains engineered for gasoline.
My solution to that was an industrial twin V-belt clutch that came with the kubota...That was to be my drive clutch. I chose to keep the stock secondary...highly machined though...As in no more chive movement....

Just FYI the motor is the D600...it came in the G5200 tractor...smaller engine than the D662...

Ben
Okay, kubota really makes good diesel engines. I`m very happy with the d662. As for the v belt clutch, are you talking about the one in front of the engine? It has 2 belts on a tensioning system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The diesel torque at low rpms is known to eat clutches and drivetrains engineered for gasoline.
Wow thanks for the info, I was just thinking because I`ve never started this engine to run at more than idle, what the engagement of the original clutch is. I was wanting to put a go cart torque converter on it, but I am unsure of it`s center to center distance from the engine`s shaft to the transmissions which is kinda the whole problem right now. I will take pics and start on the project as soon as the gasoline engine sells.
That was where I messed up on the measuring...
Now I think if you could lower the engagement RPM on the clutches it wouldn't be to bad...Using oem clutches that is....
Another thought....Chains??? What are you planning there? Also, the jack shaft for front wheel drive should be inspected...(a wear spot)

Ben
The problem I am having is Either to use a FULLY chain driven system, from engine shaft to transmission drive-shaft (It will eat the clutch up + less power + not waterproof/ Dirtproof.) Or use a go cart torque converter (Only problem is center to center, the distance between the engine shaft and the transmissions shaft, as the torque converter uses a fixed mounting plate, there is no adjustment. I was thinking of using the torque converter, then from the torque converters sprocket, use a small chain to a sprocket on the trannsmission. Noob question, A 1:1 ratio is the same speed per rotation right? not like a 1:2 or 2:1?
 

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Yep...1:1 is the same RPM... about the v-belts...I was talking about the clutch that came with the motor...(From stationary service)
I'm not sure how chain drive would work??? Might not be too bad...RESEARCH...Personally I would stick with belt...Have you thought of modding the OEM clutches? You might be able to adapt the drive clutch to the yanmar....

Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yep...1:1 is the same RPM... about the v-belts...I was talking about the clutch that came with the motor...(From stationary service)
I'm not sure how chain drive would work??? Might not be too bad...RESEARCH...Personally I would stick with belt...Have you thought of modding the OEM clutches? You might be able to adapt the drive clutch to the yanmar....

Ben
I have a mini lathe so mating the clutch to the shaft isnt a problem, but like greesemonkeyok said "The diesel torque at low rpms is known to eat clutches and drivetrains engineered for gasoline." I dont even know what rpm the clutch engages, its also a very large clutch and for a single cylinder diesel putting out around 4-5hp, it may destroy the crank too. The chain fix is easy but I need the Trannsmission ratios in order to calculate what sprockets shoult be used. I will post a diagram of what I am thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Very Crude Diagram...

Diagram Text Line Circle Parallel


This is what I want to do, I just need to sell the gas engine and carb, buy the Torque converter (Ebay for $86), And but the sprocket to fit over the Transmission shaft. :drive: Easy, Right?
 

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That looks pretty good...I get what you're going for...Will the torque converter be chain or belt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That looks pretty good...I get what you're going for...Will the torque converter be chain or belt?
Torque converter from engine via belt, then torque converter to transmission via chain, if the gear on the Torque converter is a 12t/10t and the sprocket that fits on the transmission is a 11 tooth, Should I get the 12t or the 10t for the torque converter? Like I said I need to sell the gas engine before I start on the project. But I want to buy the torque converter while its dirt cheap.
 

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12T would be my guess...That will be a little over 1:1 Not much though...What # chain you thinking??? One thought, How far will the TC set the engine forward??? Will it interfere with the jack shaft for the front drive???
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well A FYI on the trail boss 4x4 the transmission to front differential sprocket fits the shaft of the transmission. The torque converter uses a 12t/10t #35,#40,#41 sprocket, what does the trail-boss use? A aftermarket compatible chain says 520? Is that a compatible size for the #35,40,41? I will mount the engine to where it will fit in the frame with only minor frame modification. Otherwise the outer plastics may not fit on it. But like you said before any "real" change is made I must first get the Torque converter and measure how if will mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Project starting now!!!!

Okay I may make a new thread to explain the conversion status. But I will start here. I can`t sell the engine (IDK why, its a solid rebuilt engine, guess nobody`s interested.) Here are some pics of the engine and newly installed TC modification is required. For those of you converting into a Predator 212 or a gx160, 200 ect. this will be ALOT easier for you seeing how the Torque Converter is basically meant for those engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Quick update just ordered the #41 chain (10ft) off eBay aswell as a 7/8" sprocket for the transmission shaft. the problem is its about a millimeter or 2 off, so I am worried it may shake a little so I may need to make a spacer/sleeve. It has a setscrew so I may (Worst case scenario) drill into the shaft and secure it that way. Or use a small plate its only 1.098mmoff (Thanks caliper :p) I dont think it will matter. Will update my album as I progress through the project. (http://www.polarisatvforums.com/forums/members/53052-albums1857.html)
 
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