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I have an 04 Magnum 330. I know what to use for the engine and tranny but there are some contradictions as to what to use in the front and rear diffs.

For example: the manual says to use Polaris premium synthetic gearcase lube in the front and rear diff., while the Polaris website says use Demand Drive in the front and Angle Drive in the rear.
 

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Angle Drive fluid (or synthetic gear lube) in the diffs. Demand Drive fluid goes in the front hubs.

The info you're seeing on the website is for the newer machines with the central hilliard in the front diff. Those use Demand Drive in the diff.

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4 different fluids for this machine? Polaris must have learned from Harley Davidson on how to milk their customers. LOL!
 

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No hubs on that machine. That has the locking front diff used on the newer machines. So AGL in the rear diff and DDF in the front diff. Best part is that both diffs take 7-9oz so you get to buy 2 $14 quarts to use 1/5 of each. I think they are in business with Harley! LOL
 

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4 different fluids for this machine? Polaris must have learned from Harley Davidson on how to milk their customers. LOL!
Four different fluids in a late model 4wd truck. Why all the fuss?
 

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I know what Id do , Does it have the tranny and rear diff together like the 500 sportsman ?Id run the same oil in the tranny-reardiff as I do in the motor, then demand drive in the front diff, I sevice several 500Sprtsman and one 330-sportsman, use Castrol Edge 5-30 in motors and trannys, demand drive in front diff , It doesn't have hubs does it?
 

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4 different fluids for this machine? Polaris must have learned from Harley Davidson on how to milk their customers. LOL!
Four different fluids in a late model 4wd truck. Why all the fuss?
Im just joking. I went from having a sport quad with only one lube to change to this, where I have to stay on top of four different types of lubes.
 

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Just yanking your chain Brother..........
 

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I believe you have the hubs out by your front tires or the picture I looked at shows your model does. If it does you can run synthetic ATF in them like alot of people did back then. Unscrew the screw and drain the old fluid out then put your wheels at the 3 or 9 o'clock position and fill them up with synthetic ATF until the fluid comes out. Install the screws back in the hole and you are done.
Now go get you a bottle of gear lube from Wal Mart and put it in the appropriate places per your manual.
For tranny fluid I use 5W20 oil in mine instead of the high dollar POPO stuff.
I don't spend the big bucks for the pretty bottle when there are substitutes on the market just as good at a fraction of the cost.
Polaris cannot deny your warrinty either for using a different type fluid as long as it meet specs which alot of stuff does. For your model that doesn't matter anyway.

Ronnie
 

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A foot note: I heard you should alway loosen a fill hole before draining fluids. If you have drained the fluid and can't get the fill off, you don't want to have to turn the machine up side down to get fluids back in.
 

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570 vs 2003 polaris 600.

I will be changing my fluids after the break-in soon. On my 2003 Sportsman 600 it called for: Demand Drive for the front, Angle drive for the rear-end and AGL for the transmission. Are those all the same for the new 570? I found it interesting in the book to that is gave the procedures for changing all the fluids except the rear end. I haven't thoroughly looked it over but the rear-end looks a little different on this one. Anyone changed it yet.

Also, The dealer recommended changing EVERY fluid after 25 hours. Do y'll think that is necessary for the rear-end and transmission?

Thanks for the info.
 

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I will be changing my fluids after the break-in soon. On my 2003 Sportsman 600 it called for: Demand Drive for the front, Angle drive for the rear-end and AGL for the transmission. Are those all the same for the new 570? I found it interesting in the book to that is gave the procedures for changing all the fluids except the rear end. I haven't thoroughly looked it over but the rear-end looks a little different on this one. Anyone changed it yet.



Also, The dealer recommended changing EVERY fluid after 25 hours. Do y'll think that is necessary for the rear-end and transmission?



Thanks for the info.

I believe the 570 is like the 500 in that it has the rear diff and tranny fused. On a new machine I do oil/filter at 20 hours and all fluids/new plug(s) at 50 hours personally. I only do about 50 hours a year though.


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I meant to start a new thread on this one. Didn't mean to steer the fellow's thread off course. That said, I believe you are right. I just went and looked. All one piece it appears and no drain plug on the rear differential like my '03. So I guess it is just Oil, transmission and front gear box lube. My riding habits are very low. I ride my 4 wheeler during turkey season and then again at deer season. It stays in the garage the rest of the time. I am going to try really hard during turkey season to put 25 hours on it and change all the fluids. Then will change the oil once a year and the transmission and front box oil every 2 years. I literally put 15 hours a year on one, maybe. Probably more like 8-10.
 

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So, would it screw up the front diff if you put 80w-90 gear oil in it? Too heavy? Not the right additives?
 

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So, would it screw up the front diff if you put 80w-90 gear oil in it? Too heavy? Not the right additives?

Not sure that it would "screw it up" but you'd probably have issues with it not engaging or disengaging. Most folks who don't use Polaris fluids for any other part if the machine use the demand drive because the front diffs tend to be picky.


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So, would it screw up the front diff if you put 80w-90 gear oil in it? Too heavy? Not the right additives?
The front gearbox actually engages and disengages electromechanical based on need and requires a less viscous fluid such as ATF or demand drive. I think this is or is like a Hilliard gear.

A differential just transfers energy from the driveshaft to the axle using simple gears at 90 degree angles to each other so you want a thicker oil to bathe the gears.
 

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A foot note: I heard you should alway loosen a fill hole before draining fluids. If you have drained the fluid and can't get the fill off, you don't want to have to turn the machine up side down to get fluids back in.
As simple as this advice is, I thought I was going to have an aneurism trying to loosen the fill plug on the front differential on my 06 800 EFI!!! Was starting to get worried. NO reason whatsoever for a plug that has an o-ring on it to be over tightened like that!!
 

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So, would it screw up the front diff if you put 80w-90 gear oil in it? Too heavy? Not the right additives?
The front gearbox actually engages and disengages electromechanical based on need and requires a less viscous fluid such as ATF or demand drive. I think this is or is like a Hilliard gear.

A differential just transfers energy from the driveshaft to the axle using simple gears at 90 degree angles to each other so you want a thicker oil to bathe the gears.
Thanks. I thought as much, but you never know. I remember changing out the fluid on a GM product and had my Ford product changed years back. It/they carried on and grumbled and sounded like gears were destroying each other until the proper "posi unit" additive was put in.

So far, the only thing I have noticed is the front wheels turning while on the jackstands and in gear without the AWD button engaged. Thinking about changing it out when I get it back from the shop for the rear prop shaft u joint replacement.
 

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A foot note: I heard you should alway loosen a fill hole before draining fluids. If you have drained the fluid and can't get the fill off, you don't want to have to turn the machine up side down to get fluids back in.
As simple as this advice is, I thought I was going to have an aneurism trying to loosen the fill plug on the front differential on my 06 800 EFI!!! Was starting to get worried. NO reason whatsoever for a plug that has an o-ring on it to be over tightened like that!!
I had the same issue...had to buy a Allen socket and lean on it to break them all loose...only supposed to be 8-10'ft lbs of torque...last guy must have used a breaker bar to tighten...idiot dealer mechanic. Do them myself now.
 
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