[Millsy]

Was in a bog the other weekend and could smell rubber and had no wheel spin (high range) so I thought I've toasted the belt and bought a new one, anyway when I pulled the cover off the belt looks ok except for the longitudinal grooves in the belt? All the help videos I have looked at had none of these grooves, they also said in neutral that both clutches are spinning and this stops hot spots and wear on the belt however when in neutral mine is spinning the secondary clutch but the main one will not engage until 1500rpm thus making grooves in the belt. (First pic) Do I need to make an adjustment somewhere or what? Any advice appreciated.
Second pic is the bike in neutral idling, you can see that only one clutch spinning.

 

[RVS Performance]

Can't tell by the pictures how much belt wear you have, but it looks to be ok still. While you're in there I'd take the secondary off and apart. Maybe some worn buttons or something in there causing the drag in high gear. You should be riding in low for slow speed and hard work like a bog. That is really the most logical explication for the belt slipping and burning.

 

[cwlongshot]

I agree.

To be safe I would remove and clean resurface BOTH. Then dress belt to remove any glazing. (Shiny spots) then take that belt and store it as a spare and install new.

Remember to first WASH THE NEW BELT IN WARM SOAPY WATER AND DRY !!

CW

 

[Millsy]

Thanks guys

 

[GaleHawkins]

Our manual for the old 2002 Magnum states to protect the belt from high temps to run in low gear up to about 7 MPH max. That puts enough air flow through the belt housing. Running even 4-5 MPH sounds like the engine is really humming.

If smelling the belt and going to low range does not stop it from slipping then as noted above it is time to look at the parts in the clutches for wear/damage.

 

[Rooskey]

Sounds like you may have put a good glaze on your belt.

 

[GaleHawkins]

Sounds like you may have put a good glaze on your belt.

Would removing the belt and hitting the contact surfaces with course grit sand paper to break the glaze be OK if only glazed but other wise health looking belt?:question:

 

[cwlongshot]

Maybe. See the belt wears some too. On it's sides and it don't take a lot before it's not able to be clamped as tightly and slips causing same problems....

This is why I suggested Cleaning it and saving as spare and running new belt.

CW

 

[redmodu_NS]

Just before the belt went on mine there was a stumble when i pulled away slowly.. kinda like a shutter in the bike.. Replace if you have the part and then you dont have to worry

 

[Polarispop]

I agree.

To be safe I would remove and clean resurface BOTH. Then dress belt to remove any glazing. (Shiny spots) then take that belt and store it as a spare and install new.

Remember to first WASH THE NEW BELT IN WARM SOAPY WATER AND DRY !!
CW

Never heard of this before. What is the purpose of this cwlongshot?

 

[bsutton.5]

I agree.

To be safe I would remove and clean resurface BOTH. Then dress belt to remove any glazing. (Shiny spots) then take that belt and store it as a spare and install new.

Remember to first WASH THE NEW BELT IN WARM SOAPY WATER AND DRY !!
CW

Never heard of this before. What is the purpose of this cwlongshot?

Yea why? I've never heard that.


2013 850ho

 

[kcaves]

I think what he means by clean and resurface. Clean your clutch sheaves. Blow all the belt dust out of them and then take a scotch brite pad and go over the surface of the sheaves. Grabs the belt better. And when they get there belts from the factory, they are coated with a preservative just like new tires to keep the rubber from rotting. Always a good idea to wash the belt

 

[cwlongshot]

I agree.

To be safe I would remove and clean resurface BOTH. Then dress belt to remove any glazing. (Shiny spots) then take that belt and store it as a spare and install new.

Remember to first WASH THE NEW BELT IN WARM SOAPY WATER AND DRY !!
CW

Never heard of this before. What is the purpose of this cwlongshot?

Yea why? I've never heard that.


2013 850ho

Because when the belt is manufacture red it's from a mold that mold uses a release agent. That material can cause issues if left on. This is part of the reason factory recommends no excessive forces on machine for first X number of hours. To my mind it's easier to start clean. Simple task wash and dry belt.

CW

 

[jgue498]

why the wash in warm soapy water? thxs...

 

[kemblkr]

Put on the new belt and get a new spare. I have never heard of washing a belt as they are designed as plug and play...just break the belt in by letting your engine warm up for a few minutes and then drive low and slow for a bit to warm up the belt...I wouldn't hammer the throttle until you have a couple of hours on the new belt. High gear is for running on trails. Use low when bogging or mudding...your manual will give you the best advice for the correct speeds and conditions for high and low gear. Always warm up the belt in low for a few minutes before using high gear and your belt will last for a very long time.

 

[Amdforever]

why the wash in warm soapy water? thxs...

Two people literally right before your post, explained that. It removes any possible release agent residue; usually an oil or wax based product. As such, a system that relies on friction and pressure to operate correctly (IE your CVT) does not like a lubricant on its working surface.

I think what he means by clean and resurface. Clean your clutch sheaves. Blow all the belt dust out of them and then take a scotch brite pad and go over the surface of the sheaves. Grabs the belt better. And when they get there belts from the factory, they are coated with a preservative just like new tires to keep the rubber from rotting. Always a good idea to wash the belt

For clarification, when scuffing the sheave faces; go from the shaft to the outter edge of the sheave. The motion should be perpendicular to belt travel, NOT parallel to belt travel.

 

[kemblkr]

why the wash in warm soapy water? thxs...

Two people literally right before your post, explained that. It removes any possible release agent residue; usually an oil or wax based product. As such, a system that relies on friction and pressure to operate correctly (IE your CVT) does not like a lubricant on its working surface.

I think what he means by clean and resurface. Clean your clutch sheaves. Blow all the belt dust out of them and then take a scotch brite pad and go over the surface of the sheaves. Grabs the belt better. And when they get there belts from the factory, they are coated with a preservative just like new tires to keep the rubber from rotting. Always a good idea to wash the belt

For clarification, when scuffing the sheave faces; go from the shaft to the outter edge of the sheave. The motion should be perpendicular to belt travel, NOT parallel to belt travel.

Been reading posts for a long time on here and I have never seen anyone mention washing a new belt with soap and water...what about residue left from the from the soap? Sounds like a bad idea to me...sorry...you may want to ArmorAll it though so it lasts longer....lmao:lame:

 

[bsutton.5]

why the wash in warm soapy water? thxs...

Two people literally right before your post, explained that. It removes any possible release agent residue; usually an oil or wax based product. As such, a system that relies on friction and pressure to operate correctly (IE your CVT) does not like a lubricant on its working surface.

I think what he means by clean and resurface. Clean your clutch sheaves. Blow all the belt dust out of them and then take a scotch brite pad and go over the surface of the sheaves. Grabs the belt better. And when they get there belts from the factory, they are coated with a preservative just like new tires to keep the rubber from rotting. Always a good idea to wash the belt

For clarification, when scuffing the sheave faces; go from the shaft to the outter edge of the sheave. The motion should be perpendicular to belt travel, NOT parallel to belt travel.

Been reading posts for a long time on here and I have never seen anyone mention washing a new belt with soap and water...what about residue left from the from the soap? Sounds like a bad idea to me...sorry...you may want to ArmorAll it though so it lasts longer....lmao:lame:

I agree. I've never read or heard about this til now

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

 

[Amdforever]

Been reading posts for a long time on here and I have never seen anyone mention washing a new belt with soap and water...what about residue left from the from the soap? Sounds like a bad idea to me...sorry...you may want to ArmorAll it though so it lasts longer....lmao:lame:

If you don't know how to wash soap off something you have bigger issues...my .02

 

[indy]

I also scrub my belts with a brush (not metal or brass) with warm soapy water then rinse belt, patt dry then let hang or sit over night, our race belts will not grab hard until we do this and on the race stuff it is done ever week, it just gets all the crap and oil and dirt and debris out of the belt, makes them last along time, we also on some of the hard belts we put between 2 towels and microwave them for 2 to 5 minutes depending on the microwave