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Discussion Starter #1
2005 sportsman 700 efi

splines on my original oem rear driveshaft (one between rear diff and tranny) were sloppy on both ends so i bought a complete new aftermarket shaft. it fits on the splines great but i found the overall length is a bit longer than the oem and the hole for the role pin/bolt doesnt line up with the hole on the tranny shaft and is off by about half a hole size. currently the total movement back and forth of the shaft (movement from tranny to rear diff in direction of splines) is maybe 1/8”. will i be ok without a roll pin or bolt. i dont see how it could fall off.
 

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Loosen the diff mounting bolts. There should be enough play in the holes to make up the difference.
 

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Tranny??? As I recall the tranny is pretty "fixed" but there may be some movement. If that doesn't do it I'd lot for another shaft!!
 

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Well aside from stripping the shaft nothing :bee:.
 

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At the very least I would elongate the drive-shaft hole so I could get a bolt through it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ahh, rotational torque. I thought the role pins were more for safety, keep shaft from falling off.

Im not disagreeing with ya but its interesting that polaris didnt require a role pin on the rear diff side and only the trans side.

Thanks for your help understanding.
 

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Anytime!!
 

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The splines transmit the force - the roll pin retains the parts - any lateral force on the roll pin will cause it to break if spring or tool steel and gall if cold rolled or drawn steel
 

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The splines transmit the force - the roll pin retains the parts - any lateral force on the roll pin will cause it to break if spring or tool steel and gall if cold rolled or drawn steel
Yeah I've seen pins that shattered and fell out in pieces because the yoke splines had gotten so worn as to have a lot of rotational slack. All the pin does is hold the yoke in place on the shaft to keep it from trying to slide off. It serves no other purpose. I always throw the pins away and put a grade 8 bolt in its place. First of all I never did like the idea of beating on the shaft, bearings and seals to get the pins out and in. Also, the pins will sometimes work loose and cut a hole in the tranny case or whatever else is nearby.
 

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I was debating not putting anything in cause the aftermarket shaft hole doesnt line up. Sounds like i should hog out the hole and get a bolt in there to prevent spline wear. I have a picture.
You misunderstand. The pin does nothing to prevent yoke spline wear. All it does is keep the yoke from being able to slip off the end of the shaft. The yoke splines will wear with age/miles and need replaced eventually anyway.
Have you tried putting a tapered punch in the hole to align it?
If it just will not align I wouldn't worry about it. The prop shaft can't get off the shaft. There isn't enough room.
 

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Op, you might ride it a little and see if the yoke moves any. So long as it can't get against the tranny case I don't think it would be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was debating not putting anything in cause the aftermarket shaft hole doesnt line up. Sounds like i should hog out the hole and get a bolt in there to prevent spline wear. I have a picture.
You misunderstand. The pin does nothing to prevent yoke spline wear. All it does is keep the yoke from being able to slip off the end of the shaft. The yoke splines will wear with age/miles and need replaced eventually anyway.
Have you tried putting a tapered punch in the hole to align it?
If it just will not align I wouldn't worry about it. The prop shaft can't get off the shaft. There isn't enough room.
Oh ok
I was going off of post #6. I agree there is no way the shaft is sliding off.
 

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I don't like hammering the pin out either - I fashioned a press using a fine threaded (machinists) 4 inch c-clamp to do the job - I drilled a hole in the shoe for the pin to pass through, cut 2 inches of thread off the bolt and machined the unthreaded portion to 7/32" - a socket, an extension and a ratchet is all that is needed and if I'm being lazy, once things are lined up and moving, I will use a cordless drill or an air impact driver to speed the removal. Replacing the removal bolt in the c-clamp with a std. bolt makes it an installation tool, but I like to make things look trick, so I use stainless steel allen drive sex bolts for a super clean installation.
 

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I don't like hammering the pin out either - I fashioned a press using a fine threaded (machinists) 4 inch c-clamp to do the job - I drilled a hole in the shoe for the pin to pass through, cut 2 inches of thread off the bolt and machined the unthreaded portion to 7/32" - a socket, an extension and a ratchet is all that is needed and if I'm being lazy, once things are lined up and moving, I will use a cordless drill or an air impact driver to speed the removal. Replacing the removal bolt in the c-clamp with a std. bolt makes it an installation tool, but I like to make things look trick, so I use stainless steel allen drive sex bolts for a super clean installation.
LOL... You da man latebird. I used the reject choke tool you sent me today. Works like a charm... thanks

OP, I was thinking about it this evening. Did you try using a drift punch to tap on the meaty part of the rear yoke to see if it'll drive back on the differential shaft enough to get a pin or bolt in. That front yoke not being pinned could let it work down against the tranny case or seal. You don't need that to happen.
If it just will not go far enough, I'd at least use some stiff wire tied through the opening you have just to prevent it from moving forward.
 
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