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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
if you have aluminum strut tower or axle and you are installing new bearings or removeing them and dont want to break or dammage them use a small hand held propane torch to heat up the houing and the bearing will just about drop out or slide in. dont get it too hot,just get it warm enough to let the metal expand a little. and you can also put the bearings in the freezer and let them shrink a little over night. this works and i do it all the time.
 

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I hope this is some good advice because i do not want to send my wheeler to the dealer to replace my wheel bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
its all good

yep, its ok. you dont need a lot of heat and be shure you dont mar up the inside of the housing with a punch. just use common sence and you will be fine. they may be a little hard coming out at first but once you get them started they come out easy. I use a huge block of wood to beat them out on and put them back, so you dont dammage the aluminum tower. most good mechanics know about the heat but few will tell you the secrets. i know cycle shops hate for you to fix your own but at the prices they charge i will find a way. just ask me when you get ready and i will help any way i can. good luck
 

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i get a lot of my bearings out this way ........:cool:
 

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Did my rears on sportsman. Knocked them out with the hammer and punch.

Put the bearings in the freezer over nite. Put the hubs in the oven on 450 for 15 minutes(pre-heat first). Set in sink. Bearings dropped right in then I spayed with cold water to prevent the bearings from heating up. Did this with Ford truck bearing races as well as others.

Yup, just use common sense, especially at $65 a bearing!
 

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if you have aluminum strut tower or axle and you are installing new bearings or removeing them and dont want to break or dammage them use a small hand held propane torch to heat up the houing and the bearing will just about drop out or slide in. dont get it too hot,just get it warm enough to let the metal expand a little. and you can also put the bearings in the freezer and let them shrink a little over night. this works and i do it all the time.
Is there inner and outer bearings on the front strut arm . In some of the parts diagrams ther only seems to be one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1 bearing

yes its one, there are 2 bearings inside the housing, they are 1 unit and are held in place with seals and springs. when you remove the bearing it will come out as one piece and will be replaced as one also.
 

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Bearings and kill switch

So I still haven't got around to replacing them. Do they come out the back side of the strut or the wheel side? I have also noticed that the kill switch is very touchie and shuts down a the littlest movement of the switch .Has this been a problem anyone has encountered.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
wheel side

wheel side and you have to remove the snap ring that holds them in. a good set of snap ring plires is required since they are prety tough. dont let them shoot out and hit you in the eye,saftey glasses are smart and some gloves. the kill switch i dont know about but it sounds like you may have to replace the switch.
 

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yep, its ok. you dont need a lot of heat and be shure you dont mar up the inside of the housing with a punch. just use common sence and you will be fine. they may be a little hard coming out at first but once you get them started they come out easy. I use a huge block of wood to beat them out on and put them back, so you dont dammage the aluminum tower. most good mechanics know about the heat but few will tell you the secrets. i know cycle shops hate for you to fix your own but at the prices they charge i will find a way. just ask me when you get ready and i will help any way i can. good luck
While removing the bearings I found three cut outs in the hub That allows you to place your punch in. I found I just kept working my way around the cut outs Heat does work well and I used a air punch which seemed to work well also.
 
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