Test the VR with the machine running then test the stator legs for resistance and VAC. If that checks out test the harness from the stator to the VR for continuity and shorts between the 3 yellow legs and ground (neg).

 

Electrical is like a different language to me...LOL I'll give er a try and maybe I can find a good youtube video that shows testing of the VR. Thanks!

 

Hi All,

I am new to the forum and need some help. I have worked on my own cars and diesel truck for years, but I am not very familiar with working on ATVs. I bought a 2016 570 a few months back. It ran great for a couple months and then it started idling rough and turning off. One day I got a code on the display for low voltage. I took the battery to a dedicated battery store and it tested good. Based on symptoms and internet research, I next replaced the voltage regulator. The install went well with no issues. It ran beautifully afterwards. I don't have any more than 15 minutes of riding on it after the replacement. BTW, I can see where the wire must have rubbed under the ATV and the previously owned fixed it. I understand that was a common issue with these. They also relocated the connector.

Yesterday, it was back to running rough and then eventually turning off. I don't see any bad wires, but as you know many of them are hidden. Electrical diagnostics are not a strong area for me. What should I look at next? I'd be glad to take it to a good shop if someone knows of a good one in west TN.

Best,

Matt

to the forum

 

View attachment 181983 to the forum View attachment 181982

Thanks!

That's because you can't see it. everyone can see water, oil, fuel leaks that's why they are easy to fix. You just need diagnostic meters to see where the electrical leak is at!

I know and to make matters worse I am a visual learner. I struggle to learn from reading. But, show me something once and I can master it! I appreciate the virtual help though.

 

I started with a simple test... When running, the battery is producing a steady 14.6 volts. Runs rough and the engine light is on and will shut off if I don't feather the throttle. Should I be chasing fuel or spark plug issue? No code on the display. How do you run codes on a four wheeler?

Oil and antifreeze are at normal operating levels. Air filter is good.

ideas?

 

If the battery terminals are tight I would move on to a fuel pressure reading.

Whats that PSI suppose to be FPD218, 58psi????

 

Looked it up. It's 58 PSI. Will test it later today.

 

Test the VR with the machine running then test the stator legs for resistance and VAC. If that checks out test the harness from the stator to the VR for continuity and shorts between the 3 yellow legs and ground (neg).

If the battery terminals are tight I would move on to a fuel pressure reading.

Whats that PSI suppose to be FPD218, 58psi????

So I have 59 PSI fuel pressure. Cycled key several times and it was 59 PSI each time and held there until the pump turned off. I don't have a way to check the PSI when its running. Just because it shows 59 PSI at key cycle, doesn't necessarily mean that I have the correct pressure while running right? There is what appears to be a fusable link near the fuse box and just below left handle bar. Those connections were pretty corroded so I cleaned them up. I was hopeful that was the same problem i used to have on my F250 SD, but no dice. I also cleaned up the ground bar under the fuse box. Still runs the same. Anything else a hack mechanic can try next before paying for help? Is there a fuel pressure regulator external to the fuel tank or is all that in the fuel pump assembly in the tank, which is nearly 2 bills.

Other thoughts, might as well change spark plug?

Also, it never ran rough until the first tank of gas that came with the unit was low. Could i have sucked up some crap?

Continued help appreciated. thanks!

 

Probably fuel pump..They are notorious.

 

Reg is part of the in tank assembly. 59psi reads good to me. I'm thinking bad gas or have you put in fresh?? What's the plug look like?

 

Reg is part of the in tank assembly. 59psi reads good to me. I'm thinking bad gas or have you put in fresh?? What's the plug look like?

Plug was sooty, probably original. I replaced it with a new NGK. I pulled pump and all the gas. Some floaties at the bottom. Pump filter was quite dark. I reinstalled the pump anyway and added new gas. Now the pump turns on with key on sporadically. Still runs like crap. Guess I'll replace the pump.

 

Fit shits and giggles try swapping the EFI relay. That pump filter/sock sounds like it was pretty gunked up. From the pump sick to the plug sounds like some possible contamination. Hope the injector isn't toast.

 

Fit shits and giggles try swapping the EFI relay. That pump filter/sock sounds like it was pretty gunked up. From the pump sick to the plug sounds like some possible contamination. Hope the injector isn't toast.

Should I feel the relay click when I turn the key?

 

Update: installed new quantum fuel pump, replaced gas, and charged battery. Fires up and sounds beautiful but then doesn't want to hold a steady idle and cut out a couple times. Should I rip it around the trails before assuming something is still wrong?

 

What are the actual codes you are getting?

 

What are the actual codes you are getting?

None at the moment.

 

Well hell this is turning into a PIA!!!! No codes is a real kick in the balls!!!

Hell I would still suspect fuel and test the new pump. Then pull the injector and test the spray pattern.

But first you could take it for a quick rip and see if it clears up but probably will turn out to be more of a diag run than anything. If it's stills falling in it's face throw a spark tester on it to get an idea of what kind of spark output your dealing with. Also pulling the new plug for an inspection wouldn't hurt. Problem is things are testing out ok and you have changed some parts but have the same problem and the bike isn't telling you anything to make matters worse.

 

What are the actual codes you are getting?

Update. I let it idle til it gave me a CEL. Codes are 520 194 and 3597. The first has to do with throttle position. I will check into that. The other is for high voltage. Battery tests good and need VR so don't know about that...

 

So it looks like safety/reed switch is sending a bad signal to your ECM. Have you tried adjusting your throttle cable?

 

So it looks like safety/reed switch is sending a bad signal to your ECM. Have you tried adjusting your throttle cable?

I have not yet. There's a little less than 1/4" of play. Tighten it or loosen it?

 

Spec says 1/8", but you sound good enough. Try and get it closer. Other than that there's the ty-wrap fix to prevent the contacts from closing the circuit and killing the ignition.

 

Change the spark plug.

 

Change the spark plug.

I did already. That's back on page 1.

 

@rainmanx I've been bitting my tongue but if the couple suggestions I made a few posts back don't pan out I'm afraid pulling some loom back and inspecting wires may be what's needed.

 

Very well understood by all! Best of Luck to you!

 

I'll see about tightening the cable tomorrow. Meanwhile tonight I'll be praying that it's something that simple!! As a bad coincidence, my 7.3 PSD is sitting in the driveway with a bad TPS ... What are the odds?

 

When it rains it pours!!!

 

On mine the code finally subsided when I had almost zero free play in the throttle. I went through everything, even replacing the cable..Making it almost no free and no more lights over the last 400 miles or so.

Another thing to check--The fuel injector wiring...Mine rubbed and shorted out on the frame...Sometimes the wires come loose in the connector.

Quad-logic has the connector on their site.

I adjusted the cable from where it was too a much tighter position and no effect. There is a noticeable ohm difference when pressing the throttle.

I drove it around and it drives great 90 percent of the time. Light comes on occasionally and throttle massage is needed. Also noticed that if you're on the hammer and left off, it idles down to 1400 rpm. When you get back on it, it's like you're starting at a lower gear. Any idea what that means?

Can u give me an idea of where that injector wire is?

Thx!

 

On my 570, the wires off the injector go about 2 inches to the left, and then into a wire harness. Mine was rubbed through and touching the frame. It seemed as if the wire harness got hot and then was able to be rub through and onto the frame.

 

If I want to check the continuity for the wires going into the TPS where is the other end of those wires?