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So it looks like safety/reed switch is sending a bad signal to your ECM. Have you tried adjusting your throttle cable?
 
Change the spark plug.
 
I have not yet. There's a little less than 1/4" of play. Tighten it or loosen it?
Spec says 1/8", but you sound good enough. Try and get it closer. Other than that there's the ty-wrap fix to prevent the contacts from closing the circuit and killing the ignition.
 
I have not yet. There's a little less than 1/4" of play. Tighten it or loosen it?
On mine the code finally subsided when I had almost zero free play in the throttle. I went through everything, even replacing the cable..Making it almost no free and no more lights over the last 400 miles or so.

Another thing to check--The fuel injector wiring...Mine rubbed and shorted out on the frame...Sometimes the wires come loose in the connector.

Quad-logic has the connector on their site.
 
@rainmanx I've been bitting my tongue but if the couple suggestions I made a few posts back don't pan out I'm afraid pulling some loom back and inspecting wires may be what's needed.
 
When it rains it pours!!!
 
Discussion starter · #31 · (Edited)
On mine the code finally subsided when I had almost zero free play in the throttle. I went through everything, even replacing the cable..Making it almost no free and no more lights over the last 400 miles or so.

Another thing to check--The fuel injector wiring...Mine rubbed and shorted out on the frame...Sometimes the wires come loose in the connector.

Quad-logic has the connector on their site.
I adjusted the cable from where it was too a much tighter position and no effect. There is a noticeable ohm difference when pressing the throttle.

I drove it around and it drives great 90 percent of the time. Light comes on occasionally and throttle massage is needed. Also noticed that if you're on the hammer and left off, it idles down to 1400 rpm. When you get back on it, it's like you're starting at a lower gear. Any idea what that means?

Can u give me an idea of where that injector wire is?

Thx!
 
I adjusted the cable from where it was too a much tighter position and no effect. There is a noticeable ohm difference when pressing the throttle.

I drove it around and it drives great 90 percent of the time. Light comes on occasionally and throttle massage is needed. Also noticed that if you're on the hammer and left off, it idles down to 1400 rpm. When you get back on it, it's like you're starting at a lower gear. Any idea what that means?

Can u give me an idea of where that injector wire is?

Thx!
On my 570, the wires off the injector go about 2 inches to the left, and then into a wire harness. Mine was rubbed through and touching the frame. It seemed as if the wire harness got hot and then was able to be rub through and onto the frame.
 
The wires terminate inside the unit - it is a variable resistor that

Image


It plugs into the wiring harness and ultimately terminates at the ECU - note that the wire numbers correspond to the pin terminal of the ECU that the wire connects to.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
The wires terminate inside the unit - it is a variable resistor that

View attachment 182656

It plugs into the wiring harness and ultimately terminates at the ECU - note that the wire numbers correspond to the pin terminal of the ECU that the wire connects to.

View attachment 182657
I'm having a tough time doing this. Those pin holes are tiny. Orange wire checked out but then I couldn't repeat cause I'm having a hard time keeping a small wire on internal contact. Can't get a response on violet and green. Can I turn key on and check voltage at the sensor terminals as another method or do I need to shop around for the perfect wire to stick in there?
 
Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
Here's an update and I'm hoping to show all that's been done to keep the conversation going. I believe that I've investigated all the suggestions offered and the TPS issue may be solved, but I'm hesitant to say so.

Four wheeler started running rough a few weeks back. Seems to have coincided with a drive in freshly logged woods in combination with low fuel level in the tank of gas that came with the unit. I've only owned it a few months. Don't know the history. Didn't realize it at the time but had engine light for TPS. Since the original problem I have done a bunch. Some stuff is symptom based and some was just upgrades because a part seemed old like the fuel pump and plug. Here's what I originally did:

  • Installed Quantum fuel pump
  • Installed new VR
  • Tested battery at battery store. All good and has 14.5 volts when running
  • checked oil and coolant levels
  • Installed NGK spark plug
  • Pumped out old gas and replaced with new
  • Checked fuses, none were blown.
  • Swapped out EFI relay.
  • Cleaned up ground bar
  • Adjusted throttle cable in all directions. No change noticed until it gets really tight or really loose. No change for the good. The cable moves freely.
  • Peeled back wire looms under handle bar and light area. Found one brown wire that was very bare. Taped it up but no change.

After doing that the symptoms were still CEL for TPS. Will start perfectly when it's cold, but not after it stalled out after a CEL. It will start whether the contacts in the throttle switch are open or closed. Earlier today I fired it up and it idled beautifully for 5 minutes. Hit the throttle and all was well. Then it slowly started idling less smooth. CEL came on and it stalled instantly. I can repeat this every day. Seems like when it gets warm, trouble starts. Does not want to restart after it's stalled out.

So then I:

  • Peeled back wire looms along left side of the unit (wires to throttle and such). Found some small nicks in a brown wire leading to throttle body area. Taped em up.
  • Pulled throttle electrical connector and cleaned it up. Twas quite dirty.
  • Opened throttle body and confirmed proper operation. Position corresponds with throttle position.
  • Checked continuity on the TPS. All was good.
  • Removed injector. Spray seemed ok-ish when I turned the key. I'd say it may be original equipment. Wires leading to injector were AOK. Injector will click and spray when connected to a 9v battery. Resistance was 12.4 ohms.
  • Opened and sprayed many electrical connectors.
  • installed a zip tie between the conductors in the throttle.

I put it back together and it idled nicely for 10 minutes. Revved on it a bit and then took a mile drive over my trails. After 10 minutes it was idling / revving a little off. It still has the high voltage code. 597 I think it was.

Not sure if the TPS is solved... Guess I'll keep driving and see what happens. I'm not putting body panels back on til it's proven to be fixed!

Any ideas on the high voltage?
 
Any ideas on the high voltage?
1. Check your positive battery connections and the one to the terminal block by the fuse panel. My wife's would intermittently flash OVR, and didn't make sense. Discovered the positive cable on the terminal block was loose (from factory).

2. Voltage Regulators-Very notorious on the Sportsman 570 2018 model years and earlier. 2019 has a different regulator and doesn't have the same failure rates.
 
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