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You might want to check that Idle Air motor on the throttle body itself. It could be plugged. Sounds like a corker though. Basically if it's fuel injected you need a few things to have good idle. The crank sensor tells the ECU where to time spark, the TPS tells the ECU in what position the actual throttle plate is. The ECU uses this info from the TPS to tell that IAM Idle air where to be to start and maintain idle. It sounds like the timing ( crank sensor ) is functioning. I would look towards the TPS and the Idle Air both those units are on the throttle body itself. I think these have and adjustable TPS so you'll need to get some info on how to set one. As for the Idle air being poss plugged. You can remove it ( thre s\phillips screws) and clean it out with good carb cleaner. Be sure to spray into the port where it goes back. Then spray some wd40 on the plunger itself. It's Not too complicated. You can do it It's a start anyway
 

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ya hey thanks for the info, I went out and checked the spark plug agian just for thought. when i put a screwdriver into the plug booty and crank the motor i get a good white arc but when i put the spark plug in the plugwire boot and crank it i get a small orange arc? And when i first pulled the spark plug out after a couple cranks and no start it was covered in gas, and soot? Like it was flooded and the plug was fauled out. dont remember plugs arcin orange though gonna try new plug first then if no go i'll try what you were sayin arunninghorsegoeswild preciate the post i'll let you know how it turns out
 

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So for the TPS what is the correct position. Do you happen to know for a 2012 sportsman 850xp h.o? Is it the voltage that needs to be set? I have the code 520194-7stuck throttle, would that have anything to do with the position of the TPS on the throttle body or is it a throttle wire that is pinched or out of place?
 

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running better but

i have a 2006 sportsman 500 efi, used mostly for farm chores. hardly runs for any extended time. the engine starts dies,starts and dies but eventually starts and runs,will not idle well sounds like fuel problem. i drained all the old gas out, put new gas in, replaced fuel filter,replaced air filters,installed new spark plug. i also noticed my oil level was high? from gas or condensate?, drained all the oil and replaced the filter. fuel pressure is 40 pounds. idles much better but not sold the problem is fixed. the light on dash is showing 325.9 any thoughts would be greatly apppriciated jim
 

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I posted on another thread, but thought I'd add to this one since this has good info. My 2005 Ranger XP doesn't have a "check engine" lamp nor any displays, so I don't know if I can get any codes out of the ECU. I went ahead and ordered the T-BAP sensor, got it for $72 including shipping, to see if that is the issue causing it to miss like crazy. In the past, I have cleaned it and that solved my issue, but I've tried that twice now and no dice, still misses like crazy. Yes, I have the factory manual, but there isn't a way to "check" the sensor, other than the dealer software which I don't have of course, and after inspecting the wiring harness, I can't see any obvious problems. Anyone else know if I can pull any codes from the ECU?
 

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Resolution...

Okay folks, finally received the new T-BAP sensor and replaced it. I also replaced the plugs, I wanted to start out fresh on all counts.

Ranger fired right up, not a single issue. This is the best the Ranger has run in a long time!

I purchased the sensor from powersportsplus.com - total with shipping was $72.29 in case anyone else needs one.

Also, just for a FYI, it is SO much easier to just remove the entire air cleaner case and tube up to the FI intake to remove and then replace the sensor, I tried to do it while it was still in the ranger, and that doesn't work.

I ran this Ranger a ton while living in Arizona, and let me tell you, it ran HOT out there. One of the local Polaris mechanics said that this may have fried the T-BAP sensor, and I guess he could be right, all I can say is it's working great now!!
 

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just out of curiousity, would you suppose a fuel gauge not working propely and reading empty cause a 500 efi to spit, sputter, and also die?

so far it is seeming that way to me. if we prop the rod up so it reads fuel, it runs well. we are in the process of finding a new float. after we get it replaced we will be giving it a good ride.
 

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EFI not activating

my 2005 sportsman 800 EFI was wrecked by my little brother a few years ago and i finally got the motivation to order the replacement parts recently and fix it.
prior to any replacement of parts it started and ran like a champ.
i replaced several body panels/racks/etc...all cosmetic. then i realized that the stearing rod was bent alittle, so i ordered it and just put it in today.
the process: remove front rack, remove front body panel, remove fuel tank, replace steering rod and put back together. Easy right...it was but one i got everything put back together it would not start.
normally when i turn the key on you can hear the EFI engage for a second before you start it...it is not doing that now
I took it back apart and inspected everything and seems to be in order but no luck on starting...
Any ideas are much appreciated. thanks Cole
 

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Discussion Starter #30
my 2005 sportsman 800 EFI was wrecked by my little brother a few years ago and i finally got the motivation to order the replacement parts recently and fix it.
prior to any replacement of parts it started and ran like a champ.
i replaced several body panels/racks/etc...all cosmetic. then i realized that the stearing rod was bent alittle, so i ordered it and just put it in today.
the process: remove front rack, remove front body panel, remove fuel tank, replace steering rod and put back together. Easy right...it was but one i got everything put back together it would not start.
normally when i turn the key on you can hear the EFI engage for a second before you start it...it is not doing that now
I took it back apart and inspected everything and seems to be in order but no luck on starting...
Any ideas are much appreciated. thanks Cole
Your in-tank pump isn't getting power. That's the "EFI" sound you usually hear for a couple seconds. I suspect you forgot to plug the 3-wire pigtail back in that is coming from the top of the tank.

Stew
 

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just out of curiousity, would you suppose a fuel gauge not working propely and reading empty cause a 500 efi to spit, sputter, and also die?

so far it is seeming that way to me. if we prop the rod up. o it reads fuel, it runs well. we are in the process of finding a new float. after we get it replaced we will be giving it a good ride.
We ended up finding a broken tps wire. Half wondering if the wire is breaking inside and then seperating when pulled on. Because it was definitely not separated upon fixing the fuel Guage. The fuel guage not working was caused by the foam float being saturated with fuel from where the edge deteriorated and soaked up the gas.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply Stew...you have alot of good stuff on here.

The wire to the in-tank was my first thought, since you can see it from the front access panel below the headlight pod i thought maybe when i put the tank back in it got pinched at the rop of the tank......thats when i tore it apart and all is good.
Upon further looking i saw that the 2 relays nest to the ECU had wiggled out about an 1/8 or so and there is a two prong plug that plugs into a stationary connection just to the right and below the relays (don't know what it is for)
Anyways pushed in the relays tight and plugged in the 2 prong and fire up no problem.

Thanks for your info and take care.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Nice fix. Glad it was that easy. Enjoy your ride!

Stew
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Probably need to replace all the brake fluid. There's not that much and you will purge the air and bleed them in the process. The rear brake pedal, which I hardly ever use, can be tricky because it has a tendency to suck air into the line when bleeding it. There's a technique to it but I haven't actually tried it on mine so you will need to search for the specifics.

Stew
 

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Question 550 EPI Sports,man

2012 Sportsman 550 EPI
Rode Hatfield & McCoy this past week (dusty, muddy conditions)

Now she doesn't start. It will turn over and I have spark but it wont fire. (replaced air filter, and new plug as well)

Should I check all sensors? I pulled the TMAp sensor and cleaned it ... nothing. Do I check and clean connections? Can I use WD40 to clean connections with? Please Help!

:hmmm:
 

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On whatever you need to clean, then coat with dielectric grease. You asked if you could use wd40, contact cleaner is a much better option.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
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