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Discussion Starter #1
For about a month my Scrambler won't start on its own without some throttle added while cranking. I have to keep the throttle on for about 2-3 minutes until i can finally let off and it will idle on its own.
It's running rough. Spits and sputters and sounds like it wants to die.

It's sitting at the dealer right now, and they just told me that I have very bad compression. They have a call in to Polaris.

Dealer is suggesting that water has entered the machine.

Anyone shine any light on this?
 

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Mine did what you are describing a month ago, all I did was change plugs and it runs great again. Hope you get it resolved without the hassle of a new engine. You still in warranty? If the dealer is saying water intake then they are preparing to deny the warranty claim, sounds to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mine did what you are describing a month ago, all I did was change plugs and it runs great again. Hope you get it resolved without the hassle of a new engine. You still in warranty? If the dealer is saying water intake then they are preparing to deny the warranty claim, sounds to me.
I am out of warranty. I bought it Jan 11th 2013
 

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I had a somewhat similar scenario with my Sportsman. I changed to the NGK plugs and adjusted my throttle cable at the bars and at the throttle body. So far, so good. Mine was out of warranty too.

FYI - the manual says not to adjust the "tamper proof" idling set screw, but I am pretty sure that is was fixed mine. The dealer said it because of emissions that the manual says that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My biggest issue is that the dealer looks at the mods, especially the snorkel and has assumed water damage right away
 

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idling set screws

Be careful when adjusting the 'tamper proof' idling set screws. They are usually pretty sharp and the tips can break off if tighten too hard. On the bikes I had they were set to 5/8" turn out from factory. Don't know what they are on ATV's.
 

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Be careful when adjusting the 'tamper proof' idling set screws. They are usually pretty sharp and the tips can break off if tighten too hard. On the bikes I had they were set to 5/8" turn out from factory. Don't know what they are on ATV's.
So sorry :unknw: I meant the throttle stop screw. I have a picture of it with the warning message from the manual.
 

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When riding my friends Sportsman 500, had similar symptoms. Had to keep a thumb on the throttle in order for it to start and stay running. Turned out to be the throttle cable pulled to tight. Adjusted the slack, added a cable tie to keep it that way and it ran fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
just an update, it's been at the dealer for over a week now, and they don't know what's up yet. Fortunately for me, I have a great dealer. Every suggestion that you guys have thrown in he's had checked, but nothing has fixed it yet.
What I Do know is that he checked compression and it's bad. they are installing a new TPS today, and doing a leak test.
 

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if compression is bad I would start by checking valve gaps and if its fine tead down the engine, bad compression mean mechanical problem... or timing like said

how many miles on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
if compression is bad I would start by checking valve gaps and if its fine tead down the engine, bad compression mean mechanical problem... or timing like said

how many miles on it?
there is 800km's on the bike, it's just 1 year old.
My dealer is doing exactly that today.
this is new to me, never had issues with machines. But to me at 800km's? This i would have expected on a 5 year old machine.
The real question i have, if it turns out to be valves or timing, what did I do to cause this?
 

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if compression is bad I would start by checking valve gaps and if its fine tead down the engine, bad compression mean mechanical problem... or timing like said

how many miles on it?
there is 800km's on the bike, it's just 1 year old.
My dealer is doing exactly that today.
this is new to me, never had issues with machines. But to me at 800km's? This i would have expected on a 5 year old machine.
The real question i have, if it turns out to be valves or timing, what did I do to cause this?
Water or dirt could have get in it, have you check the air filter and air box? Or a defect somewhere.

These engines are solid, mine have 7000km of high rpm abuse and alot of rev limiter popping
 

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Discussion Starter #15
They are doing a leak test today to find out what if anything got in and hopefully where it got in. Last time i was in the air box, it was sealed. I sealed it up with silicone, and do each time I'm in the air box.
I only check the air box every few weeks though, so who knows.
Here is a picture of the last time it ran well. I'm willing to bet that it was on this day that my problems began. It never rode well after this day.
 

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You said you have a good dealer. Let em just fixit unless cost is a problem. If you are mechanical, pop out the engine and send it out.
Maybe Ridinagain does engine work.
 

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Hydraulic lifters, so no valve adjustment. Unless it's a collapsed lifter it's going to be a fairly significant repair if they have to go deeper. I do lots of engine work, unfortunately it's never cheap.
 
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