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the stator is what sends the pulse to your coil it is under the magneto cover go to bikebandit.com and look at the diogram u will need a voltage metter to test it
 

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I would check the coil also. They will run fine cold, but when they get hot they'll break down and not work. Something to look at anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Checking Coil & Stator

I have fire on the plug at all times, even when it will not crank. I think we have it isolated to some type of a fuel problem...as I am not getting fuel out of the hose at the injector when these problems occur.
This thing just ran for 3 days wiothout a single hitch and it is now back to its old tricks.. Rode off about 1-1/2 miles, stopped the engien to talk to some people and it would not fire again to save your soul...engine turned over well, etc...
 

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Just a thougt:
I had similar problem long time ago in one car. After months of tests, one new fuel pump, new fuel filter... It turned out to be a dirty fuel tank. It had a tiny crack and water and mud would get into it. Took the tank off, welded the crack and washed it with jet washer inside. Left it to dry for 2 days, installed it, cleaned all fuel lines, new fuel filter, fuel pump cleaned, fresh fuel and have never had the problem again with it.
I don't know, just a thought...
 

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take front plastic off, start at ign switch and remove all wiring from harness, they have the wiring too tight around steering stem and it tends to pull wires in two as you turn, can you hear fuel pump cycle when you turn the key on?with front plastic off, you can pretty much look at all wiring, follow it as far as you can. have to cut tie wraps off of harness to get wiring out, but those are easy to replace .
 

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Discussion Starter #26
BOSNJO: Many thanks for this thought but this is one of the first things we thought about. Here it is very easy to get bad fuel with trash in it, so we are very aware of this possibility..not only checking the tank and filter but also changing the fuel completely several times.
RUSS C: I will get the guys to take a closer look at this Monday afternoon. We previously found bad wiring on this machine and repaired it which went to some of the sensors.
 

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Here is a simple test for you. Remove he exhaust springs that hold the pipe into the muffler thus allowing more flow through. Polaris quads are known to run rich and have an exhaust restriction issue. My 800 was doing the same thing and i removed the springs and voila it works fine. By the way your machine may be setting those codes because it was shut down when moving. it takes longer for the power to disipate thus throwing the codes.

complements of your;
Friendly neigboorhood mechanic.
 

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I would be careful with WD-40 on the electrical connectors and parts. Over time it attracts moisture. I wish I knew the answer to your problem but I did not want you adding to the problem or creating a new problem at a later time.
 

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the best thing for all electrical connections fo sealing and anti corrosion is di-electric grease better known as silicone lube. it is an xtend product. They recommend this when you snorkel your quad as well.

complements of your;
friendly neighbourhood mechanic
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Many thakns but we have isolated the problem to be electrical for certain. I should have new relays by the weekend to install and at the same time we are going to open her up and check all of the wiring harnesses for faults. If this does not do it, then the Black Box is next I guess. Yes, the machine shut-dwon while running on the road but we had the battery removed for mor than an hour and I thought that the codes would have been erased in that period of time...If you recommend more, I can take it our for overnight.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks for this info. I have silicone lube in abundance and I will redo all of the electrical connections.
 

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I have a 2005 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI that I recently picked up used. I am having similar issues as you were having Ron. What was the final resolution to this issue? I am very curious.
 
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