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2010 Sportsman 550 XP
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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks for any help that you can provide.

I have a Polaris 550 2010 XP, I only use it to snow plow.
Battery of what I know is good, I don't know how old it is, I have the Polaris for 1 year now, but never had any issues to start, and I keep it on a battery maintainer between the times I uses it.

It goes really well and I love it except that sometimes I get the code 102-3 High Voltage for the MAP sensor than the check lights goes ON.
I usually don't really do any case about it, I stop the engine, restart it seconds later and the check engine disappear.

Except the other day, I was snow plowing, and the engine completly stopped... Restarted it seconds later, code the code 102-3.
20 minutes later, same thing, engine stopped. Same code...

I usually have to go in the street to move snow, and that time, it decided to stop straight in the middle of the road, when I want to restart it, NO BATTERY, nothing on the screen... DEAD. 馃槱馃槄

Started to try to pull it out of there, tried again with the key, the battery came back ON but I saw that the battery did RESET, time was displaying midnight...
Than I was able to continue one and finish to snow plow.. without going back in the street 馃槒

I decided to clean the battery connectors, clean the MAP sensor and but it back ON.

So story short: Could the 102-3 code make a battery completly stop working? Any idea what can cause this.
I didn't happened to me yet again, but I'm kinda worry now when going in the street with it 馃槀

Thanks.
 

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What Trailrider68 is refering to is most people use a wall timer for a few hrs a day and plug the battery tender into it.
 

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2010 Sportsman 550 XP
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Discussion Starter #6
Ok good idea thanks !! I'll set a wall timer.

I know that it's supposed to stop charging when full as it's an intelligent charger, but since that happened, so stopped leaving it on all the time.

I used the Polaris yesterday and got the same code tho 102-3 High voltage MAP sensor. I guess it might the defect, but the engine didn't stalled and the battery didn't stopped working...

I'm kinda confused.
Maybe I should replace the battery and the MAP sensor..
 

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Its normally the wiring rubbed through for the MAP Sensor just down from the plug, check that first
 

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2010 Sportsman 550 XP
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info! When I cleaned it with "SensorKleen" for MAF sensor I haven't seen anything loose or damaged in the wiring but I'll double check tonight.

Do you guys think that the MAP Sensor could cause the battery to stop working?
 

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MAP sensor has nothing to do with charging the battery
 

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Also chk your voltage at the battery while the machine is running. Rev the engine and hold it through the rpm range at 1000-5000. Look for any over voltage readings 15+VDC. Normally the voltage should read 13.5-14.5VDC.

Also you can leave a "battery tender" on indefinitely. No need for a timer IF you have what is referred to as a "float" charger. Apposed to a "trickle" charger. A float charger will turn itself off when the charge of the battery is complete. Where a trickle charger is sending straight current at a constant rate.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
MAP sensor has nothing to do with charging the battery
Yep thanks I get this, I was just wondering if a faulty MAP sensor could cause an engine to stall and/or cause battery failures. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also chk your voltage at the battery while the machine is running. Rev the engine and hold it through the rpm range at 1000-5000. Look for any over voltage readings 15+VDC. Normally the voltage should read 13.5-14.5VDC.

Also you can leave a "battery tender" on indefinitely. No need for a timer IF you have what is referred to as a "float" charger. Apposed to a "trickle" charger. A float charger will turn itself off when the charge of the battery is complete. Where a trickle charger is sending straight current at a constant rate.
Ok thanks for your help. I guess mine is most likely a "float" charger.

Voltage when I run is always at 14.2V -14.4V without lights ON, or heat handles ON..
When using the winch it goes down around to 13.3V and it goes back to the 14.2V stage..
 

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Ok so looks like the charging system is working. All I can "ASSUME" is the battery is getting drawn down and causing blip in the matrix as low voltage things do on electronically controlled vehicles. It may be time for a quality AGM battery upgrade.

Also you do have a float charger as it states in the description it prevents over charging.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Ok so looks like the charging system is working. All I can "ASSUME" is the battery is getting drawn down and causing blip in the matrix as low voltage things do on electronically controlled vehicles. It may be time for a quality AGM battery upgrade.

Also you do have a float charger as it states in the description it prevents over charging.
Thanks again for your help.

What I use is a 1.5 amp "Battery charger and maintainer."
They claim: Built-in safety protections include reverse polarity, short circuit, open circuit, spark-proof, overheat, overcurrent and overcharge.
I guess it is correct ?..

I don't know how old is the battery so I guess you are right, I'll go this evening at the battery shop to buy a good new AGM battery and at the same time see if they have any "NOCO Genius 1amp ". I think they are the best for maintaining battery.
 

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Thanks again for your help.

What I use is a 1.5 amp "Battery charger and maintainer."
They claim: Built-in safety protections include reverse polarity, short circuit, open circuit, spark-proof, overheat, overcurrent and overcharge.
I guess it is correct ?..

I don't know how old is the battery so I guess you are right, I'll go this evening at the battery shop to buy a good new AGM battery and at the same time see if they have any "NOCO Genius 1amp ". I think they are the best for maintaining battery.
Sounds good let us know how you make out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I went to the battery shop and the guy tested my battery. it appears that it's totally fine, it hold the charge well etc...
It is already a AGM battery, a YUASA.
So I came back home and plugged back the battery.

I saw that even when I tight the bolt to the max, the negative wires were still able to move around. They were kinda.. loose. 馃槺
I added a clamping o-ring with with the bolt to remove some space and now they can't move at all.
I suppose that because the wires were loose, the battery was maybe loosing the connection.. Feel so stupid but I never remarked this.. :whistle:

For the MAP Sensor code 102-3 well, maybe it's just time to replace it at some point. (But I have this random code since day 1 and never was a big trouble, it resolves by itself)

I used the Polaris again this evening and didn't stalled or got a battery disconnection..
Hope this will solve it.. I'll keep you updated if it ever happens again.

Thanks for your help guys. 馃檹
 

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that loose negative would be enough to cause all those electrical nightmares I wouldn't replace the map sensor until it either acts up again or gives you trouble that loose ground could have been causing it all along
 
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^^^^^^^Agreed with FPD!!!!

Glad you got it worked out. Good luck!!!
 

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WOW that's a first
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Thanks again for your help.

What I use is a 1.5 amp "Battery charger and maintainer."
They claim: Built-in safety protections include reverse polarity, short circuit, open circuit, spark-proof, overheat, overcurrent and overcharge.
I guess it is correct ?..

I don't know how old is the battery so I guess you are right, I'll go this evening at the battery shop to buy a good new AGM battery and at the same time see if they have any "NOCO Genius 1amp ". I think they are the best for maintaining battery.

Battery Tender Jr. rated at 750ma aka .75 amp a better option and it has a automatic float mode and can be hard wired in.
 
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