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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a 2001 sportsman 500, a while back it popped all 3 headlight bulbs. I put new bulbs in, took them out to, as well as the reverse/neutral lights. I put my fluke on it, voltage is rapidly jumping from 6 volts to pegging my meter (75+ volts). I replaced the rectifier. Same thing still going on. Can't seem to find anyone else online asking about a similar problem, so here I am! Any thoughts? I figure if the stator is bad, I shouldn't have any or weak voltage. Flywheel maybe? I don't wanna toss a bunch of money at parts guessing where the problem is. Maybe a bad rectifier? Was running 13.6 volts at first on this one then got erratic after 10 or 20 minutes of riding. Now sometimes it runs fine other times it's erratic, have to use pull cord to start as it's toasted the battery to.

Thanks!
Kevin
 

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Test the stator for a short to ground - sounds like AC voltage riding on the DC due to back feeding through ground - AC output of the alternator is typically upwards of 95 volts at 6000 RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So now I have no voltage at all, most of the time, 4x4 don't work, rad fan don't work. But engine runs fine starts easily with pull cord. But only have 2 to 4 volts a.c. on the yellow and yellow with red wires from the stator and both show resistance when checking ohms to chassis. So must be bad stator, just seems weird that it runs perfectly fine other than absolutely no electrical power besides spark!!!

Thanks for the input!!
Kevin
 

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Ok another update, paying closer attention, only about .6mili ohms resistance on yellow to chassis and yellow with red to chassis. Yellow has about 13 volts now a.c. At idle, climbs with throttle. Thks is with rectifier unhooked. I have .4 ohms between yellow and yellow with red.
 

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Ignition is separate from the charging system and it does not need a battery to run, but running with no battery will cause the lights to burn out even if the charging system is 100%. If you measure any resistance (not open loop) to ground on either the yellow or yel/red wire, the charging system part of the stator is bad while the ignition part is fine.

Yes, you will still get AC voltage when the rectifier is unhooked and with a shorted stator, you will have voltage wire to wire also wire to chassis - when the stator is not shorted to ground, you should have AC voltage wire to wire only - zero wire to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ignition is separate from the charging system and it does not need a battery to run, but running with no battery will cause the lights to burn out even if the charging system is 100%. If you measure any resistance (not open loop) to ground on either the yellow or yel/red wire, the charging system part of the stator is bad while the ignition part is fine.

Yes, you will still get AC voltage when the rectifier is unhooked and with a shorted stator, you will have voltage wire to wire also wire to chassis - when the stator is not shorted to ground, you should have AC voltage wire to wire only - zero wire to ground.
thanks!! That stator is where I was figuring the problem was after the last testing. Just need to find cash to buy one now. Thanks again
 
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