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My '08 800 is a blast to ride. I absolutely love it, however, the heat coming off of the exhaust is insane. It's not melting plastic but it is definitely hotter on the exhaust side of the machine.

Would it hurt anything to wrap at least the front part of the exhaust in "header tape?" I'm not sure how it would hold up constantly getting wet and don't mind replacing it every couple years if necessary but don't want to push heat down the line and have issues further back.

Has anyone tried this before?
 

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I've run wrap on my 06 for several years and it helps some but isn't very durable. I've seen were some guys send them out to have them ceramic coated.
I'm in the process of a complete rebuild and make over of my old 800 since I have something else to ride now. I've been looking at Eastwood high temp ceramic coating while I have the machine all apart. The coating is made for the INSIDE of headers and pipes and is applied with a 360* nozzle and hose. Its supposed to substantially reduce heat transfer to the outside of the metal. It can also be used on the outside according to Eastwood but is specifically intended for inside the pipe.
I think I'm going to do that to mine as part of the make over. I'm still undecided if I'll also use it outside or just use their regular high temp stuff on the outside.
Maybe some of these guys who've actually done it or had it done will chime in with comments???

Here's a link:
https://www.eastwood.com/paints/hi-temp-engine-paints.html

LOL, had to edit. Had the wrong link
 

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Another issue with the header wrap aside from it not holding up to Offroading conditions is it significantly reduces the pipes life. Basically roots them fast. Ceramic coating inside and out is the way to go.

Polman you're making me second guess whether or not I should coat mine.
 

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Another issue with the header wrap aside from it not holding up to Offroading conditions is it significantly reduces the pipes life. Basically roots them fast. Ceramic coating inside and out is the way to go.

Polman you're making me second guess whether or not I should coat mine.
Yeah, exhaust heat is a major problem with the 800s. I'm going to do something along those lines since I have it all apart anyway. Do you some reading on Eastwood's site. You need to use the rust dissolver to prep them before coating. There's also other types of exhaust treatments like high temp powder coats and things I think. I'm still sorta researching options right now. I haven't looked into any professionally done options yet. I'm hoping some of the car racing guys or others with real world experience might speak up and comment.
Looks like your machine has the two-into-one manifold and single silencer. Mine has a dual pipe header that goes into one about midway back beside the seat with dual silencers. I've often wondered what the pros and cons are of the two different types of exhaust other than cost and weight savings??
How about it latebird… care to comment?
 

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I had a Can-Am and they were great for running hot. Problem was Can-AM did not bring the fan on till temp reached 195 and off at 180. We installed temp controller units to bring the fan on at 140 and no more problems of heat in the exhaust system.
 

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I had a Can-Am and they were great for running hot. Problem was Can-AM did not bring the fan on till temp reached 195 and off at 180. We installed temp controller units to bring the fan on at 140 and no more problems of heat in the exhaust system.
I take it from your reply that you've never ridden a Sportsman 800 in hot weather... It's when the fan kicks on forcing the heat across the header and out the side of the plastics on your right leg that it get's so bad you have move your foot up on the fender or it'll burst into flames lol. :firedevil:
Feels great in the winter but sucks in the summer.
You also have to be careful when wearing a rain suit or you'll melt the leg off before you notice it... Don't ask me how I know this lol
 

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I had a Can-Am and they were great for running hot. Problem was Can-AM did not bring the fan on till temp reached 195 and off at 180. We installed temp controller units to bring the fan on at 140 and no more problems of heat in the exhaust system.
I take it from your reply that you've never ridden a Sportsman 800 in hot weather... It's when the fan kicks on forcing the heat across the header and out the side of the plastics on your right leg that it get's so bad you have move your foot up on the fender or it'll burst into flames lol. :firedevil:
Feels great in the winter but sucks in the summer.
You also have to be careful when wearing a rain suit or you'll melt the leg off before you notice it... Don't ask me how I know this lol

I take it from your reply that you've never ridden a CanAm 650 or 850. CanAm left the engine temp to get up to 195 before they brought the fan on. You were blowing 195-degree air across your leg. When you brought the fan on at 140 degrees the temp was reduced and when mixed with the amban air temp the problem was gone.
There were many that thought like you but they soon learned and they also started to reduce the engine temp.
Get rid of the hight temp and no need for rap and other makeshift ideas.
 

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So I had the heat issue on my 800 and dealt with it. Until I started to get the "HOT" light lamp on the display. This was occuring in a more consistent basis and cleaning the rad was having less and less of an effect. Fortunately I knew it was the radiator so I went and ordered up a SuperATV rad. Installed it and never had any heat issues again.
 

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So I had the heat issue on my 800 and dealt with it. Until I started to get the "HOT" light lamp on the display. This was occuring in a more consistent basis and cleaning the rad was having less and less of an effect. Fortunately I knew it was the radiator so I went and ordered up a SuperATV rad. Installed it and never had any heat issues again.
Hmm, ok you guys got my attention now. I'm always open to learning new ways to solve a problem. I never had any problems with the engine overheating it was always just the exhaust heat blowing on your leg when the fan was running that was a problem. So you guys are saying if I just cool the engine better with more fan, better radiator etc. that it will stop or significantly reduce the exhaust heat on your right leg blowing out the opening in the side plastic?
If that's the case I might have to rethink my approach to the issue.
 

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So I had the heat issue on my 800 and dealt with it. Until I started to get the "HOT" light lamp on the display. This was occuring in a more consistent basis and cleaning the rad was having less and less of an effect. Fortunately I knew it was the radiator so I went and ordered up a SuperATV rad. Installed it and never had any heat issues again.
Hmm, ok you guys got my attention now. I'm always open to learning new ways to solve a problem. I never had any problems with the engine overheating it was always just the exhaust heat blowing on your leg when the fan was running that was a problem. So you guys are saying if I just cool the engine better with more fan, better radiator etc. that it will stop or significantly reduce the exhaust heat on your right leg blowing out the opening in the side plastic?
If that's the case I might have to rethink my approach to the issue.

For those riding CA the problem was not that they were overheating; instead, CA needed the engine to run at 195 to pass US emissions. Contrary to what the racers felt the hotter engines also performed better.
Most CA riders were also MUDDERS so their rads did not perform like a new one and there is NO bringing them back. You can hose the rad clean but you will never get that mud film off that acts as installation. The rads in mot cases were working but not as good as they should. I went to a temp controller with a probe and brought the water temp down to 140 as opposed to 195. As I recall CA had the fan come on at 195 and turned off at 180. The engine ran cooler and this helped bring the exhaust temp down some. But the big difference was the water temp that was blowing across your leg was far less. The 140 water temp along with the cool ambiance air temp did the trick.
The interesting part was those ridding in the southern states where the air temps were nearing 100 they wanted to ride wearing shorts which placed the high exhaust temp on there bare leg.
The controller that we used came from most auto part stores. The controllers were being used by the off-road jeepers for the same reason.
CA had an even worst problem. The hight temps were melting the plastic and seats.
After the temp change, I did a lot of performance testing of my bike. I found that the cooler engine delivers more power as opposed to less.
When I first got my 15 850 SP I checked the fan on and off temp. This was easy with the PoPo because the dash has an engine temp readout. I on longer remember the temp but it is far below 190. More like 165 or less for the high side.
 

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So I had the heat issue on my 800 and dealt with it. Until I started to get the "HOT" light lamp on the display. This was occuring in a more consistent basis and cleaning the rad was having less and less of an effect. Fortunately I knew it was the radiator so I went and ordered up a SuperATV rad. Installed it and never had any heat issues again.
Hmm, ok you guys got my attention now. I'm always open to learning new ways to solve a problem. I never had any problems with the engine overheating it was always just the exhaust heat blowing on your leg when the fan was running that was a problem. So you guys are saying if I just cool the engine better with more fan, better radiator etc. that it will stop or significantly reduce the exhaust heat on your right leg blowing out the opening in the side plastic?
If that's the case I might have to rethink my approach to the issue.

Yes sir!!!! Along with a more efficient cooling system like my rad upgrade example and the increased fan duration by increasing fan shut down temp and decreasing fan start up temp as pointed out by PoPo3. You can also decrease engine operating temps by installing a lower temp thermostat. This works twofold with an electronically controlled motor. One is the obvious there is a specific temp drop in engine operating temps set by the t-stat and the subsequent increase in fuel delivery essentially by tricking the ECM. One has to be careful as to much of a temp drop will cause a unwanted fuel to air ratio producing unburnt fuel in the combustion chamber leading to premature engine wear.
 

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I'll have to look into that PoPo. The trouble with the older Polaris twins is also that the engine sits straight ahead in the frame like a motorcycle which means the exhaust header comes out the front and wraps around to the right side around the engine only about 6-8" away from your ankle and then runs right up through under your right leg. You are basically sitting right on top of the exhaust pipe. It's only separated from your leg by a piece of plastic with some tin foil on the back of it. There is a heat shield but it still gets extremely hot. It'll melt the plastic, seat bottom and whatever else is close by.
The newer twins with the sideways mounted engine don't have that issue.
 

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So I had the heat issue on my 800 and dealt with it. Until I started to get the "HOT" light lamp on the display. This was occuring in a more consistent basis and cleaning the rad was having less and less of an effect. Fortunately I knew it was the radiator so I went and ordered up a SuperATV rad. Installed it and never had any heat issues again.
Hmm, ok you guys got my attention now. I'm always open to learning new ways to solve a problem. I never had any problems with the engine overheating it was always just the exhaust heat blowing on your leg when the fan was running that was a problem. So you guys are saying if I just cool the engine better with more fan, better radiator etc. that it will stop or significantly reduce the exhaust heat on your right leg blowing out the opening in the side plastic?
If that's the case I might have to rethink my approach to the issue.

Yes sir!!!! Along with a more efficient cooling system like my rad upgrade example and the increased fan duration by increasing fan shut down temp and decreasing fan start up temp as pointed out by PoPo3. You can also decrease engine operating temps by installing a lower temp thermostat. This works twofold with an electronically controlled motor. One is the obvious there is a specific temp drop in engine operating temps set by the t-stat and the subsequent increase in fuel delivery essentially by tricking the ECM. One has to be careful as to much of a temp drop will cause a unwanted fuel to air ratio producing unburnt fuel in the combustion chamber leading to premature engine wear.

The CA owners tried many things but the rad temp was the only true fix. Someone in Canada found a snowmobile thermostat that was 140 degrees. He cut it down so it would fit in the ATV engine. In fact, he had everyone believing this was the answer and he started making the change to the stats and was selling them online like mad. The problem is he did lower the engine temp but it did no good for the water temp. And this was the real problem. Some had you removing the stat. Then others removed the stat and placed a tin plate with a hole to allow more coolant to flow through. I no longer can remember the different ways they tried to remedy the problem. The funny thing they fell for everything but lowering the water temp. The biggest argument was if you ran the fan you would wear it out shortly. And yet we run the fan in our cars 100% when you had city driving. In fact, the avt now worked like your car. When you were running high speeds (in my case 35MPH+) the fan was not needed.
 

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You guys have persuaded me to definitely look at this aspect of the 800 heat issue while doing my restoration. I guess I'll be working a cooler running engine into my makeover of the old beast as well.

PoPo, you got any info handy about the temp controller you were using? Where to get one and how it is installed on the machine? Over the years I've addressed most all the inherent design flaws with the suspension, frame and other things on this old beast and would like to try to mitigate the heat problem while I'm restoring it.
Thanks!
 

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Ok PoPo, it just occurred to me that by "temp controller" you're talking about a fan switch in the radiator with a lower/wider temp range... On and off at lower temps... Is that correct?
LOL, the term "temperature controller" had me imagining some sort of add-on gizmo incorporated into the system. I think I got it now. :wink
I'm a little slow sometimes lol.
 

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Ok PoPo, it just occurred to me that by "temp controller" you're talking about a fan switch in the radiator with a lower/wider temp range... On and off at lower temps... Is that correct?
LOL, the term "temperature controller" had me imagining some sort of add-on gizmo incorporated into the system. I think I got it now. :wink
I'm a little slow sometimes lol.

This is what I'm talking about:


Hayden Electric Fan Adjustable Thermostat Kits 3653

Hayden Electric Fan Controls 3654

Look around the internet. All are auto parts stores carried them because the jeepers used them.

I'm not seeing ones that come down to 140. You can set the temp higher than 140 if you want but we found that 140 worked the best.

ones with the probe that went in between the fins at the rad inlet work best. The units that have a bulb meant you needed to cut into the rad inlet hose.

When the water temp goes above 140 the fan turns on and they had a set differential to turn the fan off.

Search around there are many manufacturers that make the units. And price ranged from $30/or $40 to $200 but all did the same thing. The high end were electronic

Some riders went the cheap way and did it manually. Installed a simple switch on the dash and turned the switch on when their foot got hot. You could try this just to see how well it works on a PoPo. Would only cost the price of a switch. Keep in mind since are autos went with the sideway engine they all have electric fans. When your driving in the city slow driving the fan runs near 100%. And when is the last time you hear of people replacing the fan?
 

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Thanks PoPo, I had already found them on Summit racing website.
Hayden has digital model 3655 that's sealed and adjustable from 120-210. No relays or points to fail and the description says it actually varies fan speed according to demand rather than a simple on/off which is supposed to be easier on the fan and other electronics.
There's several other brands/models that adjust from 104 to 150 up. Most all use relays but think I'm liking the sealed digital job. I may also just match up the threads and use a screw in probe to replace the OEM radiator switch for a cleaner install.
It all sounds logical I'd just never really considered trying to lower the engine overall temp to cut the exhaust heat problem... We'll see
I'll be trying this based on your recommendation when I go back together with the machine but I've got bigger fish to fry right now with the rebuild.
 

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Like I said before you could do the manual switch. Wire from bat to switch to fan on wire. If you are not satisfied you are out only same time.

I will be leaving Wednesday for the Richfield, UT Jamboree. Before the jamboree, we will do a 3-day ride at exit 91MM on I-70 and go south 4 miles. Then on to Richfield for 5-day ride. AT jamboree we most offen do our own rides. Have been doing the jamboree since 2000. This may be the last year for that. We stay at the KOA. A3 spot. After the Jamboree, we go to Troy and ride there for 3 days. We want to get on the Great Western trail and go south.

By the time we return home the bikes will have traveled 600+ miles. :smile

Like I said some people talk about riding and then there are those that RIDE :eek
 

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No, I won't be rigging up a manual switch. Running it cooler the cheapest way possible is not the goal. If it were, I'd just jumper the switch so the fan would run anytime the key was on. I want the machine to run within a predetermined temperature range depending on the settings I choose. If I'm gonna run it cooler it'll be with a unit cleanly incorporated into the system that I can dial in just where I want it to run and forget it.
The easiest way would be if I can find a lower temperature range fan switch to replace the OEM. I'm still researching options...
Anybody know where I might find something like a 160 on 140 off switch to replace the OEM?
 
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