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Discussion Starter #1
So, I have 96 hrs on my '09 850xp and want to change all the fluids. I have ordered everything I need and stuck with the Polaris fluids. My questions are

1) The angle drive fluid is for the rear end?

2) The demand drive plus is for the front end?

I am also having some trouble with it shifting now, doesn't seem to want to swap gears as easy as it used to. Time for a new belt? or is there another culprit i should look for?

Thanks,
 

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You are correct on the fluids. The shift linkage may need a little lubrication as well. Mine starts to shift hard after being submerged in goo and washed and put away for a week or two.
 

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Welcome to the board!:med:
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the quick response. I not really sold on the shift linkage needing lubricating though. After doing some more reading, I really get the sense that maybe my clutch is border line engaging and not allowing it to shift. With the engine off, it shifts so smooth but when running it feels as though the gears aren't aligning properly. I can goose it, let it get back to idle and then it might shift great. If not, the second time I goose it, it will.

Next question though, what air filter is recommended? I though k&n was the king until reading around on this forum. Then I started hearing everyone talk about Uni but then saw pics of a guys intake that was just plain nasty running a Uni. Any other recommendations?
 

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What is your RPM at idle? I had an issue recently where it was hard to shift. Turns out the RPM was above the 1150-1200 range for some reason and the clutch was engaging.

Mark
 

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CVT's don't actually shift. They are Continually Variable Transmissions. They will engage once the shift lever is moved into a gear and adequate rpm is added. Once engaged the plates come together and back apart which moves the belt into different configurations (example: picture a smaller sprocket or larger sprocket) which causes the ATV to go faster or slower depending on the RPM. The only shifting is the the P, N, R, L, H and that lever might need lubrication if it's not moving well. Also, as stated if your idle RPM is too high it might be causing the clutch to engage prematurely when changing gears which would make shifting from Neutral, High, Low, Reverse, Park difficult / jerky but could also damage your transmission. The max RPM should be 1200 at idle. You should always allow your ATV to warm up for a few minutes at idle, then shift into Low and drive around gently for a couple of minutes to warm up the belt. Then you can shift into High gear and give her hell. If you replace the belt I always recommend that you take it easy (no throttle hammering) for at least a couple of hours so the belt and the plates have time to get to know each other.
 

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Mine is 1180. As for the shifting.. there are two nylon thrust washers on both sides of the primary one way bearing that wear over time changing the clearance of the belt causing the primary to turn at idle . I've always wondered why they would use nylon that wears and not a metal one that would last longer. As mine gets worse I'm changing them out to the stainless ones to cure the polaris rock and shift :)

It's just a thang
 

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Just looked in the manual and the idle says 1200 rpms +/- 50 rpms so you can be anywhere from 1150 to 1250 according to the manual without issue. Mine jumps from 1180 to 1200 on the digitial display. However, if you have something worn as mscldawg stated it could cause issue at lower rpm. I would guess at 96 hours you should not have anything worn. I almost smoked my belt by trying to get out of heavy sand in High gear once. I smelled rubber and immediatly stopped and shut her down. Let it cool a bit and then shifted into low and I was back in business. I don't forget to shift into Low anymore as needed!
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry its taken so long to reply. Yes, i do believe my idle speed may be to high. I haven't had time to check though as I've been pretty busy and leaving town this weekend as well. I have received all of my fluids and filters (ended up going with K&N and Outerwears). When i get back I will start disassembling, inspection and maintenance. I will also check my idle speed but I'm pretty sure my air filter is pretty stopped up after my last ride in some seriously dusty conditions. This could cause it to run a little lean and increase the idle rpm as well, correct?
 

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Sorry its taken so long to reply. Yes, i do believe my idle speed may be to high. I haven't had time to check though as I've been pretty busy and leaving town this weekend as well. I have received all of my fluids and filters (ended up going with K&N and Outerwears). When i get back I will start disassembling, inspection and maintenance. I will also check my idle speed but I'm pretty sure my air filter is pretty stopped up after my last ride in some seriously dusty conditions. This could cause it to run a little lean and increase the idle rpm as well, correct?
Running lean or rich kinda depends on the machine. Typically if you have less air availble to the fuel air mixture it will run rich but EFI might be able to compensate but not sure. Depending on how much you disassemble try and hit all your electrical connectors with Di-Electric grease for water protection. If you ever dunk your machine having the plugs boots and every electrical connection you can find filled with the DiElectric grease will serve you well and keep the electrical system from grounding out.
 
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Discussion Starter #11


Checked my air filter while waiting to leave town. I figured it was dirty but by no means did I think it was this bad. Seems the oil in the air box didn't help either. By the way, was there ever a resolution to this issue? I read up on it awhile back but got tired of hearing about everyone just getting a new labyrinth.
 

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Checked my air filter while waiting to leave town. I figured it was dirty but by no means did I think it was this bad. Seems the oil in the air box didn't help either. By the way, was there ever a resolution to this issue? I read up on it awhile back but got tired of hearing about everyone just getting a new labyrinth.
Yep...that is pretty dirty...need to check mine too as I'm sure i could use a good cleaning. I have the same issue with oil in the airbox but it was just a light coating on the bottom of the airbox so I just cleaned it up. I did also see the post about fixing the issue but seemed rather complicated so I have just been monitoring the issue which hasn't gotten any worse. Too bad Polaris doesn't address these issues and I guess they did make a modification on later year models.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah there wasn't a whole lot of oil but you can look closely at the pic and tell where the oil saturated the pre filter and caused the dust to stop it up pretty good. Probably didn't help when I rolled it last weekend. It was a slow roll so the only thing broken or tore up was my eBay handle bar winch switch. Was pulling a drag over my seed on a food plot and went to turn on a hill and the drag caught a tree stump. It brought me to a halt quick at just the right spot while turning. Luckily it was so slow I was able to bail!
 
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