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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
No I don't think it was cheap, but you used cheap parts, cheap machining/engineering methods and wasted a huge amount of time accomplishing almost nothing. From an engineering point of view, it was an excellent exercise in futility. From a machinist point of view, it was an excellent example of what will and will not work. From a mechanics point of view, what is supposed to be the result of wasting time on this project other than finding out what parts and methods NOT to use?
As I said in the beginning, this project was to learn and eventually upscale to a larger engine/frame the long term goal is 100hp out of this. It is entirely fun and only has a purpose for learning. If I wasn’t wasting my time doing this, I’d be wasting my time playing video games. I think you can see which one I’ll learn more from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Anyway.... I found my screws did not work for holding the rotors to their shafts. I replaced them with bolts.I ran the quad for about 15minutes, and no strange sound arouse. Tomorrow I’ll pull the spark plug and look at the piston for any signs of detonation and move on from there. The engine does run well with the blower on now, and I do have hope for it being blown. I’ll have a video posted on YouTube shortly. Don’t mind it won’t have audio
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Anyway.... I found my screws did not work for holding the rotors to their shafts. I replaced them with bolts.I ran the quad for about 15minutes, and no strange sound arouse. Tomorrow I’ll pull the spark plug and look at the piston for any signs of detonation and move on from there. The engine does run well with the blower on now, and I do have hope for it being blown. I’ll have a video posted on YouTube shortly. Don’t mind it won’t have audio View attachment 174619
A couple questions come to mind:
"Balance" of the rotors, now that they have a bolt through them, have you felt any extra/new vibrations? (Too early, bearings haven't warn yet? Lol)
Why not put a "key" in them? (Limited machining access?)
 
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As I said in the beginning, this project was to learn and eventually upscale to a larger engine/frame the long term goal is 100hp out of this. It is entirely fun and only has a purpose for learning. If I wasn’t wasting my time doing this, I’d be wasting my time playing video games. I think you can see which one I’ll learn more from.
Education is not cheap and you should be pleased that you have the ability to teach yourself - that is a rare talent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
A couple questions come to mind:
"Balance" of the rotors, now that they have a bolt through them, have you felt any extra/new vibrations? (Too early, bearings haven't warn yet? Lol)
Why not put a "key" in them? (Limited machining access?)
I have the same concern of rotor balance, but so far it appears to not be affected😬 the reason I didn’t put a keyway in for the exact reason of limited machining access...That is something I’ll be working on in the later future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
So today I finally built something for the throttle... I couldn’t think of anything better so this is what I did. I did do a short test drive and.... nothing broke!!! It appears the blower is holding up just fine with the bolts in it lol
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dont mind the muffler being all sideways and stuff. I cut the exhaust pipe to fit a new muffler and was using the old one while testing
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I did some testing over the weekend and after about 3hrs of runtime the blower steadily made less and less boost untill it was making just 5lbs... I tried putting the small pulley on, but I ended up just breaking off the input shaft on the blower from over tightening it... I Decided to just call it off on this blower setup. The amr300 just isn't going to work
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
I also found a way to fix the problem for Hawkeyes where they take so much rpm to gear up! Find some nuts that will almost fit inside of the roller weights. Then grind them down just enough to where you have to press them into the weights. I personally only put nuts in 4 of the 8 roller weights. Make sure you space them out evenly inside of the cvt plate. I decided to use M12-1.5 nuts (they are for the tie rods). This is a very inexpensive solution for the problem that there is no aftermarket weights for this quad. Even though I know it is counter intuitive to use that much weight, it does work and makes the quad so much better for daily use. (Definitely will help with fuel economy)
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I did some testing over the weekend and after about 3hrs of runtime the blower steadily made less and less boost untill it was making just 5lbs... I tried putting the small pulley on, but I ended up just breaking off the input shaft on the blower from over tightening it... I Decided to just call it off on this blower setup. The amr300 just isn't going to work View attachment 175022
What failed / where was the psi going? 🤣
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
After doing some mods to the block to get the 500 to fit, I did start it up! Runs great but makes way too much boost. Was making 5lbs at idle and I know if I open the throttle there's gonna be a rod hanging out the block🤣 so I'll wait to run it more untill I get a different pulley. I also found out that the people who rebuilt this blower have already welded the gears onto their rotor shafts 🤨🤨🤨
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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Oh and for some reason the engine compression has gone up by 15psi🤣🤣 I've tested the compression several times after adding the supercharger and it just keeps going up🤨 no clue why. I know the tester is accurate because it says the exact same compression every single time on my dirt bike.for those who dont remember this engine used to be at 135psi and now it's about 150. I have never oiled the cylinder or tested while the engine was warm. I have only ever opened the carb to WOT and cranked it till psi stopped coming up.
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Maybe you are twisting the cam, advancing the cam will raise compression. Only way to find out would be to have the cam specs and degree in the cam.
 

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Nut holding the gear on the crankshaft loosened and the gear is moving on the key?

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Ok thank you all for the input..... I'm going to think about that. With how my cam drive works there is no extra load applied to the cam itself. Only the gears and chain. I have had it open once already since boosting it and I haven't seen any abnormal wear. No sign of chain stretch or anything. So far the only thing I can think of is that because the old blower blew up and sent a bunch of fine rotor sealant particles through the engine, it's actually sealed up the valves better than they used to be. I do know that the crank gear is held on by a key.... So If anything was to happen it really should have sheared the key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Sorry for the lack of recent content! I've been working on more non interesting things and waiting on parts to come!
In this past time, I've been working on the little cosmetic stuff on the quad, and fixing a few problems such as the cvt exhaust boot, throttle cable, and the oversized front blower pulley. I've also been working on making a billet rod, and since there is absolutely no measurements available for a connecting rod, I decided to buy an old crankshaft and rod. This will allow me to get my needed measurements, without disassembling the engine, and I'll have a spare crank for when we eventually break it 😆. The rod however will not be coming soon, infact ill most likey get around to making it in March and won't install it till late 2023 or 2024. I have done some learning with my cad software and have a rod made for a F1 engine!
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Now that you've got the fairings in such on, how about a wide shot so we can see the body and the blower. ;-)
 
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