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Discussion Starter #1
yesterday i boosted my 500 ho X2 turns out i fried the 20 amp main fuse. it also turns out it fried the fuse block so that now I have no power at all unless I hold my tounge a certian way while wiggleing the block. My guess is I need to replace it, if I leave it still i have power but move it and all is lost.
Questions
1) Can you buy the block and splice it in? the wires seem awfull short.
2) can you create a new block some how? I saw a post here but there was now details.
3) what about converting to 4 inline fuses?
Going hunting next week and need the thing fixed fast open to ideas
 

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Polaris seems to like Delphi connector families.
This Delphi Pak-Con III fuse block is about the closest I've found to the factory piece. I haven't physically compared them yet.
ATC and ATO 4-way Stackable Fuse Block

If you're lucky the undamaged terminals will extract and snap into the new block without cutting any wires except to the burnt terminals. You can solder splice and heatshrink the damaged wires to short tails on the new terminals

I'll be under the front panel tomorrow so I'll be getting a close look at that block and I have several of those Del City project fuse blocks.
 

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Do not just replace the fuse block without finding out what caused to to burn.
Some thing in the system was obviously drawing a lot of current. Could be a bad ground, corroded connection or some wiring with bad insulation causing a short. Either one of these conditions will burn the new fuse block as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the response.we know that the short came from boosting as we had a pretty good arc against the battery holder. The block was fried so bad one of the connectors and the block was melted. That is where we now have identified the short as we do not get the fuse connect unless we wiggle it..
 

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If its only 4 fuses and that's it, I'd just do inline and be done with it. If relays are involved it will be a better idea to replace it all. Probably easiest to get a Haynes from a parted out machine and splice in the fuse block.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
all fixed

all fixed and working well. Wired it direct.
all crimped rubber taped, plastic taped and sealed, thanks to all
 

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Should have used shrink tubing on those crimp connectors. However you can still pack them with dielectric grease. Otherwise they will be a corroded mess in no time at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the pic was taken before the plastic wrap which is water tight. The pic was taken for future reference later if we have a problem. Thanks for your points.
 

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Heat shrink would've been the way to go with those butt splices. The repair will work great right now. Condensation will cause you no end of headaches a few months/years from now.

The Delphi Pak Con fuse panels, I picked up at Del City, are an exact replacement. Yesterday I fused 4 circuits with one of these blocks. The Fuse Block stacked onto the factory block like Legos. I hit the OEM block with spray dielectric grease when I bought the bike and it looks like it did when I first opened the "hood". Did the same with the new block and expect zero issues.

The Pak Con terminals release fairly easily by inserting two #00 flat screwdrivers or the double pin release tool from the fuse side of the block. You use the tools to bend down the retention tangs on the sides just below the rounded ends so that the terminal comes out the back. You can bend them back up for re-use with needle nose pliers fairly easily. See the below picture...
 
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