I haven't but also have had great luck with Gates Carbon belts, and Gboost Sand Storm belts.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

Ultimax Belts - ATV UTV SXS Belts, Snowmobile Belts

Performance Driven. Performance Proven. Ultimax belts by Timken deliver optimum performance and long belt life.

www.ultimaxbelts.com

highly recommended for sled clutches

 

Gates user myself, keep us posted.

 

Will this belt fit my 2015 xp1000??

 

Yep

 

Another gates user.
I have the carbon belt myself - seems to work just like oem.

 

Couple ??'s
Where do you order your Gates belts from?
Is this the correct belt for 2015 850
G-Force Redline Drive Belt - 23R3856
Part #: 020797
Mfg Part #: 23R3856

 

Couple ??'s
Where do you order your Gates belts from?
Is this the correct belt for 2015 850
G-Force Redline Drive Belt - 23R3856
Part #: 020797
Mfg Part #: 23R3856

Yep, that's the correct belt
I just order from whoever offers the best deal on ebay

 

Getting ready to try one of these new Gates Redline belts on the 1k.
They're recommended for the new 1000 S and Scramblers for extreme use conditions.
I've been using Gates standard G Force belts for years with very good results and thought I'd try Gates' latest and greatest offering.
Anybody running one of these?
I'll let you guys know what I think after a few hundred rough miles in the mountains.

G-Force RedLine™ CVT Belts | Gates Corporation

www.gates.com

Not the Redline but the Gates C12 Carbon on my Sportsman XP 1000 and it's a 100% AWESOME. Gates was recomend by the parts guy at my dealer so I got one and glad I did only thing I will say is that it needs a good break in before you start hammering on it or it will slip.

 

I've been running regular Gforce belts for years and prefer Gates to any belt I've ever tried. Just thought I'd give the Redline a try.

 

I’m curious about the Redline. I currently have a Gates Carbon but am thinking of upgrading to the Redline if it performs well. I like the idea of being able to run hotter since I know my snorkel system is restricting air flow from factory settings and therefore keeping things hotter in the clutch housing.

 

Update on the new Gates Redline belt.
I'm thinking this is gonna now be my go-to belt. Super smooth engagement, good engine braking and ADC response and doesn't seem to heat up as much and get sticky like the regular Gforce belts do after long hard climbs. I assume its due to it being a different rubber compound. I've been very busy lately and haven't had the opportunity to put a real hard ride on it with extended long climbs but I'm very happy with it so far. It'll get that torture test in about a month in the high Rockies lol.
G, I ran a carbon belt on my 800 a few years ago and didn't really like it that much. Seemed like the braking action wasn't as strong as the regular Gforce. I figured it was probably a much harder rubber compound and not as sticky in the clutch sheaves as the regular Gates belts. I'm sure the carbon belts probably wear less and last much longer if that's what you're after though. They are super strong belts, but my sorta seat-of-the-pants feeling when comparing the two is that responsiveness and down hill braking action is not as good with the carbon belts. I run mostly all vertical terrain and like my belts to bite and hold back when I need it. I also change belts often (around 3000 miles or yearly) and I run in high gear most all the time so I wear belts anyway. Having a belt last for many years without changing really isn't a concern for me.

 

Thanks for the review, I may pick one up.

 

^^Ditto 👍🏻

 

Hey Poleman500 ,when you installed the redline did you have any issues with jerkiness? I installed the redline a few weeks back but didnt get to move the bike until yesterday and its jerky and the hard shift like the 1way bearing is shot. Thats with a new 1way bearing and the existing RVS clutch kit(thin shim). With that said i only pulled it out of the garage to turn it around so the new belt only has 100ft on it. Is that normal for the gates before the normal break in procedure?

 

I've forgotten exactly what machine do you have Duse?
Did you check belt to sheave clearance? Needs to be at least .020 clearance between the belt and sheaves.
What number Redline belt did you get?
There's a 3836 for the older models and a 3856 for the newer ones. They have slightly different length and width dimensions.

 

Im sorry,my bad,,,its a 2015 Sportsman 850 SP (stttrike one)
No never checked clearance (stttrike 2)
3836 older 3856 newer
Is the 2015 considered older ??
The belt I have is the 23R3856.

 

That's the right belt. Probably just need to shim the primary for a little more belt/sheave clearance.

 

Good info.Thank you.
Right now I have the thin shim in the QSC cutch kit, which is great for what I do technical, rock & hill climbs ( billy goating ) By adding the thicker shim will that raise the engagement or just put it back to where it was before the new belt?

 

LOL... Well, clutch tuning and belt brand/type changes are a trial and error sorta thing Duse. After you do it a while you can most times get it right the first time but it takes some T&E to learn to check all the variables/clearances before putting them back together.
You can run it a while to see if the belt wears in and gets better but I'd suspect you may need to swap in the thicker shim. No two belts are the same... different brands and varieties of even the same brand belt requires fine tuning to be just right.
A new belt of any brand or persuasion with a freshly rebuilt and cleaned/scuffed clutch are sometimes a little sticky and needs some break in to be super smooth to shift. A little drag or stickiness when everything is new is not unusual but if it persists after a couple hours running it needs to be adjusted.

 

Ok sounds good,Got to brake to belt in so will try to get a couple hours in this weekend and go from there 👍👍

 

Got off early so I pulled the clutch cover off.The belt is riding tight on the stationary sheave ( inner sheave,sheave closest to motor)
Clearance from the belt to the movable sheave is @.051
With that said am I still looking to add a shim to the drive, or remove a shim from the driven(if there is a shim to remove)

 

Hmm.. If I'm reading your post correctly, sounds like you may need to ADD one shim behind the secondary to move the belt out centered in the primary. You want around .020 belt to sheave clearance on both sides.

 

Yes I believe you are reading it right. I probably should have written .,,,The belt is riding tight on the "Drive clutch" stationary sheave .
Im guessing I can just pick up a 1 1/8"(ID) washer from hardware store to put on the shaft or is there a specific OEM washer I should get ?

 

Sorry Duse... I was thinking of the older style driven clutches like on the 500 when I told you to shim behind the secondary. The newer XP machines shim differently with small flat washers under the retaining bolt. Up to 4 total is recommended. Part number 7556580
But... Here's a link to a thread on a DIY variation using washers from the hardware store

How to shim Polaris XP secondary clutch

First off, I need to say thank you to Ryan with RVS Performance, this guy has been johnny on the spot with PM's answering questions, on the phone answering questions, calling back with what to do...I cant say enough good about the man and really hope anybody looking for parts/service gives him a...

www.polarisatvforums.com

 

Thats not even a 👍 post. Thats a post.
I already pulled the secondary to get a shim behind it and dreading whatever shim I put there wouldn't be right because its such a PITA getting the driven out.
Makes it soooo much easier to add or remove shims through just the retaining bolt
I had to read this part 3 times to understand how shims on the retaining bolt would pull the secondary out,,,
The whole design of the XP secondary is the free float, it in a sense lines itself up so belt doesn't drag, but without those small shims, the bolts draws the secondary down too far, shoving the belt too far towards the engine"
,,,but now I got it.
BIG HELP,Thanks so much👍

 

 

Turns out I had 2 shims on the clutch .And there were 4 oem shims on the spare clutch I have.
Added 1 shim ,still had the drag. Added the 4th shim and drag was gone but did not have the .020 clearance on both sides of the belt. Added another shim(Total of 5 and it gave me the .020 clearance. I figure Ill run around for a couple hours and see if the belt centers up some more so i can remove the 5th shim

 

I'll let ya'll know...