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Discussion Starter #1
We have a 2013 850 xp that came with a 52" glacier 2 plow . It was a demo with 40 miles on it.

Problem is. The plow digs in so bad it stops the Atv and nearly drives me over the handle bars.
Only way to stop this is to keep tension on the winch line so as to hold the plow off the ground 1/2"

What can I do?

My kimpex plow on my 700 grizzly works awesome. But it's a belly mount and the polaris plow is front mount.
I assuming is an attck angle thing, but I've been searching all morning and can find no info on digging in and corrective action.
Thanks.


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Set the shoes so the plow is just barely off the ground.

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Digs into what?

If the snow is that hard or deep, then you will have to raise the plow.

If you are plowing with soft dirt under the snow, you are going to have this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's digging in to the gravel driveway. It digs in to 5 year old hard packed gravel, not just loose stuff.
My kimpex belly mount on he grizzly glides right over it and the polaris. Rings me to a dead stop.
I have the scuffers set to keep the cutting edge 3/4" off the ground. I have no scuffers on the kimpex. Just cutting edge scraping the ground.


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what's digging in. the shoes or the wear bar? Obviously it's an attack angle issue. any lift or anything like that on the quad? larger tires perhaps? Adjusted spring tensioners? If you've got the ability to, you might want to drop the spring tension down to let the front end squat a bit more. this could help with the angle. changing the blade angle may help too depending on if you've got room to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's definitely the wear bar digging in.
Would more or less attack angle dig in less? I know this sounds like a simple question. But I was thinking if I had more attack angle, it would make it easier for the "trip" features to work. Not to sound all nerdy, but I've been starring at the this for a while and the force vectors look like less attack angle would make it harder for the plow to trip, more angle means more bite maybe, but easier to trip the plow. Thoughts??


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Discussion Starter #8
There's no lift on the bike, stock tires ( with ice studs) shocks are set to near softest setting.


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worry about the snow, not the trip. The further back the top of the blade is the easier the snow will move off the plow. the further forward it is the more it will compact the snow which is where you get the "dig" from the snow that's not wanting to move off the plow blade. tip the blade back to allow the snow to lift and move. are you using the plow dead straight, or angled? angling the blade also helps move the snow out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I have the plow angled and was plowing 2-3" of snow the other day and it would stop the bike unless I put a small amount of tension on the winch line. I'm gonna have to remove the attack angle blocks and modify them to get it to lay back any more... But it does seem that it has to be laid back to help with this problem.. That it sell the plow. It's just unusable the way it works now.
I've been plowing for 12 years with all sorts of Atvs this is my 2nd front mount plow. Last one was on my Teryx, it sucked too. It was an Eagle Plow.. Absolute garbage quality!! But aside from that, it dug in lots as well.

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I have had the same problem. I have mostly been pushing concrete or paved driveways and if your like me, I try to get that driveway as clean as possible! This hardly ever happens but I try. I realized that this glacier plow doesn't weigh a whole lot plus my 850 doesn't have enough ass to get that blade to the bare surface of that driveway and push it! Most of the time I just ram it and eventually it takes off!

Someone had mentioned changing the angle blocks on the frame. This did help a little with mine. Something else you might try is to soften the front springs (which I think you have) or add some weight to the front end. I have learned from my experience is that keeping the front springs soft will keep the front end down and the angle of the blade back. The way that I have done it is to try and make sure that the top edge is directly lined up over the bottom edge or the top edge slightly back. I originally thought that since I had a somewhat heavy blade that I needed to stiffen up the front springs as much as they would go. I learned pretty quick that when I put the blade down and started to push, my front end would be so high that I didn't have any traction in the front. So I softened the springs and it pushes fine, even deep snow. If you find that you are having problems pushing with the blade angled, put the blade straight and push. This will loosen the snow up and will make it easier to push around with the blade angled.

One thing I hate is that the concrete and paved driveways will EAT UP that edge blade. So far this year I have pushed over 80 miles, gone thru 3 edge blades, and 2 sets of shoes! I'm already tired of the snow!
 
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