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Does any one make a joint that takes grease for the sp 500 (06) and 800 (08)?

What about drilling the joints to take grease, anyone done it with success?
 

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Pretty sure older sportsmans had grease fittings on the struts. For some dumb reason they eliminated them on the newer models. Check the bottom of your strut. If not you could drill out and tap a hole in the strut and install a grease fitting to allow access for grease to get to the ball joint. I've thought about doing it myself just too lazy to do it.
 

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My '04.5 700 just has three total fittings. One at base of each strut and typical one on prop shaft.
 

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My '04.5 700 just has three total fittings. One at base of each strut and typical one on prop shaft.
Any way you could get a good pic of where the fitting is on the strut. Just curious where I would need to drill it out. Probably doesn't matter but just wonder where is was originally.
 

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Yup thanks!
 

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I added the grease fitting on my strut. The ball joint wasn't to far warn at least not by feel. Tie rods, bushings and bearings were on their way so ball joints were on the chopping block as well. When I pulled them they were full of dirt and dust. I wanted to do the grease fitting prior to the tare down but u know how that is wanting and doing are two different animals. When I saw the shape the ball joints were in I knew it had to get done.
 

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The problem is that the newer ball joints have an enclosed cup so that the grease has no way to get into the ball regardless of whether you have a fitting or not. Were any of you guys able to find the older style greasable joints that have an open back to allow grease in? Unless the back of the cup is open any grease pressure will just try to push the joint out of the strut.
 

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Good point. Didnt think of that. Idk if you can get the old joints. They may only sell the new sealed ones...
 

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I assume the grease fills a cavity just above the joint in the base of the strut.
Looking at pictures of new ball-joints. The head opposite the castle nut is just a steel cap. It should be thin enough to drill through with a 3/16" bit and a shop vac. I've drilled and tapped pickup truck joints for fittings. Grease should then flow through the hole and into the joint.
 

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The ball joint has to be drilled. There are many manufactures of ball joints, not all are sealed on top.
 

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I assume the grease fills a cavity just above the joint in the base of the strut.
Looking at pictures of new ball-joints. The head opposite the castle nut is just a steel cap. It should be thin enough to drill through with a 3/16" bit and a shop vac. I've drilled and tapped pickup truck joints for fittings. Grease should then flow through the hole and into the joint.
That might work but you'd need a good bit because the cup will be pretty hard.
 

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I saw an aftermarket brand that had the hole. I think it was EPI.

Sean
 

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I assume the grease fills a cavity just above the joint in the base of the strut.
Looking at pictures of new ball-joints. The head opposite the castle nut is just a steel cap. It should be thin enough to drill through with a 3/16" bit and a shop vac. I've drilled and tapped pickup truck joints for fittings. Grease should then flow through the hole and into the joint.
That might work but you'd need a good bit because the cup will be pretty hard.
Miracles of modern metallurgy...
Quality Cobalt drill bits are your friend. :D

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 

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It doesn't make any sense that you can't buy ball joints with the open cap. I found out the hard way by pumping grease into the fitting, it pushed the ball joint partially out bending the bottom hold down plate, but figured that's one way to remove them.
 

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The factory polaris joints are open on top. Ive added grease fittings to the fronts of my struts. Much easier to grease them right in the front vs the back.
SOME of the OEM's are greaseable and some are not. This is copied from the Polaris microfiche for a 2007 Sportsman 500:

21 7061130 Joint, Ball, Greaseless [If built before 10/27/06] 2 USAGE
21 7061153 Joint, Ball, Greaseless [If built after 10/27/06]
 

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7061130 now supersedes to 7061158. The picture of the joint I posted is accurate and is the only joint available from Polaris for this application.
 
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