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Guide for TPS Adjustment and Testing -- 2010 and Earlier EFI Models

117K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  kylevon1431  
#1 · (Edited)
I finally found it again! I used the procedure below when I replaced the TPS on my 700. It can be done without the special Polaris TPS tool; however I did buy the recommended special idle screw tool from KMS because needle nose pliers nearly messed up my screw to the point of being unusable.

The pictures are of a Ranger/RZR with the exact same throttle body as ours but the voltage specs you will have to get out of the proper manual for your machine.

You CANNOT guess or assume other years' specs will work. Make sure you have the right specs for your year AND model or you can cause permanent damage to your engine.

I take no credit for this. You can find the original web page here: Side X Side World :: View topic - Polaris: TPS Adjustment 2010 and older

TPS Adjustment procedure 2005-2010 XPs:
By: commanderjjones aka Jerry
_____________________________________________________________

TPS = Throttle Position Sensor:
The TPS is located on the passenger side of the throttle body. It tells the ECU how far open the butterfly in the throttle body is. If the TPS goes bad it can make the machine run erratically, or cause a hesitation at certain rpm’s. The only way to test the TPS is to use the tool Polaris designed to test it, or back-probe the yellow wire at the connector with a multi-meter and watch the voltage as you run up the throttle. It should climb smoothly, not erratically. Its hard to do as the numbers on the multi-meter will run up quickly.
_____________________________________________________________

Short Version.....adjusting the idle voltage:

(1) Find the yellow wire leading to the TPS and carefully pierce the insulation with the positive lead of your multi-meter (make sure that you seal that bare spot when finished). If you want to do it "right" and not pierce the wire insulation, you can buy the Polaris TPS adjustment harness ( Polaris part # 2201519-A ), which simply "T's" into the existing harness plug.
(2) Connect the negative lead of your meter to a good ground on the Ranger (the engine will work.....no need to go all the way to the battery).
(3) Set your multi-meter to the lowest setting that you have above .660 volts to get the most accurate reading ( many have a 2 volt setting and that will work great ).
(4) Turn the key on but do not start the engine. You should be seeing the proper volts for your year:

RZR:
08 = .735 +/- .010 vdc
09 = .730 +/- .010 vdc
10 = .690 - .730 vdc

Ranger:
05/07 – (700cc) = .710 vdc
06/08/09 – (700cc) = .660 vdc
10 – (800cc) = .690 - .730 vdc


If the voltage is outside of that range, turn the idle voltage adjustment screw on the left front of the throttle body ( directly above the throttle cable ) until you have the desired voltage.
Image

Although the screw is designed to require a special tool ( Polaris part # PU-47315 ), it can be done with needle nose pliers. You can buy a cheaper version than the Polaris tool here: POLARIS RZR Idle Speed Tool
(5) After the desired setting is achieved, seal and lock the screw with some thread sealant or finger nail polish to prevent it from rattling out of adjustment.

Long Version.....adjusting the base voltage:

Typically this would only be done if the base voltage screw on the TPS has been tampered with, the TPS has been replaced, you have reason to believe this step needs to be done or if you're at the end of your rope and have ruled out everything else.
(1) Remove throttle cable cover on the side of the throttle body and then disconnect the throttle cable. Be careful to not drop the brass barrel on the end of the cable. That part cannot be bought separately from the T/B if you lose it (don't ask how I know
Image
).
(2) Back off the idle set screw (shown in pic' above) until it no longer makes contact with the throttle cable cam. This should allow the butterfly to close completely.
(3) Clean the butterfly inside the T/B with carb cleaner and make sure that it closes completely (that's important for accurate readings).
(4) Check the operation range of the TPS. Using the same probe connections as above, change your meter to the lowest setting that you have above 3.6 volts (this will be 12 volts on most meters). Keep in mind this is a very sensitive sensor and very slight movements will produce large changes. It should go smoothly from 0 volts closed to 3.6 volts at WOT ( wide open throttle ). It should do so very smoothly, without any gaps, peaks, or valleys. If it has an abrupt jump or drop in voltage within a very small movement area, the sensor may be bad and needs to be replaced:

TPS:#2410342

(5) To set the base voltage, verify that the butterfly is completely closed, loosen the torx screw on the TPS
Image

and rotate the sensor until you reach .528 volts. Tighten the screw down and verify the voltage again, making sure that the butterfly is completely closed for that reading. This is a difficult step because the sensor wants to move as you tighten down the set screw.
(6) Reinstall the throttle cable and cover, then adjust the idle voltage to the proper volts as described above.

Doing the adjustments are typically easier if you have a second person to hold the meter probes........unless you're lucky enough to have the type of probe that can hold itself in place while piercing the wire insulation.
 
#2 ·
Okay, I borrowed the TPS testing tool from my dealer today since my idle is ALL out of WHACK!!

What do you set first, the IDLE voltage screw?
I noticed that when I made changes to the screw I couldnt get my TPS down low enough to the recommended voltage..

I read in the manual that you should back off on the IDLE screw and start from there..

Well, Im still fighting with this, I set mt idle to .70 and then moved over to the TPS and did .528 per the manual.. The stupid would barely run, so I adjusted the IDLE screw by ear until it would run at an acceptable RPM limit.

I understand that when you move the IDLE screw it will in turn change the TPS values also. This is what really gets me tweaked...

Is there something I'm missing.
 
#3 ·
Sounds like you're doing it in reverse order. Back off the idle set screw until its not touching anything. Now adjust your tps sensor to .528 (assuming that's the spec for your machine). It's hard to do because the voltage moves as you tighten the bolt. Be patient. Once the sensor is set, adjust the idle set screw to .700 and put a dab of loctite to hold it. That should do it.

Stew
 
#4 ·
Stew,
I think ur right, I was doing it backwards. I'm going to try again later today.. thanks Stew!!!

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
#5 ·
Stew, I spent some time today working on it again. Still no luck, when I get done my idle is at 1500-1600rpm.. it makes zero sense as to way it is acting like this.

I called my dealer and I'm going to drag it up there so they can use their laptop to get it dialed in.

When they use the laptop, do they have to adjust the TPS and idle screw or is everything just done electronically?? I'm try to decide if I can put my front plastics back on or not.

Thx again Stew for helping.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
#6 ·
Yea the laptop will not help a bit in adjusting the voltages. Its all done right at the TPS Sensor. Back probe the harness with two thin paper clips and use clamp style leads like found on my Fluke 177E. Adjusted wifes 550 in 10 minutes.

Matt
 
#7 · (Edited)
Even the dealer will have to adjust the idle screw and the sensor by hand. Did you clean out the throttle body real good? It's important that the butterfly be COMPLETELY closed when the set screw is backed off and you're setting the sensor. Just thinking out loud...are you sure you're using the right specs for your make and model? I just threw out .700 & .528 because that's what you said they were. Don't copy another machine's specs just because it has the same size engine. It won't work.

Edit: I just realized you were working on a 2006 700 EFI like mine. .528 is correct and the idle voltage should be .710 according to my manual. Also, are you removing the throttle cable as you should?

BTW, I backprobe with paperclips like Vortecz71wv mentioned. The tool from your dealer should work though.

If you leave the plastics off, maybe the dealer won't charge much. It will only take a few minutes.

Good luck,

Stew
 
#8 ·
I cleaned the TB extremely well before I even started. The only thing I have done differently is that I am removing the throttle cable from up top under the lid by the throttle , in that little black box.

I'm using the same specs as you, but still a no go. The idle us waaay off. So I did everything today by ear and throttle response and rpm idle. I have it dialed in to 1180-1240....

I don't get charged my dealer since I am their Amsoil dealer. They have taken care of me for years. I usually buy the guys lunch or something as big thanks!!

I will report back tomorrow when I get back. I wish we had a O2 bung from the factory so it would auto tune itself .. lol

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 
#9 ·
So I went down to the dealer and plugged in my machine to the laptop... We had a difficult time getting my bike to communicate with the software. Come to find out, the previous owner replaced the ECM before he sold it to me.. Well, he got a Ranger 700 ECM, lol.. It shouldnt really be a difference in specs hopefully..

Needless to say, we still couldnt get the idle 100% correct. I'm going to try another volt meter, I have had this cheap volt meter for years. So it may not be giving me accurate readings for all I know.

Whats your thoughts on a sportsman 700 running a Ranger 700 ECM??
 
#10 ·
If you cant even communicate with it, i would be getting a new one put in thats correct for your bike.

Matt
 
#11 · (Edited)
I agree with vortecz71wv on changing the ECU back to the right one. That sucks. The Polaris tech should be able to find out for sure, but I would think the fuel map would be quite a bit different along with several other parameters. One of those parameters would be the TPS & idle voltage settings which could be why you can't get it to work right.

If you go the route of changing it, you could easily sell the Ranger ECU on eBay for a decent price. Speedwerx will sell you an enhanced performance, re-mapped ECU for $400.

Stew
 
#12 ·
The laptop would read the bike once we selected the Ranger as the correct yr and model.. I looked on line and it seems that the Ranger and the Sportsman use the exact same values for the TPS & Idle screw voltages... I cant really see why the ECM would be that off, its not like the 700 motor of either machine knows which frame it is sitting in. LOL

I am going to do more researching and maybe drop a few calls tomorrow around to speedwerx and ask some questions about using diff. ECM's and problems that may arise.. Maybe they could even point in a direction as to a proper setting I could use to get a better baseline adjustment.
 
#13 ·
ohh yeah, speedwerx want 400 for an exchange or 750 straight out... WOW!!!!! I might look for a used ECM.. I do see that the REV limiter is a few hundred off between the two Ranger/Sportsman.
 
#15 ·
Forgot about the exchange/core charge requirement. $750 seems really steep.

Stew
 
#14 ·
400 aint bad at all, i paid 500 for the exchange when i had mu truck tuned by weatley performance and it has inlimited tune updates and changes when i want things tweaked!

Matt
 
#16 ·
2006 Ranger 700xp; Check engine light, does anyone know how to get rid of the engine coolant temp code? Runs pretty decent but still has a problem at idle and sometimes runs real bad at higher temps. I don't know what temp that is because this friggin machine does not have any gauges. WHY? Or do I have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer? If I could read the data stream of the system that would be great. However that program is high dollar and only available to the dealers, or so I've read. Please help. Thanks!
 
#17 ·
Hey all Polaris people. Well after reading through so many forums and allot of YT videos I have managed to sort my Polaris sportsman 550 eps 2011. and thought I would share my findings. It started with engine light and error code. 520194 3 throttle safety voltage (too high) Things I did and found. 1st issue, wires under seat coming out of harness to TPS (throttle position sensor) for some reason runs under coolant hose and over frame and had been rubbing and worn through. I soldered and covered with heat shrink and insulated. Re routed wires away from hose. Light still on and same code. 2nd issue, I decided to check TPS for voltage. After allot of research found for my bike the voltage should be 1.1v+- 0.05v with throttle body closed ( this is done by back probing pins 1&2 at the sensors with multimeter while key is on and turning the sensor till voltage is right) Now this is extremely frustrating to get right as the two Philips screws that hold the sensor are very sensitive but with perseverance I managed to get it. Problem solved, well so I thought. Code and engine light had gone but after 3 days came back on and went back into limp mode. At this stage I had ordered a new TPS from eBay as it was cheap enough and thought it might work. Final issue I found was from watching a video on YT. The connection of wires that go into thumb control accelerator connector can be removed. This connector is not water proof and once I removed it I found calcium build up. I cleaned connector put back and URICA! No more engine light or error codes. FYI I have used a product called Prolan grease in all my electrical connections to prevent this from happening again. Hope this might help anyone having similar issues.