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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First of all, a shout out to cwlongshot for proofreading this post.

This thread is on the removal, disassembly, and servicing of the individual components of the fuel pump assembly on a 2006 Sportsman 700 EFI. This summer I had problems with my machine spitting and sputtering, or dying for no apparent reason, so I started researching forums for fixes and found huge numbers of people with the same symptoms. Along the way, I documented my troubles in this forum and fixed many things. Those threads, which you may find useful, can all be found through this thread:

http://www.polarisatvforums.com/forums/atv-repair-maintenance/19800-fixed-700-sportsman-efi-spitting-sputtering-dying-when-ridden-hard.html

Much to my amazement, when I started looking for an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator part number I discovered that nobody had found one yet. I was convinced there was a pressure regulator out there somewhere, so I started digging and eventually found one. I never did find a thread on how to service the fuel pump assembly and since I was removing it anyway, I thought it would be helpful.

Keep in mind this procedure is for my own 2006 Sportsman 700 EFI Twin Cylinder. I don’t mind helping if I can, but if you are contemplating doing this, I assume you have the mechanical ability to sort out any differences in our machines with parts/wiring diagrams.

Except for the gas gauge sender portion, these principles and/or procedures don’t apply to carburetor machines.

GENERAL NOTES:

Pumps and strainers you can use:

O’Reilly’s:
Airtex E8198 pump only – this is the one I’m removing because it was not doing well in the warmer fuel in the tank.
Airtex FS111 strainer

NAPA part numbers:
NFP P72118, pump comes with strainer, NAPA on the box but made by Carter as P72118.


Based on my threads I concluded the NAPA/Carter is the pump of choice if you have the problem where your machine gets really warm and then either dies or won’t restart when hot.


AFP E8198, pump only; by Airtex
BSH N69496, Bosch pump
DFP FE0055, Delphi pump
DFP FS0070, Delphi strainer


There are others as well.

Automotive application for fuel pump: 1992 Hyundai Sonata, 2.0L 4-cylinder.


Regulators:

PR210 Standard Motor Products, eBay and Amazon, and others
BWD 23020 Borg Warner O’Reilly’s
CRB 219679 NAPA part number

Automotive application for regulator: 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 5.2L V-8

1. In order to replace the pump or strainer sock, you will have to completely remove the fuel pump assembly from the tank. The regulator and gauge sending unit can be accessed with only partial removal, but it is much easier to just take it out completely. Besides, I highly recommend replacing the strainer sock if you are this far already.

2. While you have the gas tank removed is a great opportunity to do some easy housekeeping and preventive maintenance to otherwise hard to access places. Here’s a list of things I did:

-- Replaced the spark plugs.
-- Cleaned the throttle body
-- Put foil insulation on the bottom of the fuel tank.
-- Cleaned out the fuel tank
-- Replaced the fuel filter
-- Blew out the fuel lines with compressed air, and wrapped them in foil insulation where they might be exposed to heat from the exhaust.
-- Removed the fuel rail, took out the valve core (it’s just a bicycle valve), and blew air through it. In a returnless fuel system such as this one, anything that gets past the filters will usually make its way to the end and stay there. In this case, the relief valve and possibly the right side injector.
-- Visually inspected the injectors’ filter screens.
-- Tightened up the reed assembly cover (the attachment on the top rear of the valve cover for the hose that goes to the air box).

3. Right and left references are as if you are sitting in the seat.

4. Make sure you have ventilation.

5. Unhook the negative cable from the battery.

YOU ARE WORKING WITH GASOLINE! Don’t do something that will burn your eyebrows off or we will make you post pictures of it on the forum.

GETTING THE FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY OUT OF THE TANK:

1. Remove the front fender plastic and put the gas cap back on.

2. Bleed fuel pressure through the relief valve located at the end of the fuel rail on the right side of the machine. If you have a fuel pressure tester with a relief button, then use it. If not, wad up a paper towel around a small screwdriver and press in on the valve for a couple seconds.

The machine is clean now…I promise.


3. Unhook the fuel tank vent line from the little connector.

4. Remove the air box and put a rag in the throttle body

5. Remove the crankcase and belt cover snorkels and put a rag in the port where the snorkels were.

6. Unplug the 3-wire fuel pump/sender wiring harness. Pull the gas tank back an inch or so by lifting upward and backward. This allows you to remove the fuel line from the top of the fuel pump assembly, which you should do now.

7. Remove the gas tank from the machine lifting upward and backward.

-- Siphoning the gas out beforehand makes it a bit easier to handle and lessens the chance of spilling gas. If you can’t siphon it, you will need to pour it into a gas can after you have it removed. Regardless, you need to make sure you have no more than half a tank before proceeding.

8. Remove the 5 bolts holding the fuel pump assembly to the tank.

-- The 5 holes are not evenly spaced so before you remove the unit, make a mark to help you remember where the gasket goes. Not a big deal, just easier later on.

9. Pull the assembly up until the float wire is hitting the edge of the hole. You can go a little further but the float wire must be removed before you can get the rest of the assembly out.

10. Remove the clip holding the float wire pivot point in place. Make sure the pivot point is not binding and GENTLY spread the flanges just enough to pull the pivot point off the assembly, allowing you to twist the float wire out of the tank.



11. Pull the rest of the assembly out.

-- The strainer will make it difficult to get out. If you’re replacing it, you can cut the strainer with scissors. If you’re keeping it, it’s just plastic and will bend somewhat for you to work it out. For the price, I would replace it if you are going this deep.

REPLACING THE PUMP:

Be careful with any plastic parts on the fuel pump assembly because they can be broken if too much pressure is applied to them.

1. If you think you need to, take a digital picture to help remember the location of the parts. Or you can use this one.

My filter sock is filthy!


2. Remove the red and black wire from the connectors making note of which wire goes where. If you get it backwards, the pump will run backwards.

3. Remove the clamp that holds the hose to the pump between the pump outlet and the regulator inlet.

4. Note the way the bracket fits onto the mounting post and snip the zip ties holding the pump. Remove the pump outward and downward with a slight twist to help it slip out of the hose. You can remove the black plastic mounting bracket first if it makes it easier.

5. Install the new pump and hose clamp, zip tying it to the bracket and mounting post. Make it look like it did before.

6. Check all the connections in the flow. Look for cracked hoses, loose clamps, solid wire connections, etc.

7. Connect the wires. When connecting the wires, I found the spade connectors to be slightly loose. Squeeze the connectors a little tighter if they seem loose.

8. Slide the strainer over the intake on the pump. Make sure you orient it with the long end pointing in the direction of the float.

9. Installation is the reverse of removal.

REPLACING THE REGULATOR:

1. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the tank.

2. Remove the retaining ring.



3. Give the regulator a twist to break it free of the o-rings. I used channel lock pliers.

4. Carefully spread the flanges and pull the regulator out.

-- Having a helper might make it easier.
-- If one of the flanges snaps off, it’s not a show stopper but is still a pain. If it happens, I know of someone who used a castle nut just big enough to go over the barrel of the regulator and rest on the outer flange of the regulator. He then used zip ties routed through the indents of the castle nut and around the mounting pole to secure the regulator. If you come up with a better way then let us know. Hopefully you won’t have to.

The first thing you will notice is the new regulator has a vacuum reference port. That’s because this regulator is normally mounted on the end of the fuel rail in the engine bay of a1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The port is hooked up to the vacuum system and allows the regulator to use the engine vacuum to help pull the relief valve open, lowering the fuel pressure at idle. When the engine revs up, fuel demand increases, vacuum decreases, and the regulator increases the fuel pressure until it reaches its specified pressure. The pump far exceeds the demand of the engine so excess fuel is constantly returned to the fuel tank via the return line from the regulator. Having gone through the engine bay the fuel is warmer than when it left the tank, which isn’t what you want.
On our ATVs, we have a returnless system where the regulator is mounted inside the tank without a return line. Our fuel system is supposed to maintain a constant pressure of 39 +/- 3 psi. This regulator is a 39 psi regulator. When nothing is hooked up to the vacuum port, the regulator simply references the constant pressure inside the tank. Fuel pressure never gets adjusted downward from 39 psi because there is no vacuum to help pull the relief valve open. Therefore we have a constant fuel pressure in the system of 39 psi. Excess fuel that isn’t pushed into the system is dumped directly into the tank via the port on the small end of the regulator. I’ve talked to the manufacturer’s engineer and he says this regulator will be OK in a submersible application and should work for us.

5. Examine the old regulator to see if there’s excessive dirt or anything else lodged against the filter screen. If there is, you definitely need to replace the strainer and clean the tank thoroughly.

6. To install the new regulator, put a thin film of motor oil on the o-rings and push it into place. Again, be as gentle as possible to avoid breaking off the flanges, or worse, the whole housing.

7. Since the new regulator is 1mm less in diameter than the OEM, you will need to snip about an eighth-inch off each end of the retaining ring. Then bend it slightly smaller so it will hold the regulator tight. Install the retaining ring and you are done.

TROUBLESHOOTING A FUEL GAUGE SENDER:

The most common complaints are a constant reading at or near empty, erroneous readings (for example, shows half full when actually topped off), or the gauge showing intermittently or not at all.

The fuel gauge sender uses a variable resistor to send a signal to the speedometer. There are two sliding contacts on the pivot point of the fuel gauge sender. As the float moves up and down inside the tank, the contacts slide along corresponding tracks on a small circuit board. One track is continuous. The other track is sliced into very small sections. Those sections provide variable resistance as the contact moves up and down with the movement of the float. The resistance value is translated by the speedometer into a reading on the gas gauge.



Constant reading at or near empty:

1. This condition almost always means the float on the end of the wire has a hole in it and has filled up with fuel, causing it to sink to the bottom no matter how much fuel is in the tank.

-- There could be something broken or physically impeding the movement of the float wire but that would most likely result in erroneous readings.

2. Unless you can find the hole and plug it, you will need to replace the float with one of these:

Here is a link to a fuel gauge float that has been successfully used by OuachitaMtnMan.
Fits: Allis Chalmers: D10 Through D19
Replacement for D-Series Gauges
http://stores.djstractorparts.com/-s...uge/Detail.bok

3. Save the retaining clip to use with the new float.

Erroneous readings:

1. Something physically impeding the movement of the float.

2. Float wire bent where it shouldn’t be. A manufacturer defect of this nature is HIGHLY unlikely. Someone has probably monkeyed with it before.

3. One of the sliding contacts is bent or twisted, causing it to contact the wrong portion of the circuit board track relative to the float position.

4. Faulty circuit board

Fuel gauge shows up intermittently or not at all:

Check first before removing the fuel tank:

1. Power to the fuel gauge sender.

a. Hook up a meter set to DC volts on the machine side of the 3-wire fuel tank harness, leads B and C. On my machine it’s the black lead to the brown (middle) wire and red lead to the purple/white wire.

b. Turn the key on and you should get a reading of 5 volts. If there is no power and speedometer is working other than the gas gauge, there is likely something wrong with the speedometer inside because the purple/white wire comes from the speedometer. You will need to resolve that issue first.

2. If you have power coming to the harness, set your meter to continuity and hook it up to the brown wire and the purple/white wire on the fuel pump assembly pigtail. If you have an intermittent gauge, you should also shake the machine vigorously to see if sloshing the fuel around causes it to come and go. If you get intermittent or no continuity, it is worth taking the unit out of the fuel tank and checking the following:

On the fuel pump assembly:

1. Check the wires.

a. The blue wire should be connected from the circuit board to ground.

b. The purple/white wire should go from the pigtail connector, through the grommet at the top of the assembly, and connect to the circuit board.

c. Check the continuity of the blue wire, also the purple/white wire from the connector to the circuit board. They’re not likely to be broken but…

2. Check the contacts. The power for the gas gauge passes through these contacts. If one or both of them loses contact with the track, the gas gauge won’t show at all.

a. Make sure the sliding contacts are not bent or twisted in such a way that they don’t stay in contact with the tracks on the circuit board.

b. Ensure they are curved out far enough to maintain positive pressure against the circuit board regardless of the side-to-side movement of the float wire.



3. Once you have adjusted the contacts and checked the wiring, hook up your meter again to the tank wiring pigtail, checking the resistance between the brown wire and the purple/white wire. If all is well, you should get a reading between 6-90 ohms depending on the position of the float. You should also see your gas gauge on the speedometer.

4. Ops check the gauge.

a. Attach the wiring harness and turn the key on. Hold on to it because the pump will run for 2 seconds then quit, and could cause it to fall from wherever you placed it.

b. Test the gauge by moving the float to see if the readings on the gauge adjust along with it. Give it time…the gauge is very slow to adjust to movements of the float. Otherwise it would be constantly changing with the sloshing of the fuel.

Good luck,
Stew
 

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Excellent.
Should be made a sticky. Mods?
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Awesome post. I wish I knew if the flickering of my fuel gauge was a symptom of the the fuel pump wiring on the internal or external side of the gas tank. But thanks for the instructional. I have a feeling I'll be back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Awesome post. I wish I knew if the flickering of my fuel gauge was a symptom of the the fuel pump wiring on the internal or external side of the gas tank. But thanks for the instructional. I have a feeling I'll be back.
It could also be that one of the little contacts is intermittently losing contact with the tracks on the circuit board. No contact = no gauge showing on the display.

Stew
 

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Excellent Thread.
Question.... did this finally solve the rough-running rough-idling problems? I have a 2006 500 and a 2007 500 (both efi) with the same symptoms as yours. I have tried just about everything.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Excellent Thread.
Question.... did this finally solve the rough-running rough-idling problems? I have a 2006 500 and a 2007 500 (both efi) with the same symptoms as yours. I have tried just about everything.

Thanks
On my machine, I had two separate issues going on at the same time. The rough idling was fixed by a new T-bap harness (the 700 has the air temp and MAP sensor combined into one) and a new throttle position sensor harness. My engine-dying-for-no-reason issue was fixed by a new fuel pump.

Are you throwing any codes? 41 or 45. Rough running/rough idling is usually not a fuel pump, though it could be.

Simple fixes would could be dirty air filter, fouled plugs or clogged fuel filter. Also make sure your throttle body is clean on the inside. Make sure the battery connections are clean and snug.

If it's electrical, I would start by checking the wiring harnesses for the air temp sensor and/or the MAP sensor, both located on the boot between the air box and throttle body. The wire strands often break inside the insulation at or near the plug so you can't see them. It's so common that there are even replacement harnesses from Polaris. Tug on each individual wire. If it feels or looks stretchy anywhere, then the wire strands are probably broken inside

Stew
 

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Thanks AKStew for your response and hints. You are definitely the go-to-guy on this stuff.

I am embarrassed to report my outcome. I got my erratic idle problem fixed... finally.

I had read somewhere that one can adjust idle speed with the throttle cable adjustor (the one in the cable on the handlebar). It turns out that if that is not adjusted to its slowest-idle position, it screws up the attempts by the ECM/Idle Air Control to control the engine's idle. After resetting the cable to that position, all is well. It idles like a swiss watch. I wont tell you all the stuff I did before I got this right.

Lessons Learned:
The Idle Air Control is the sole authority over idle speed. YOu cannot adjust idle any other way except the automatic control.
Thou shalt not mess with the idle stop screw on the throttle body. Even though the manual is adamant about this, I did make this mistake. ($$)
Thou shalt not try to adjust idle with the throttle cable threaded adjuster. This is not clearly documented but I discovered that it is a no-no.

Happy Trails
-curt
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Glad you figured it out and thanks for letting us know what you came up with. A fixed machine is always a good outcome. Just think how much you learned about your machine by doing all that "stuff" to it. :) Ain't it fun!

Enjoy your ride,
Stew
 

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Fuel pump replacement 06 Sportsman 500

I'm following AKStews advice and recommendations and will replace by fuel pump with the Carter pump. I'm replacing the inline fuel pump, cleaned the tank and put heat reflective material on the fuel tank. I have 8300 miles on the 500. It has been a good machine until recently it will quit everytime I take it out. The fuel is heating up and when it gets over 100f, it will stop until it cools down or put more fuel in. I have my fingers crossed that this will fix it. I'm waiting for some fuel grade tubing to come by mail as there is none here in the NM desert. Just the other extreme climate from Alaska, but no different in finding parts that you need.

Will post on my outcome in the near future.
 

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Same problem

I have the same symptoms.
When its hot and high altitude (>10k ft) it will die. Or, fail to start. Couple of things to note though…. I replaced the fuel pump (Polaris), and I have checked the fuel pressure. Pressure is a consistent 40 lbs – normal. Still have the problem.

When it dies, if I remove the fuel line from the the injector rail and let it pump out some fuel, it will clear up and start right away. That pretty much confirms a vapor problem. Note this is a little dicey since the fuel comes out right above the hot exhaust so some care is warranted here.:ponder:

Bottom line, I wouldn’t count on the fuel pump replacement fixing anything. I would have the fuel pressure checked before going to the trouble. I don’t think it’s the pump - I think its forming vapor in the pump/line. But…. that does not explain why this showed up now after about 4k miles ? ? ?
 

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New pump

I have been fighting this for the last 3-4 years. My opinion is that the fuel pump is either working harder or less efficient and heating up the fuel in the gas tank. That along with heat from the engine heating the fuel tank and the fuel line is causing the high temp in the tank and vapor locking. I know that the fuel in the tank get hots and I have been measuring it the last few times. When the fuel gets to over a 100 f the engine will slow down and stop.

The polaris dealer here has been taping the fuel lines with metalic tape. I have completely covered the bottom and sides of the tank thinking it was just engine heat on the tank that was the problem. But it still quit me after about 35 miles and the tank was on the bottom half of fuel. Outside temp that day was around 45 f. Tank temperature was 110 f. When it quit, I poured in a gallon of fuel and it started right up. While I have it all torn down, I think I will try and tape the fuel lines. However the fuel line run basicly on top of the fuel tank to the filter and to the injector. The dealer also said that the newer models have a newer and more cooler running pump. But still wanted to sell me to total package of pump and tank. Jerry
 

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This is very frustrating. My dealer claims this is not a common problem.

I have considered plumbing in a return line from near the injector, back to the tank. Unless one could relocate the pressure regulator there, the return would have to be manually controlled and used only to clear a vapor lock.

If the problem is too-hot fuel, none of this is going to help.

I have been running with the side panels off. This might help a little.

-curt
 

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I still lean toward something heating the fuel in the tank. I dont think I have had it quit on a full tank. It seems the majority of the times it has quit is when the fuel level in the tank is under half full. Except when it quits, the engine runs great, idles fine and never lacks power, but when it slows down and quits running it is stopped in its tracks. It has quit on a hard pull in the mountains in low gear, down on the flats in high gear and everything in between. So the pressure regulator seems to be functioning at the proper levels when running with cool fuel.

You might want to check your fuel temp when it quits. I have been carrying a long deep fat frying thermometer. It has about 12 inch probe, so you can check the fuel deep in the tank.

Jerry
 

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Great write up. Where were you last year? Lol
 

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Problem. Flashing fuel gauge empty.
First I used a anger to test if float was floating or bad sending unit. could raise float arm with hanger and fuel gauge responded. Float wasn't floating.
I have disassembled and removed fuel pump assembly from tank. Took float off sending unit clip and tried to float it in fuel. sank to bottom. sure now the float isnt floating.


I see from your post you are recommending a float that doesn't appear like mine [or the one pictured in your post.

My float arm goes through the float with a small retainer clip. does not look like the jeep part you referenced goes through the float but mounts to the arm via the groove ring on the float.

What am i missing?


Redirect Notice
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Problem. Flashing fuel gauge empty.
First I used a anger to test if float was floating or bad sending unit. could raise float arm with hanger and fuel gauge responded. Float wasn't floating.
I have disassembled and removed fuel pump assembly from tank. Took float off sending unit clip and tried to float it in fuel. sank to bottom. sure now the float isnt floating.


I see from your post you are recommending a float that doesn't appear like mine [or the one pictured in your post.

My float arm goes through the float with a small retainer clip. does not look like the jeep part you referenced goes through the float but mounts to the arm via the groove ring on the float.

What am i missing?


Redirect Notice
I've never used either float. My float wire also goes through the middle of the float as you describe, and you may be right in that the floats I recommended won't work. They were recommended in another forum and I didn't check the source. My bad.

However, you could bend the end of the float wire to make it work. Just roll the end of the wire around a socket that is sized to end up with the right diameter. Also, you can find something that floats, won't get saturated, AND won't dissolve in gasoline.

Stew
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No, my float is still the original.
 
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