Since it runs and starts fine when warm, it might be the valve lash out of adjustment. -just a thought-

 

Thanks for the info. I'll look up how to adjust the valves on it.

 

Sounds like good preparation, there will likely be others here that might suggest checking other stuff first, but if the valves have never been adjusted they may need it.

 

My 900rzr started like that and eventually wouldn't start at all. Thought it was the top end cause of low compression!! Bought a top end kit. When I took it apart. Noticed the Hydraulic cam chain tensioner had FAILED!!! Loosening the chain and sprockets out of timing. And sprockets were a bit rounded.
Not sure if go back with mechanical or OG hydraulic.

 

Check your electrical grounds, might need cleaning.

 

The valve lash is hydraulic

So it becomes compression, ignition and fuel as the likely suspects. Which one of the three is not up to standards.

 

I don't know if the fuel filter has ever been changed. I just got the service manual so gotta figure out where it is. I'll check the grounds as well as that is easy to do. I have a compression tester for my 71 firebird so maybe that will work and I can test compression as well.

Unsure how to test spark though.

Edit: found a thread on how to check spark. I'll dig into this shortly.

 

Sounds like low compression. How much oil does it use?

 

It isn't burning oil at all. I changed the oil a few months ago and maybe put 15-20hrs on it since the next change. Still full and clean when I changed it out. I'm going to test the compression tomorrow.

 

clean your carb, adjust freeplay.
pull your spark plug and see how it looks,

feather the throttle as you start it, does it start right away? if so, clean your carb,

 

A 2008 800 is EFI so no carb. It may indeed need the TB cleaned. Most 800's do with age.
I'm betting on low compression from either worn rings and/or leaking valves needing worked on...
Or more likely, all of the above.

 

Sorry for the late response. I haven't had a chance to get to compression testing it yet. Work has been kicking my ass the last few weeks. I'll be testing that this weekend if not tomorrow night.

 

Compression testing done. 150 on both sides on the dot. I did notice that the air breather on the engine was totally loose. About 1/8" gap. Cleaned that up and tightened it down. Wires look good but I have not tested them with an OHM meter or tested the ignition coils.

EDIT:
Checking ohms and not getting any readings at all with or without the plug wires connected. I know the meter works, I ohm'd one of my speakers and for 4.2 for a 4ohm speaker. So guessing the ignition coil is shot at this point?

Checked the wires off the coil, A wire is 4.95, B wire is 2.96.

 

New wires and coil, still has starting issues. Runs a lot better though once it gets going.

 

change spark plug?

 

Yup. First thing I tried.

 

Any other suggestions? Maybe some type of Temp sensor?

 

i could be wrong, but isnt a bad rectifier has similar symptoms?

 

I thought so as well but the battery charges fine and isn't draining. Voltage going to battery is good. . The starts aren't really hard as it fires up quickly just won't idle until the 3rd or 4th start.

 

efi? check fuel pressure,

 

Yes efi. Unsure on how to check fuel pressure on it.

 

you will need a fuel pressure tester,
locally some automotive parts stores can rent you the tool if you dont want to buy it, not sure if you have an option like that.

 

you will need a fuel pressure tester,
locally some automotive parts stores can rent you the tool if you dont want to buy it, not sure if you have an option like that.

Harbor Freight has a kit for $24 so I'll order one and check it out. Doesn't seem like the car parts store around me rent those out.

 

Ended up taking it to a shop, and they "can't figure out the issue"... At least the didn't charge me but what a waste of time.

I have not checked pressure, I got the gauge but didn't check it yet. Just haven't found the time to work on it.

 

Ended up taking it to a shop, and they "can't figure out the issue"... At least the didn't charge me but what a waste of time.

I have not checked pressure, I got the gauge but didn't check it yet. Just haven't found the time to work on it.

A SHOP or a Polaris dealer? Many independent shops have their hands tied when it comes to EFI and the computerized diagnostic equipment is required for diagnosis and repair.

 

By one of my jobs there is an off-road mechanic shop that always has quads, dirt bikes, side by sides there that they work on. So I figured I'd give it a shot.

The only Polaris dealer in my area is RideNow, and I can't stand that place but might have to just bite the bullet and go there.

 

Yes - I have worked on motorcycles and ATV's for over 40 years, but if it's EFI and it's not a fuel pump or an electrical connector, I am done with it. Off to the dealer with the $3000 program and the $400 interlink to connect the computer to the vehicle to be properly diagnosed.

Give me a carburetor and I can work magic with it I have the time to screw with it.

 

I totally understand. I can fix my 71 Firebird no issues, my 2011 Tacoma I have to hook into the ODBII and scan it to find out why it isn't happy. Guess it will be time to go to Ride Now.