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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
( Hard Shifting. Hard to shift )
(2011 850 xp)

Here is what I have so far....

--The drive clutch sheaves do not appear to touch the belt at idle.

--Idle Speed is correct.

--The belt is dragging at idle making it hard to shift.

--The belt looks like brand new. I compared it to a new one and it shows no wear.

I checked the one way bearing on the drive clutch. It is supposed to turn only one way. Well it does, but I am suspicious that it has too much drag when "free wheeling".

So I am taking it apart to clean and inspect the one-way bearing. (I am held up now waiting for a clutch removal tool.)

UPDATE:

I poked around and now I can see what the problem is.

I run the engine speed up enough to start closing the drive sheaves - then return to idle. The sheaves do not retract all the way. They remain slightly closed - just enough to touch the belt.

While its still running, I can put a stick against the movable sheave to push it back, and then it returns to fully retracted and the belt stops moving.

It is clear the problem is not the one-way bearing. The problem is the drive clutch. I don't know why it is not retracting all the way. Just a light nudge with the stick makes it retract to normal.

Everything in there looks squeaky clean. But all I can think to do is to take is apart and clean it well.

Do you think I need a new Spring ? (spring is red/white).
 

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Interesting I have had this problem since new. Dealer didnt fix then was out of warranty. It shifts fine shutoff and at first start up. Even if driven verylightly it will shift. But give more than a bit of gas and its hard to shift again until, I shutoff or force gear change then it is fine again. Very aggravating when having to backup and go forward many times.
It was suggested on here the belt was the problem. Changed belt, no difference.
Then suggested one way, have yet to do that.
Interested in you findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Got It !

This is a record for me. Found it the same day.

Here was the problem.

The movable sheave on the Primary (drive) clutch must move in and out on the shaft. It is moved by the combination of springs, weights, and rpms.

BUT it must move very easily and freely.

I found that the bearing that the movable sheave slides on was simply gunked up. It had a coating of stiff grease/dirt on it. So the sheave could move - but not freely.

The sheave did not fully retract at idle and so kept dragging on the belt. So that had two effects: a) That made for hard shifting, and

b) It caused rough clutch engagement. It took too high rpms to overcome the drag on the dirty bearing so when it finally moved, it engaged at too high an RPM. Clunk !

I was hoping to solve a) and I got a solution for b) as a bonus.

The good news.. You do not have to remove the clutch to clean that bearing. Just remove the clutch cap (#11), then slide the sheave back to expose the bearing. I found I could clean it off with some paint thinner and working around the obstacles. When its clean, the sheave should move back and forth very freely.

The arrow points to the bearing. (#3)

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Interesting I have had this problem since new.
Your problem should be easy to diagnose, enlightened. There is no excuse for the dealer to stick you with this. Its not hard to diagnose and fix.

With the clutch cover off, put transmission in neutral and start the engine.

The belt and secondary clutch should not be turning.

Speed up the engine to engage the primary clutch, then back to idle speed. The secondary clutch should slow and stop. If it does not, then something is dragging.

That can only be one (or more) of the following:

1--Primary clutch sheaves are touching the belt and turning it.
* The primary (drive) sheave is not fully retracting. You should now be able to find out why. You can test this while its running: use a piece of wood to press the spinning sheave back. If it moves and the belt stops turning then your sheave is not fully retracting. THERE MUST BE A GAP. If not then see my fix above - OR - check your idle speed. It must not be too fast!.​
OR
* The belt is too wide and does not have a gap between its edges and he primary sheaves at idle. THERE MUST BE A GAP. Wrong belt.​

2--The one-way bearing is dragging or frozen.
This is easy to check. Remove the belt and turn the bearing with your fingers. It should turn quite easily in one direction but not the other. If this is the problem - replace it.​
 

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Thanks for that update. I haven't had a chance to get in and have a look. Been changing all the tie rods ball joints and bushing the past while. I will pull apart and report back in a few days.
We are not the only ones with these issues.
 

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My one way bearing moves both directions. Has a lot of play side to side as well. Not sure if it should. Now how to get the clutch off...
 

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Ok one way bearing was changed with some shims and washers by the dealer. It does shift better but it is still hard at times and forces me to shut engine off to shift. I also notice in my garage there is a very slight creep when put in gear. Does it forward and reverse. Only when first put in gear the bike moves a bit and only on perfectly flat surface. Did not do this before the one way was changed. The belt looks good but I don't know if it is worn to much or what. How do you tell. No chunks, cracks or whatever.
 

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Likely that it's the wrong belt or the drive clutch is not shimmed properly, or the drive clutch is not shifting open all the way - probably one the later two items. Look at the belt placement in the primary when in neutral and running. Belt should not be touching either the inside or outside shive. Need the clutch cover off to do this.
 

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I'm having the same trouble, my primary clutch closes just enough to pinch the belt causing trouble with shifting gears. I put a stick piece of wood in against the sleeve while its running and yes I can open the clutch enough that it takes the tension off the belt but the primary clutch don't seem to be sticking it just wants to close while running , is there a way i can fix this? Again the primary isn't sticking its just closing to far. Any suggestion?
The one way bearing is free (easy to spin with my fingers).
 
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