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Hawkeye Transmission

9K views 19 replies 4 participants last post by  ThorsHammer 
#1 ·
Didn't take long, going 45 transmission sounded like it exploded and started slowing down quick. Trying to get the rear fender off to have an open view to work on the transmission. How do I get the peg that holds the seat on off? Looks like it just goes into a frame but it just spins. Also need manuals if anyone knows where I can get some. I suppose a sportsman manual will work too.

It will still go. Just sounds like rocks. My dad think its a screw that holds the clutch on. He had to work on the transmission before I got it and put blue lock-tite on it when he put it back in.
 
#6 ·
I do not have your particular machine, but the bolt just rotating without coming out indicates to me that there is a nut on the bottom end. In my experience, when Polaris attaches something to the frame, it has a self tapping style bolt. This bolt may go through a bracket or something that you can't see.
 
#7 ·
ThorsHammer just replied to a PM I sent. I too thought there was a nut, but couldn't see it or feel it, but I could see my fingers were right next to the latch pin.

"there isn't a nut. its a pressed in thread insert. If the stud is just spinning the insert is stripped. Just pull it out with a hammer or simmilar levering device. Try to to warp the metal to bad. Both studs on mine are missing completely from this same issue."
 
#8 ·
Bought a new bolt and washer off partzilla. Half the prize than what I was going to pay through polarispartshouse.com. Anyways, the bolt had come off before and I guess took some fins off the clutch. My dad said he ground them down to where they was all about even (I guess to make it more balanced). Should I look into buying another one to replace it? It's rather an expensive little piece. Part # 1322635

Polaris ATV Parts 2008 A08LB27AA HAWKEYE 2X4 DRIVE TRAIN, SECONDARY CLUTCH Diagram

I found one used on ebay for $142. Anyone know of a good route to go, if it should be replaced?
 
#9 ·
Depends i guess on what kind of riding you plan to do. Here and there around the yard, may not matter. Those fins help circulate air inside the belt housing to keep the parts cooler. If you plan to do any trail riding, I would replace it. Better to spend the money than cook a belt on the trail. I got a complete secondary clutch assembly for my magnum from Ebay too. Keep watching if you are not in a hurry, you might be able to find one cheaper. Check and see what other models that clutch fits and search for them too. Again may be able to find one cheaper. Looks like at least the 2008 through 2011 Sportsman 400 and Hawkeye 300 used the same secondary clutch. Maybe others too.
 
#17 · (Edited)
ok, so I'm assuming the fins you're talking about are the ones on the back of the "stationary sheave" I've got a broken one on mine and it hasn't caused any issues with balance.

to take that nut off get a 33mm socket and an impact gun. you won't get it off any other way. I had to heat prior to impact to get it off. just fair warning. Heat the nut from the outside edges to get it to expand, but not the shaft/threads.

You can get the belt off and on without taking the front (drive) clutch off. but it's a hell of a lot easier with it off. Once it's off it's easy to get the rollers back in. just make sure that you hold the clutch and cover together as you put it back on.


EDIT: if you've got multiple fins that are broke, or shaved, I would replace the clutch assembly. because you're not moving enough air to keep things cool. could have been what lead to the belt failure to begin with.

Also, don't forget to break the belt in before really going crazy.
 
#18 ·
I got it off using my impact and map gas torch. I had the standard socket in place of 33mm. My dad put red loctite on it and had the threads buggered up so the plate couldn't slide off. But chisled at it with a knife and sprayed kroil on it and worked it off as I spun it around with a pry bar. Here's my stationary sheave.
 

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#19 ·
Also, the drain plus really isn't the issue, though a new one isn't a bad idea, just to keep as much liquid out as possible.

Lastly, I just drilled a hole in the rear fender to get to the middle bolt. Hole is be enough to fit the socket through easily. With the foot well out, the cover can be jockeyed out without taking the rear plastics off at all.
 
#20 ·
I'd definitely replace it. otherwise you risk replacing belts every couple of weeks. that'll get expensive quick.

Hopefully your threads aren't chewed up to bad. may want to try and run a die down them to chase the threads and clean out the crud.
 
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