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Discussion Starter #1
Was cruising the web looking for some repair advice. Can you guys help? I have a used Polaris Ranger ETX (2015, I think). It won't switch into AWD, because the two wires that enter the front diff have clean broken off right at the diff, so I can't re-connect them to it. What do I do? Do I remove and replace the connector (or is it a magnet?) that's in the diff? If so, how??? And where can I get that part from? Please assist if you can. Thanks!
 

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First I think you need to clarify what you have. A Ranger and an EXT are different machines. Ranger is a side by side and the EXT is an ATV. The 10th digit of the VIN will indicate the model year. If you have the VIN or write it down somewhere there are VIN search sites that will tell you what you have or you can call a dealership and ask them to run it too.

You can get parts from a number of different sources. A dealership, however they are usually very proud of their parts. Partzilla.com, Bikebandit.com and a few other places offer Polaris parts but you have to wait longer to get them. Some stuff you can get used, from Ebay or I use a salvage yard in Nebraska...powersportsnation.com

In your case, I think you are going to have to pull the front diff apart and see if you can splice the wires. I have never been inside a front diff so I don't know how much room is inside. You might have to replace the whole electro-magnet to get it fixed. I would suggest that you get a repair manual for your machine. I rebuilt the engine in my first 325 from a Clymer manual.

Sounds like you have an interesting project! Good luck with it!
 

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Greetings, Steve! Thanks for your reply. I re-checked and it is still a Polaris Ranger ETX. It's 400cc, EFI. There's a two-wire connector plug on one end, and the two broken wires on the other. And the backlight on the AWD dash switch still works. So all I have is the two broken wires that need to be reconnected to the spot on the diff. Seems to me there should be an easy way to access and replace the part at that point where the two wires enter the front diff - without having to split the case. How is that electromagnet fitted???
 

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Your going to have to pull the diff, open it up, and replace/repair the wires. That's it in a nut shell!!
 

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Yep - the only fix requires removing and disassembling the front gearcase - not easy and can't be done quickly, but I would like to know what you are working on. A Ranger or an ETX? It might make a difference on the parts needed or the disassembly and assembly techniques. What's the VIN?
 

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Ok, I am not familiar with the EXT model of the Ranger line. Never saw one before. I put them together for a dealership so we must not have sold any.

It is a Ranger, the engine size doesn't really matter in this case and bp405 is on the money, you will have to pull the diff and repair the wires. Not an real difficult procedure, but it won't be a quick one. You will pretty much need to take the whole front suspension apart to get to the diff.
Most of it should be fairly self explanatory but you will be much farther ahead to have a repair manual in the long run. It will give you step by step instructions for getting the diff out, apart, repaired and back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was afraid you were gonna tell me that! Trying to do this on the quick and easy. Is it worth trying to "excavate" around the connection point with a rotary tool to expose the wires for a patched reconnect? I'm not happy that such thin gauge wires were used here. A little mud and a few bumps and the wires no doubt will simply stress-fracture off soon enough again. BTW, you guys are awesome!
 

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You, Sir, indeed do have a RANGER® ETX - SAGE GREEN in color, 2015 model # R15RMA32AA purchased on 11/30/2015 engine # 0120498303217 and the warranty expired 11/30/2017
 

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No, do not excavate and half ass the repair. The front diff is pretty well protected in there behind the brush guard and all. So I would guess this issue is an isolated incident. Shit happens sometimes no matter how well we plan for everything.

The front diff has to stay sealed so if you dig around with a dremel, you could compromise the case and cause a leak. You are only looking at a few hours work here. They are not that complicated it just takes time to get into where you need to get. Do the repair right the first time. Worst case you will need to get the electro-magnet inside if there isn't enough room to add a splice. The splice will need to be sealed from the fluids inside the diff so maybe a solder joint and shrink tubing.

I would say you should be able to get this repair done properly in a day. Work outside in from the wheels into the diff and take your time. You can do this man!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for fronting up with me! It's fairly unusual to find a decent convo in a straight-up forum these days. So here's my end of this story: I'm on a dairy farm at New Zealand. It's calving season, which involves slopping around in very muddy paddocks, picking up 20kg bags of squirming energy (i.e. newborn calves), and chucking them into a trailer behind the Ranger. So having the AWD function is pretty much a necessity. In the past two weeks, with only 2WD available, I've already been stuck in the muck a few times, and managed to get myself un-struck at least a dozen more times. The deal now is to be able to find the time to take the Ranger out of service and get the job done. Hopefully, I'll be able to take a micro-close look at it soon. There still yet might be a way to re-connect without having to crack that case...
 

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Listen LISTEN, that diff is very expensive!!!! FIX IT THE RIGHT WAY!!!! I can only recall this type of in incident happening once before. It's totally uncommon!!! Also stock tires SUCK, buy some decent rubber and you probably won't need AWD. Only in EXTREME conditions with the right tires will you need to flip that switch!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep, stock tires are fairly useless. I got a set of aftermarkets on it now - makes all the difference. Plus, I run 'em nearly flat, in the muck.
 
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