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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have a 2012 Sportsman 500HO. A few weeks ago I blew a belt when driving down a normal gravel road. I noticed it was like slipping or loss of power then poof flap flap flap snap. I took the cover off and the belt was destroyed. I replaced it that day and went all day roughly 250km of riding on trails, mud and water. It was running good but noticed it had that bit of sluggishness or slipping when dry and when I went in water (not dead maybe 6") I could tell the motor was making a different noise or the belt area. Anyways was a good day and no issues. Then a few weeks later the second time riding my quad since belt replacement I was driving my quad to another town as I moved and on a dirt road felt my top end going up and down then poof flap flap so I stopped right away. I haven't removed anything yet but what the hell is going on! It's not even 1 year old my quad and this is happening plus the belt is less than a month old! Now I have put bigger wheels and tires 14" MSA M15 crusher wheels and 27" Maxxis zilla's (not mud zillas). I've had the wheels for a many months before the 1st belt blew so this can't be it at all (what do you think as many riders have big wheels and tires and never have issues). Now another thing my friend and I looked at was the oil levels. I've only had 1 service so far and we noticed the oil was wayyyyy above the full line would that cause the engine to over work and cause this to happen? I've reached my 100 hours so I'm going to slap my stock wheels and tires on as the dealer said to do this before because Polaris will void my 2000 dollar extended warranty and see what they can find. I've also heard my clutch springs or weights could be off or the engine mount is off? I don't ride my quad super hard. So any help would be great, thanks!
 

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ok, so I'm going to assume that the dealer has done all services. so the fact that it was was well over full is concerning. was the engine oil hot when checking? that could be part of it. also did you clean and than re-dip to get the true level, not the splashed level?

as for the belt. The tires definately are part of the problem. was the replacement belt a OEM belt or was it after market? did you clean the clutches of any residue, etc before swaping the belt? do you have a clutch kit? was there any water/dirt/non-rubber dust in the cover when you took it off?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The oil wasn't hot at all when we checked it and yes we re-dipped it. It was a Polaris OEM belt as I heard those are the best. And yes the (pulley looking things) clutches I cleaned with a clean rag and some light cleaned all around and made sure the belt cover had no rubber belt left in it. No I dont have a clutch kit (should I get one?) And when I took the cover off it was perfectly clean except parts of the broken belt. But like I've seen on the forums and including (theatvsuperstore.com) most people use bigger wheels and or tires. Plus the weight isn't that big. It's only a 2" bigger difference around. Do I really need to change the tires as I should be able to keep the wheels right?
 

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Put a clutch kit. I run 27" (true to height) grippers , which are heavy like big horns. I did a clutch kit, and even with heavy 27's my belt looks like new.

Are you using low range when you are going slow?

Also make sure you "break the belt in" with lots of low range.

Those 27" zillas actually measure 26" and are a light tire, you shouldnt be blowing belts unless you have bad riding habits.

Oh and where did you get your services done?
 

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a clutch kit wouldn't be a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What would a clutch kit do to help me? I only use low gear when going thru mud or deep stuff. also how do you break in a belt?
 

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Clutch kit will recalibrate your clutches to work with the bigger tires and the harder work they need to do to turn them in mud and under heavy loads like that. It's a must if you go with bigger tires, even if they aren't that heavy as the diameter changes your final gear ratio and puts a lot more strain on your belt.
 

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I recommend QSC over the rest, partially because I'm a dealer for them, Mostly because I've run almost everything out there for kits and they are by far the best. You will need a complete kit with springs, weights, and helix change and would run $339 shipped to Canada. Easy to install in about an hour and no special tools needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The dealer told me a customer came in because they blew the main bearing or something on their motor basically the motor was blown. A polaris rep came to check it out saw the tires and voided the warranty.
 

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I got a qsc clutch and it was well worth it.

Which dealer do you deal with?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Will I lose any top end or power with this clutch kit? Lol sorry can someone explain how this will make my belt not blow up?
 

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It changes how the clutches engage. this puts less stress on the belt when using larger tires.

Lets put it this way. an ATV is designed to work as a complete package. If you change something in the drive train, the whole drive train is effected. If you change to larger tires. this effects the axles, the differentials, the drive shafts, the transmision, the clutch, belt, and the engine. as they are all connected. It adds more strain, more wear, and potentially causing premature failure.

It is my understanding that Polaris is very finicky about their warrenty and larger tires will void drive train and engine warrenties. as will a clutch kit. but the clutch kit is FAR less obvious. but then again. The clutch kit will also help protect the other drive train parts. so I don't know for sure if it would or not. The way I treat warrenties, I don't change anything besides the tread pattern on tires (sizes remain the same) until the warranty is up. otherwise the manufacture has the ability to void the warrenty. If you keep it the same they have no excuse. wait till the warrenty is up to start moding it. otherwise you're just throwing away money. Though form my experience most warrenties unless they are built into the MSRP are a waste of money. Very few people ever get their money's worth out of an extended warrenty. because there is so much that the manufacture can claim voids the warrenty.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Someone said yoy gotta break in the belt. how do you do this? Also isnt using low bad even going slow and should be used for hills? Like you dont shift low to high on the fly.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I recommend QSC over the rest, partially because I'm a dealer for them, Mostly because I've run almost everything out there for kits and they are by far the best. You will need a complete kit with springs, weights, and helix change and would run $339 shipped to Canada. Easy to install in about an ho
ur and no special tools needed.
ummm I checked the price from the manufactures site and it was 100 bucks cheaper than your price. How come?
 

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You need to find out what is in your oil first off. If its milky its water. If its not then maybe it was just overfilled.
 

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I recommend QSC over the rest, partially because I'm a dealer for them, Mostly because I've run almost everything out there for kits and they are by far the best. You will need a complete kit with springs, weights, and helix change and would run $339 shipped to Canada. Easy to install in about an ho
ur and no special tools needed.
ummm I checked the price from the manufactures site and it was 100 bucks cheaper than your price. How come?
if I was to guess it's that "shipped to canada" part
 
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