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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My new to me 04 Sportsman 600 has the dreaded high gear grind. It won't even go in for me. When I try to slide it into high at a complete stop it just grinds until I put it back in low etc. I've tried being patient and finesse it etc, but no Bueno. I'll pull off the outer cover and check it out first, but it just seems more like it'll be the gear.
I watched a youtube vid that showed a guy swapping out the high gear which is I'm sure what I'll have to do. The problem is that he doesn't know the part number. I have the service manual, but the trans exploded view is terrible.
Can someone tell me what the part number is for the high gear and how many teeth it has? Not that it should matter, but it's an early 2004 machine. The only difference in the tranny is where the fill and drain plugs are located.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Turn the machine off and see if it'll go in gear. That will tell you if its clutches or something to do with the tranny or linkage.
Great. Will do. So if I'm able to slide it into high gear with it off, I should be able to start it and have it stay in high gear if I'm lucky?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was able to put it in high gear with the motor off. At first it ground when I started it, but I shut it off, pulled it out of gear, put it back in and started it again. I was able to zip around with it in high.
 

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Oh course, if the one-way bearing is bad in the drive clutch it may not want to start in gear or will try to pull/creep if it does start so hold the brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh course, if the one-way bearing is bad in the drive clutch it may not want to start in gear or will try to pull/creep if it does start so hold the brake.
No problem there. Also wasn't jamming it into gear. Been around a while, so usually I'm pretty good with machines. Quads are new to me though.
So with all this said, what are you thinking? Gear?
 

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Oh course, if the one-way bearing is bad in the drive clutch it may not want to start in gear or will try to pull/creep if it does start so hold the brake.
No problem there. Also wasn't jamming it into gear. Been around a while, so usually I'm pretty good with machines. Quads are new to me though.
So with all this said, what are you thinking? Gear?
No, if it goes into gear not running and then tries to pull when you crank it you have a one-way bearing bad in the primary.
You can confirm by pulling the clutch cover and belt off and check the one-way in the primary by hand. It should turn easily one way but not the other.
Eliminate the easy stuff first before you think about going into the tranny.
If you find nothing wrong with clutches, drain the tranny oil into a clean pan to check it for metal and go from there.
 

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Sorry, I didn't see your other post about having tried it shut off. If it sorta went in at first but then you got it, you could just have linkage out of adjustment or the bell crank (70) slipped or issues in the shifting mechanism on the side of the tranny under the cover (3)…. #'s 4-8 and 63-65.
That tranny has a park lockout (59) that can cause issues too if not right.
Make sure the clutches are good and then I'd check linkage adjustment and inspect the oil.
 

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Hey Hawk, it just occurred to me... are you saying it ONLY grinds when going into high? Shifts good into other gears?
If so, that may be nothing more than linkage adjustment.
I've been preoccupied with other stuff today and hadn't thought about you saying just high gear being the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Hawk, it just occurred to me... are you saying it ONLY grinds when going into high? Shifts good into other gears?
If so, that may be nothing more than linkage adjustment.
I've been preoccupied with other stuff today and hadn't thought about you saying just high gear being the problem.
Thanks for all the help. Yes. It only grinds going into high. All the other gears are fine. If it's just a linkage adjustment that would be great. I'm going to change the trans oil and check the linkage a little closer this weekend. If no change, I'll check the clutch. I'm planning on going with a GL5 80w-90 synthetic gear lube (13.5 oz.). The manual calls for Polaris Premium Synthetic Gear Case Lube. I'll also change the oil at the same time with 0W40 synthetic (2 qts.).
I won't be able to do all this until Friday or Saturday, but I'll post an update when I do. Thanks again for the help.
 

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80w-90 is WAY too thick for the tranny. Its actually a chaincase. It uses a chaincase oil similar to the transfer case in a 4x4 pickup. If you can't get the Polaris stuff, Amsoil makes an alternative that is recommended for Polaris trannys. Its more the consistency of regular motor oil than gear oil. Regular 80w-90 is ok for the rear differential but much too heavy for the tranny.
The front differential uses a very thin/hydraulic type fluid of about 10w. Some guys use synthetic ATF as a substitute.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
80w-90 is WAY too thick for the tranny. Its actually a chaincase. It uses a chaincase oil similar to the transfer case in a 4x4 pickup. If you can't get the Polaris stuff, Amsoil makes an alternative that is recommended for Polaris trannys. Its more the consistency of regular motor oil than gear oil. Regular 80w-90 is ok for the rear differential but much too heavy for the tranny.
The front differential uses a very thin/hydraulic type fluid of about 10w. Some guys use synthetic ATF as a substitute.
I was just going by the factory service manual. That's what it says to use for the tranny. I'll look a little closer at it then.



Awesome video. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This video shows what I suspect is the problem with my high gear. I'll check the other things first, but ultimately I think I'll be changing the high gear. That's what I was looking for the part number for.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
These are the two pages I was referencing from the factory service manual. I know it doesn't say the 80w90 under the trans which calls for the Prem Syn Gearcase Lube, but if it's calling 80w90 a substitute for the Premium Synthetic Gearcase Lube for the rear case, what could the difference be? If it's a substitute it's a substitute. So many times with petroleum products it's nothing, but marketing. Without a doubt that's the case for Polaris IMO. There's no reason their oil should be as expensive as it is other than for profits. There's always a reasonable substitute that works just as well. The trick is finding it within all the disinformation out there.
 

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Your picture on the right is engine oil... synthetic 0w-40. There's all kinds of substitutes. I use nothing but Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w-40 for the older machines. I've got nearly 20,000 miles on my 2006 Sportsman 800 and its never had any other oil since new.
Your picture on the left is just a quick reference. You need to look at the reference pages given to get the details.
Polaris refers to ALL their drivetrain units kinda generically as "gearcases". If you look closely, the ONLY substitute listed is for the REAR GEARCASE. Like I told you before, 80w-90 is just fine for that one. Its just a simple straight gearcase and uses regular gear oil.
The transmission or what Polaris calls simply THE gearcase and is actually a chaincase. It uses a different type and viscosity of oil. It is MUCH thinner than the stuff that goes in the rear. Its made to stick to and sling around internally on the silent chains that are the heart of your tranny. Look at the reference pages in your manual if you don't believe me. IT IS NOT 80W-90!!! Years ago Polaris recommended using the same engine oil in the tranny as was used in the engine. That will still work, it always did, but now they have a special blend for that purpose. The only other specifically recommended substitute I'm aware of is Amsoil Chaincase Lubricant. I think there are some other CHAINCASE LUBRICANTS on the market now but I have no experience with them.
Your front drive unit that contains the Hilliard clutch that gives you AWD uses a 10w hydraulic type oil that Polaris calls Demand Drive. Polaris refers to it as a "Front Housing" rather than a gearcase. For many years Polaris recommended ATF as a substitute and many folks still use ATF today with good results.
Use whatever slick liquid you want, Its your machine. Heck, cooking oil might work. :nixweiss:
I'm just trying to tell you what its SUPPOSED to have in the different locations. I've been doing this for a long time. I'm not just guessing or trying to tell you to buy only Polaris branded fluids
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Your picture on the right is engine oil... synthetic 0w-40. There's all kinds of substitutes. I use nothing but Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w-40 for the older machines. I've got nearly 20,000 miles on my 2006 Sportsman 800 and its never had any other oil since new.
Your picture on the left is just a quick reference. You need to look at the reference pages given to get the details.
Polaris refers to ALL their drivetrain units kinda generically as "gearcases". If you look closely, the ONLY substitute listed is for the REAR GEARCASE. Like I told you before, 80w-90 is just fine for that one. Its just a simple straight gearcase and uses regular gear oil.
The transmission or what Polaris calls simply THE gearcase and is actually a chaincase. It uses a different type and viscosity of oil. It is MUCH thinner than the stuff that goes in the rear. Its made to stick to and sling around internally on the silent chains that are the heart of your tranny. Look at the reference pages in your manual if you don't believe me. IT IS NOT 80W-90!!! Years ago Polaris recommended using the same engine oil in the tranny as was used in the engine. That will still work, it always did, but now they have a special blend for that purpose. The only other specifically recommended substitute I'm aware of is Amsoil Chaincase Lubricant. I think there are some other CHAINCASE LUBRICANTS on the market now but I have no experience with them.
Your front drive unit that contains the Hilliard clutch that gives you AWD uses a 10w hydraulic type oil that Polaris calls Demand Drive. Polaris refers to it as a "Front Housing" rather than a gearcase. For many years Polaris recommended ATF as a substitute and many folks still use ATF today with good results.
Use whatever slick liquid you want, Its your machine. Heck, cooking oil might work. :nixweiss:
I'm just trying to tell you what its SUPPOSED to have in the different locations. I've been doing this for a long time. I'm not just guessing or trying to tell you to buy only Polaris branded fluids
Nothing personal. Just repeating what I read in the manual. When Polaris recommends the same thing under their brand name for both units and says "this is a substitute" for one of them, doesn't it stand to reason that it should be a substitute for both? Just looking at it logically... I might end up with the Polaris magic oil in the end, but I want to look at possible substitutes first.
 
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