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Discussion Starter #1
1996 Magnum 6x6 new belt won't slip. Do I have EBS and a rusted bearing, or am I getting too much friction from the central shaft or the sheaves of the drive clutch?
Is the belt supposed to slip on the drive or driven clutch?
 

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1996 Magnum 6x6 new belt won't slip. Do I have EBS and a rusted bearing, or am I getting too much friction from the central shaft or the sheaves of the drive clutch?
Is the belt supposed to slip on the drive or driven clutch?
Drive or Primary. The secondary is always ''attached''

When riding if you let off does it just roll or slow down?

CW
 

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seems like it slows, I am trying to recover it for father-in-law who put a new belt and then parked it for 2 years. The clutch case was filled with mouse house. I have increased the shims in the driven clutch till the belt was just flopping, still total drag. I polished the sheaves of both clutches with emory and scotchbrite.
Is the center of the drive clutch a roller bearing? It should freewheel in a clockwise direction (engine stopped) to allow the belt to slip, until the drive clutch sheaves compress and grab the belt? Is that correct? And if EBS, then that central shaft would only turn one way?

I am starting to think I have a mouse-pee rusted center shaft bearing that does not slip? Any info appreciated, I already have too much time spent with my head inside this thing!
 

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That's a good call and I agree, your probably correct it should would be corrosive...

Pull the belt than the primary and disassemble. Ill bet you find exactly that. BTW, Its a one way bearing.

cW
 

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EBS the belt it tight down in the primary if no EBS the belt is lose on the primary.
 

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PROBLEM SOLVED - belt won't slip

Hey kids, here is a novel solution.
I was working on a 6x6 Magnum that was left idle for a year or two and now the belt would not slip at idle. Messed with driven clutch spacers, driven clutch alignment, polished surfaces of both clutches, lubed drive clutch. Still, I finally figured out, the gap between sheaves on the drive clutch was too small for the new belt. Found the old belt, still the same!

Well, the entire clutch compartment was paced solid with mouse house when I started on this project - life on the farm! I had cleaned all this out.

I removed the drive clutch top plate and coil spring and was pulling/pushing the moving sheave in and out, and noticed that when it bottomed out on the pull, it had a sort of soft 'clang' at the limit. I went looking to see how the limit was determined.

There are three curved arms (that do NOT want to be removed) and at full travel - idle- they bottom out on bolts hidden underneath them.

Well, the problem was 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick layer of felt packed between the bolts and the lever arms - compressed fur and mouse house that was never going to compress any further!

I scraped this out with a screwdriver and compressed air, and we are back on the road! Thanks to all of you for your suggestions.
 
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