So I recently removed stator for replacement of crank seal. During removal screwed bolt too far and hit coils in two separate places chipping off some of the shielding . Attempted repair with some all purpose sealer. Not sure if successful. Also the ends on coils which make contact with magnets are very grooved/worn. At the same time I had the cylinder at shop getting honed. Put all back together after getting parts back from shop and now it will start and run sometimes for only a bit and usually only using Carb cleaner. But will foul plugs and backfired once also makes loud noises. I’m leaning more toward fuel/air/carb issues on that side of it. Mixed 32-1. No air filter box or filter installed. Oil line not hooked up as cable is broken. So nipple is not covered. Don’t know if that would be enough to do anything. Also no choke cable installed. Anyhow I could just go on all day but I just want to verify the tests I am doing are correct to test the stators integrity. So I got the Haynes manual because I was tired of trying to guess on my methods yet almost left me more confused. So there is the connector which has the 3 pins from stator. My understanding is to test between 1-2 1-3 an 2-3 yet looking at the specs I see 1990-on 2 stroke except 400 w/200 watt alternator yellow/red-yellow=.3 ohms and black/red-brown/white=120 ohms although that only gives me 2 readings not 3 as I’m supposed to make 3 tests at connector. Also the wire colors do not correspond with the year or model I’m working on. They are the same colors as it shows for the 90-95 trailblazer which maybe a suitable replacement part for the trailboss. Dunno. There are wires of that color that come from stator wiring to test which I got 0 ohms between red/yellow and yellow and 115 ohms between black/red and brown/white. Which seem to be within spec. But I moved on to probe between all 3 terminals at plug to ground. There is black/red, brown/white and white. White wire has continuity to ground. Does that mean I’m screwed or am I testing incorrectly. Please advise. Thanks
figerin it oot
How to correctly test stator
Ok thanks. So would there be any concern of the stator having heavy grooving and me smashing the sides with bolts? As long as the readings are ok?
Ok just as I figured. Thanks. I’ll plan on getting one. I believe at one point I ran across one on Amazon.
The money is adding up really quickly on this thing. I just bought it a couple months ago for 650 sight unseen and bought 200 worth of parts already also need tires and primary clutch for sure and the secondary has something floating around in it and so on. I could easily see spending an additional 1000 and have a poorly polished turd. Does anyone have advice as to if this this is actually worth fixing up as I see the value in excellent condition at 900-1000 and It’s maybe fair. If so any ideas of a good place to get a decent primary and secondary clutch that isn’t garbage
I think I will do a separate post for questions about parts and such as this one is just stator related. Thanks for your help guys. I appreciate you and happy turkeys
The stator does not have any power to it - it generates the power to create spark and charge the battery.
I have no clue as to what you are asking - the stator is an assembly - install it and it's done - what does what align with what and how would you align it?
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