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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This was done on a 2007 sportsman 500 X2, but if the starter is on top of your motor it should be very similar.

After lots of searching i found people saying a couple different ways to get the starter out. The easiest way was to remove the starter below the airbox. So i did that today.

Polaris wanted $80 for the rebuild kit, or $400 for a new one. DB Electrical has rebuilt ones for $43 w/ free shipping. Polaris starter # 3084981

No fancy tools needed just a 10mm wrench, pliers, hammer, screwdriver and a torx t25.

First off disconnect your ground. remove your seat and un bolt your airbox. You will see the starter on top of the motor.

Next you will need to loosen off all the hose clamps for both breathing tubes and any other tubes or wires in your way. It will be very self explanatory.

You will need the torx t-25 bit to move the brake fluid filler tube out of the way. 2 bolts.
Moved the brake fluid filler.


The starter is only held in with 2 10mm bolts. The one on the left will be too long to pull out while in the machine so you need to back it out as far as it will go.
10mm wrench


Screw too long to come out.


The starter itself will be pressure fitted in so i used a long screwdriver and a hammer. And hit the end of the screwdriver from the right side of the machine to push it out till it was loose.

Then turn the starter to the right, or towards the other hole. It will all come out together.

That is it.. probably took 30 mins. not even.









done.. awaiting new starter.


Starter arrived in less then a week. Install was the same but reverse.
Pics.





My shop... glad it decided to snow today. :p
 

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Nice write-up, maybe this can get moved to the how to section :thinking:


Rather be riding, instead I'm using Tapatalk
 

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Great threads! Moved to the how-to section to get some exposure.
Thanks BL :veryhappy:


Rather be riding, instead I'm using Tapatalk
 

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Hello forum, I have a 2005 Sportsman 500 H.O., and I was wonering if the install will be the same as pictured above. I only have 80 hrs on the bike - I just use it for track days, and racing events mostly. I was really surprised that this happened so soon, or with so few miles.

I have one more tidbit of info, it happened at last track day. I finished the day with the pull start, and now it seems that the pull start has no torque when being pulled. It retracts, but has no pull on the engine. I can pull it, but its like pulling a string with no resistance that just retracts.

Thank you for your input, help, and keeping this forum alive.

~Todd
 

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We just did the same thing on our 2007 500. starter from DB electric rebuilders, also replaced the bendix ($25).

Ours was not a X2, the bottom screw was a booger, just enough room , the head hits the back of the cover behind the clutch assembly. had to use ong needlenose and wrench, turning aobut 1/4 turn at a time.

the bottom screw is tricky, but it can be done.
 

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We just did the same thing on our 2007 500. starter from DB electric rebuilders, also replaced the bendix ($25).

Ours was not a X2, the bottom screw was a booger, just enough room , the head hits the back of the cover behind the clutch assembly. had to use ong needlenose and wrench, turning aobut 1/4 turn at a time.

the bottom screw is tricky, but it can be done.
Thanks for your reply.

Excuse my lack of knowledge, what a bendix? Moreover, did you get "STARTER DRIVE Combo" part number "SMU0061K 18645?" What is that little part with the starter (is it the bendix)? Shouldn't I just replace that part with the "STARTER DRIVE Combo" anyways, since I'm already there?


Any ideas as to why my pull start won't make a compression stroke?

Thanks, Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
UPDATE:
Well i blew the starter, again.... In the future i wouldnt replace a starter without replacing the bendix... takes a extra 20 mins.
After buying another starter, a generic solenoid, and a bendix. I got them all locally from brighouse auto electric in richmond bc. $50 for starter and bendix, $20 for solenoid. All in stock. Poalris wanted $400 for starter, $200 for bendix and $80 for solenoid i think??

I took the bike apart and found that the bendix was not releasing. So basically the starter was turning as fast as the flywheel was and fried it.

Its very simple, just take the 9 or so 8mm bolts around the recoil housing out, and the bendix will basically come out with a wiggle.

The generic solenoid was very simple install as well, and a third of the price of the polaris one. I cut the wires from the old solenoid so i still had the clip. Wired up the same. Yellow wire was the ignition. Blue was the grounded wire. As the solenoid needed them to be a cetain way.

but everything went easy. Any questions just ask.
Pics:
Stuck in the engaged position.

The recoil housing removed. You can see where the bendix sits right about the flywheel.

Bendix 's

New starter and generic solenoid.
 

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Yeah, I will need to do both as well. I noticed that on this thread, it was suggested to do the bendix with the starter.

I always noticed a weird noise when starting my 4 wheeler from the pull-start side for years. I took it to Polaris and they told me it was normal. Besides price - another reason to DIY.

Judging from the symptoms, the starter stopped working, the battery was still good, and finally the pull string quit working. Seems I have a severe case of Polaris-starter-itus, I will take surgery pics as well, and post here afterwards.

Thanks forum, If there's any advice, please tell me - I need it...
 

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We just did the same thing on our 2007 500. starter from DB electric rebuilders, also replaced the bendix ($25).

Ours was not a X2, the bottom screw was a booger, just enough room , the head hits the back of the cover behind the clutch assembly. had to use ong needlenose and wrench, turning aobut 1/4 turn at a time.

the bottom screw is tricky, but it can be done.
My bottom screw on my 500 is just sitting there not screwed in.. I could not get it to thread in... so hopfully the top screw is enough to hold it in... the bike is not ridden aggressively so I am not too worried about it...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Place a flathead behind the head of the bottom screw and apply some pressure in while turning the wrench , it will thread back in.


And as for the guy with the problem starting. You wont really know whats wrong till you get everything apart. When you take the recoil housing off you will be able to diagnose both your pull start and your bendix ( = starter drive)
 

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Place a flathead behind the head of the bottom screw and apply some pressure in while turning the wrench , it will thread back in.


And as for the guy with the problem starting. You wont really know whats wrong till you get everything apart. When you take the recoil housing off you will be able to diagnose both your pull start and your bendix ( = starter drive)
The starter drive is different from the bendix...right? I was going to go with this combo right here...

DB Electrical - STARTER DRIVE Combo POLARIS ATV 325 335 425 500 PA102 COMBO SMU0061K 18645

I was going to assume that I had the same problem as you, or at least it make sense to me that I did from your posts. The bendix is the part that you should of replaced with the starter the first time right? I'm going to replace both when I tear it down, but what are your thoughts?

My particular situation, if the bendix is malfunctioning, then isn't it plausible that it's why the pull-start won't make a compression stroke? The 4-wheeler ran fine right up till it quit starting from the pull-start. Previously, the battery had sat in storage, but it started first try. By the end of the weekend it wouldn't start under the electric start. I used the pull-start till the end of the day (Sunday), got it home, and used the pull-start to get it off the trailer. The next morning, I went to put it up, and the pull-start went limp after the first pull. By limp, I mean it will recoil, but would not make a compression stroke. When I put the new battery in it had the same exact behavior as it did when it wouldn't start before I started to use the pull-start. I even hit the side of the pull case with a rubber mallet as per a thread out here, but it was to no avail.

Now I'm starting to think that the reason some need to hit the pull-start side is, because of the bendix malfunctioning, or ready to fail...

I thought I had a grip on this situation, what do y'all think? Am I wrong on with what I'm assuming?
 

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Bendix is a brand name for a starter drive, like mentioned above.

Place a flathead behind the head of the bottom screw and apply some pressure in while turning the wrench , it will thread back in.


And as for the guy with the problem starting. You wont really know whats wrong till you get everything apart. When you take the recoil housing off you will be able to diagnose both your pull start and your bendix ( = starter drive)
The starter drive is different from the bendix...right? I was going to go with this combo right here...

DB Electrical - STARTER DRIVE Combo POLARIS ATV 325 335 425 500 PA102 COMBO SMU0061K 18645

I was going to assume that I had the same problem as you, or at least it make sense to me that I did from your posts. The bendix is the part that you should of replaced with the starter the first time right? I'm going to replace both when I tear it down, but what are your thoughts?

My particular situation, if the bendix is malfunctioning, then isn't it plausible that it's why the pull-start won't make a compression stroke? The 4-wheeler ran fine right up till it quit starting from the pull-start. Previously, the battery had sat in storage, but it started first try. By the end of the weekend it wouldn't start under the electric start. I used the pull-start till the end of the day (Sunday), got it home, and used the pull-start to get it off the trailer. The next morning, I went to put it up, and the pull-start went limp after the first pull. By limp, I mean it will recoil, but would not make a compression stroke. When I put the new battery in it had the same exact behavior as it did when it wouldn't start before I started to use the pull-start. I even hit the side of the pull case with a rubber mallet as per a thread out here, but it was to no avail.

Now I'm starting to think that the reason some need to hit the pull-start side is, because of the bendix malfunctioning, or ready to fail...

I thought I had a grip on this situation, what do y'all think? Am I wrong on with what I'm assuming?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah that is the correct combo..
you might want to take your recoil housing off first , make sure your starter drive / bendix actually needs replacing. Literally takes 5 mins..
 

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dog812, take the recoil housing off first and check what first? That that piece (the other part in the combo that I showed? Moreover, what is that part called?) is functioning properly? How do I check my starter drive?

I'm really new to this, so thank you for everyone's patience, and help.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
dog812, take the recoil housing off first and check what first? That that piece (the other part in the combo that I showed? Moreover, what is that part called?) is functioning properly? How do I check my starter drive?

I'm really new to this, so thank you for everyone's patience, and help.
you will see in my latest pics on this thread, the picture of the bendix or starter drive, whatever you want to call it.
It sits just on top of the fly wheel basically.. as soon as you open the recoil housing, it will basically be the only other thing in there.
It will just come out, no tools. Make sure its extending and retracting. Mine, as you can see from the picture, was stuck in the extended position..
The recoil housing removed. You can see where the bendix sits right above the flywheel. You can see the little indent where the end sits.

Bendix 's


Basically your starter turns, the motion causes the starter drive to extend, the teeth grab the flywheel , turns it and starts the bike. Then when you turn the key back, the starter stops and the starter drive should retract back so its not touching the flywheel anymore. Or what happened in my case, it did not retract and was spinning as fast as the flywheel was spinning, which was too fast for the starter and burnt it out.
 

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bendix = starter drive (on the flywheel)
starter = starter

That threw me for a loop.

I firmly believe that what happened to you is what has happened to me. My bendix was not releasing immediately and burnt my starter out. The sound it made when I started it was always a horrible sound on the flywheel side. I will look at the bendix first, take some pics, and get back out here. I want to order the parts now, but I will wait until I see the bendix. I will have to wait till the start of next week one way or another, because...

I am currently waiting for a new coil-pack on a street bike, so I have to wait a few days. Moreover, one of my plug wires has to be ordered from Japan. Yeah! I have a garage stall for all my motorcycles, and have a method to my madness for tear down. I only have so much space that I'm afraid of getting the two bikes confused one way or another. Like I said, limited DIY capabilities.

Thanks for the help dog!
 

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stripped starter bolt

i replcaed the bendix in my 2006 sportsman and had some problems while trying to take off the starter. the bolt that will not back out all the way has becomed stripped to some degree because i messed up. any idea how to get that bolt out given the circumstances?
 
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