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Discussion Starter #1
There are tons of advantages to switching to synthetic winch lines on your ATVs. Lighter weight, safer pulls, and best of all, instant repairs if you have a failure of your line while doing a pull. If you are caught with a broken line during a pull you can splice it back together in no time and be winching in 15 minutes or less and heres how.

All you need is a few simple tools and a couple sets of instructions in your toolkit.

Tools:

Sharp Scissors, or Blade
Electrical Tape
Sharpie Marker
Tubular Rope Fid about 1/2 the diameter of your rope line and at least 4-6 inches long



Formal Instructions:

Eye Splice

End Splice

First you need to measure out the length of your repair. I like to use 2 times the length of the tool that you are using to tread your taper tail down the center of the rope. Make a mark at one length, and a second mark at the second length. The second mark will be where you stick the tail thru your line at.



Now just past the 1st mark you made mark 3 pairs of rope to cut to make your tapered tail.



Pull those threads out of the line and cut them off.



Your tail should now look like this



The end of your rope should now have only six strands, instead of twelve. Take the end of your rope with 6 strands, and slip your fid thru the center of the rope and tape it to your fid.





Thread your taped fid thru your hook and back into the center of the rope, at your 2nd mark.




You now have a very large loop in the end of your rope. Push the end of the rope up through the middle of the rope. You'll need to kind of "bunch up" the rope to loosen it up enough to push the other rope through the middle.



As you bury more and more or the end of the rope, the loop will get smaller and smaller. Eventually you will have the loop very tight around the hook. Pull the end of the rope out so you can pull it nice and tight around the hook. Remove whatever object you taped to the end of the rope to guide it through, and pull the rope tight to re-bury the end. You may have to cut a little off the very end of the rope to get it all to re-bury itself. You have a completed eye splice.







After getting it tight around your hook, pull down and away from the hook on the outer wrap to lock the splice in place.

The end splice is exactly the same except that you now have to create two tapered tails and bury each tail into the two sections of winch line to create the splice. Just in case you break your line in the middle of a pull.

With a little patience you can repair any line in minutes.
 

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B-E-A-utiful write up. you forgot one more thing about a big advantage to synethic winch rope, most have a much higher tensel strength then the steel cable.

very nice!
 

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learn something new every day thanks for the info :chairshot:
 

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just like repairing a ski rope. for a permanent repair,after you've done all that ,grab a needle and some fishing line and sew across and thru the rope, only takes a few stiches.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
just like repairing a ski rope. for a permanent repair,after you've done all that ,grab a needle and some fishing line and sew across and thru the rope, only takes a few stiches.
Your right I left out that part. On the trail you really don't need to do that part. I have found that If you bury a tail long enough you don't "really" need to do the lock stitch at all. The rope doesn't slip at all under tension. Lock stitching is just an additional layer of protection.
 

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How do u fix a steel winch cable. Mine is frayed only at the end from my plow. Can I cut a couple feet off and re loop and clamp it or just get new cable?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How do u fix a steel winch cable. Mine is frayed only at the end from my plow. Can I cut a couple feet off and re loop and clamp it or just get new cable?
I would just get a new Synthetic cable!!

In a pinch you can cut it and reclamp it down. You will alway have a weak point doing it that way.
 

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Great write up! Mine got damaged the other day before I saw this thread. After studding how it was done at the factory I Took a screwdriver and opened the rope (like a drill hole) 4 times and fed the rope through like a double S. Your way looks much cleaner.
 

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Great write up! Mine got damaged the other day before I saw this thread. After studding how it was done at the factory I Took a screwdriver and opened the rope (like a drill hole) 4 times and fed the rope through like a double S. Your way looks much cleaner.
Yeah your way works too but this way is more permanent.
 

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Hollow braid splices

Thor, doing it the way you described probably reduces your breaking strength by 50%. The strongest hollow braid splices are made by burying the tail into the rope giving you over 90% of your breaking strength. Instructions for doing various locked and unlocked splices in hollow braid can be found all over the internet by looking up "Splicing Hollow Braid". A friend of mine owns a braided rope factory and he showed me how to splice single and double braided ropes. Some electrical tape, a sharp knife and a piece of wire are all that's needed for any kind of splice. Synthetics are easy to repair in the field but protecting them against abrasion is an absolute necessity. It's the main reason they break.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Been a long time since this post!!
 

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This was a great post.

After a 2nd break I went from the Warn 3K rope to our new 1/4 inch 40 foot 8600 lb test synthetic rope. I also have a winch bumper installed to protect the fairlead. Never had a problem after that! I also installed it on our new RZR with a 66 blade & electronic power turn. After this winters 54 + inches of abuse and the weight of the plow system the rope still looks like new!

Replacement synthetic rope kit. --> http://www.theatvsuperstore.com/Replacement-Synthetic-Rope-Fairlead-kit-p/synthetickit.htm

 

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So all you did was basically back feed 1/2 the rope into itself? You don't have to do like the poly rope Australian or British fellow did by weaving it back & forth 4 times before he back feed it? BTW Great tutorial !!!! Thank you very much for the information!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So all you did was basically back feed 1/2 the rope into itself? You don't have to do like the poly rope Australian or British fellow did by weaving it back & forth 4 times before he back feed it? BTW Great tutorial !!!! Thank you very much for the information!

The weaving is not really needed on quad ropes. You are not pulling 10,000lbs. The tension from the pull will keep everything in place.

Used this technique for years, never had a problem.
 

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thank you original poster!! This is super easy and super strong!! one question, what is the best thing to use as a fid?
 

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thank you original poster!! This is super easy and super strong!! one question, what is the best thing to use as a fid?
Glad to see people still looking for this information.

I just went to harbor freight and picked up a pair of large needles for $1.00. I filed down the end to make it blunt and it works great. Just tape the loose end of your tail right to it.

Works great.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

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large needle? like what kind of a large needle? what is it's original purpose? what did you have to grind down? the point ? How big around do you think it is?
 

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large needle? like what kind of a large needle? what is it's original purpose? what did you have to grind down? the point ? How big around do you think it is?
Looks like a large hand stitching sowing needle.... and it looks like grinding down the point as the eye is still there..... just go ask your wife, if you don't comprehend! :D :fing02:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
large needle? like what kind of a large needle? what is it's original purpose? what did you have to grind down? the point ? How big around do you think it is?
Looks like a large hand stitching sowing needle.... and it looks like grinding down the point as the eye is still there..... just go ask your wife, if you don't comprehend! :D :fing02:
That's exactly what it is. A tarp sowing needle with the sharp end ground down. You don't need it to be sharp.

There's a picture of it in the original post.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 
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