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There are several tests for the stator - how thorough do you want to be?
Static tests - engine not running:
Test #1 - put meter leads across the battery terminals - standing DCV should be 12.2 minimum with the key on - if not, charge the battery fully using an automatic 1.25A or less battery charger. When the battery is fully charged, let stand (not connected to anything) for minimum of 4 hours and then check the DCV - should be minimum 12.8v and may be as high as 13.2 or higher. Install the battery - with the meter connected, turn the key on (lights off if possible) - battery voltage should hover around 12.6 to 13v. Try cranking the engine - battery voltage should not drop below 10.5 while cranking. If the battery does not hold up to these measurements, replace the battery and move on to the stator.
Test #2 - Unplug from the rec/reg and check each phase (yellow wire) to ground - should be open loop (infinite resistance) any continuity to ground and it is bad
Test #3 - continuity and resistance - check any pair of the 3 yellow (white, black, blue they are 3 same color wires) - they should have continuity to any pair and the resistance should be appx. the same. Book specs .19 ohms, but will vary with the meter used. As long as they have appx the same for this part of the test they are fine.
Dynamic tests - engine runnning:
Test #4 - put the meter across the battery terminals and rev the engine to appx 3000 RPM - if the voltage across the battery is over 14.8 volts, switch the meter to ACV and see if there is a steady AC reading or random. Random is good and steady indicates a grounded stator. If the stator is grounded, no further testing is needed - replace the stator. If the DCV is equal to or less than battery voltage and dropping, continue to test the AC output of the stator.
Test #5 - with the stator unplugged from the rec/reg; measure the ACV between each pair of yellow wires - may be as low as 15v at idle and as high as 90v or more at 3000 and above RPM. Testing above 3000 RPM is not necessaryand the voltage should be appx. the same for each pair of wires.
Test #6 - ACV to ground - should be zero
Test #7 - stator output under load - connect the stator to the rec/reg (this part of the test requires jumper leads or piercing of the stator leads insulation) - with the engine running about 3000 RPM, measure the ACV on each pair of stator leads - must be 30v or higher on each pair (phase). If any pair of stator wires indicates less than 30v or if the ACV varies more than 10v per phase, replace the stator.
I believe that's all there is to it. If I missed a step, advise me.
Static tests - engine not running:
Test #1 - put meter leads across the battery terminals - standing DCV should be 12.2 minimum with the key on - if not, charge the battery fully using an automatic 1.25A or less battery charger. When the battery is fully charged, let stand (not connected to anything) for minimum of 4 hours and then check the DCV - should be minimum 12.8v and may be as high as 13.2 or higher. Install the battery - with the meter connected, turn the key on (lights off if possible) - battery voltage should hover around 12.6 to 13v. Try cranking the engine - battery voltage should not drop below 10.5 while cranking. If the battery does not hold up to these measurements, replace the battery and move on to the stator.
Test #2 - Unplug from the rec/reg and check each phase (yellow wire) to ground - should be open loop (infinite resistance) any continuity to ground and it is bad
Test #3 - continuity and resistance - check any pair of the 3 yellow (white, black, blue they are 3 same color wires) - they should have continuity to any pair and the resistance should be appx. the same. Book specs .19 ohms, but will vary with the meter used. As long as they have appx the same for this part of the test they are fine.
Dynamic tests - engine runnning:
Test #4 - put the meter across the battery terminals and rev the engine to appx 3000 RPM - if the voltage across the battery is over 14.8 volts, switch the meter to ACV and see if there is a steady AC reading or random. Random is good and steady indicates a grounded stator. If the stator is grounded, no further testing is needed - replace the stator. If the DCV is equal to or less than battery voltage and dropping, continue to test the AC output of the stator.
Test #5 - with the stator unplugged from the rec/reg; measure the ACV between each pair of yellow wires - may be as low as 15v at idle and as high as 90v or more at 3000 and above RPM. Testing above 3000 RPM is not necessaryand the voltage should be appx. the same for each pair of wires.
Test #6 - ACV to ground - should be zero
Test #7 - stator output under load - connect the stator to the rec/reg (this part of the test requires jumper leads or piercing of the stator leads insulation) - with the engine running about 3000 RPM, measure the ACV on each pair of stator leads - must be 30v or higher on each pair (phase). If any pair of stator wires indicates less than 30v or if the ACV varies more than 10v per phase, replace the stator.
I believe that's all there is to it. If I missed a step, advise me.
