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Hey guys
I'm in the process of replacing the magnetic coils on the front hubs.I've come across a bit of a problem. Got the old ones off ok.but on trying to install the new ones. They will NOT go on. I bought oem replacement coils for the machine so I know they are the right ones. Problem is they are not going over lip of hub..just too tight.all I need is about a 16th of an inch or less. I've tried sanding the bottom edge so it wasn't so sharp. Didn't help. Tryed applying a dab of grease to try and roll it on..Didn't help. I ended up breaking one trying to install it with silicone. As most of you know.. They are pricey..so I'm not wanting to break another. Any tricks or tips or ideas to get these buggers to slip over without busting them would be great. Thanks you.
 

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The lip is not supposed to be there. Mine looked like it was part of the design, but it most certainly isn't, as I learned when I did the other side (other side was mint - no lip). Guessing your armature plate is toast? If not, at some point there was a hub /hub seal failure and it burred the edge of the strut where the coil goes on. Just finished doing mine...new coils, sleeves and seals. You should be able to salvage it, unless it's been done too many times before and you're running out of depth on the strut. Just debur it using a file or a little grinding tool until the coil slides on. As you know, trying to force it over is an $80 lesson. Plastic housing is too brittle. Also make sure that the face of the inner pole (that you are sliding the coil on - this is the inner pole that creates the magnetic field, while the outer edge of the sleeve is the outer pole) is flat and flush. Remove burs on the face of this and if one side is high, gently file it down. If the armature plate is not flush with the entire circumference you will not get sufficient magnetism for the hubs to engage. Also, make sure there is 0, or no more than .01 clearance measured between the faces of the two poles when mounting the sleeve. Same reason - any variance in the distance between the two poles will cause the armature plate to hover over one of the poles, rather than sit flush on both, and you'll lose magnetism. Run a straight edge across the face of both poles and using a feeler gauge, make sure there is no clearance. The part to be careful about is tapping the sleeve on. Go to far and create a negative variance and you'll have to either tap it back out without damaging it or start over again with a new sleeve. To test, start the quad turn the AWD on, put it in gear and the armature plate should stick to the face of the poles and be difficult to remove. Good luck!
 

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A great write up on how these hubs work and the need for sufficient magnetism is here: http://www.polarisatvforums.com/for...illiard-clutch-troubleshooting-diagnoses.html

The armature plate has 3 little tabs that lock into the hilliard clutch. When the AWD is kicked on, the magnetism created between the two poles on the strut and the sleeve grabs the armature plate, which creates drag on the outer cage of the hilliard, while the inner nut, of course, continues on the same speed as the axle (given that it is mounted on splines). This drag causes the locking pins of the hilliard to spread out and grab inside the hub. When you turn AWD off, the drag disappears and the spring around the hilliard pulls them back in. This process is delicate, which is why if you make the mistake of slopping grease into the bearings, your hubs won't engage properly. Tranny fluid only! Maybe hit the back strut bearing with a light coating of grease, because the fluid reaches there last. But otherwise no grease!!
 

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Here is a picture of me measuring the variance between the face of the outer sleeve and the face of the inner pole, using a file as a straight edge. I only had a .02 inch feeler, but couldn't fit it behind the file on either pole and saw no light. This is the side I had to file the lip off and clean up the face of the inner pole. It also passed the magnetic force test - very tough to pull armature plate off.
 

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