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Discussion Starter #1
I need help finding the inspection port to see the Top Dead Center TDC flywheel timing mark. The shop manual states the port is in the recoil starter housing.

We found a bolt on the top and bottom of the housing but have not found any TDC mark or any marks when the top timing chain marks are in line where they should be at top dead center.

We have not pulled the cam yet but want to see the marks and orientation of everything so we can take a picture before the tear down. Our rod bearing inserts and circlips came in so I am going to get them. The HF spline socket set did not include the 12 mm so I need to stop at NAPA I guess.

Thanks for any help of finding TDC mark on the fly wheel through the rope starter housing.
 

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You may have to take the recoil cover off to shine up the TDC mark enough to be able to see it through the hole when you put the cover back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. When we pulled the recoil cover there was the TDC mark. :)

We are going to leave the cover off so we can turn the crank to see if we are going to be able to get the bearing material off of the crank without splitting the case.

The rod spun but there was still insert material between the crank and the connecting rod but it was getting very thin. The rear side of the piston is scuffed and the same place the bore showed some lines but it was not easy to feel them. The connecting rod was black for about 2" from the wrist pin hole and the wrist pin showed signs of heating.

The rain has moved in and I knew the old garage had a leak but I thought I knew were it was. It turned out to be were we set the 300 pound 3x5' steel work bench. :( Well at least we have some 5 gallon buckets and a new tarp to cover the work bench area for the night which we need to get done before we call it a day.

Over all a good day. Pulling off the rod cap went well using the 12mm socket that was welded 180 degrees (flipped end to end) with a 13mm socket. We have been working to prefect a way to reinstall the rod cap if we are successful at removing bearing material from the crank so we can see how it looks.

Since it is a hobby project we can do it any way we wish but splitting the case would be the only way to do it right. Our other 325 that just lost compression I kind of wanted to put new bearing in the rod when we tear into it so we are testing the concept of replacing inserts without cracking the case.

I think the owner rode it longer than he thought after the oil line blew going down the highway.
 

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Yep, been there and done that. I usually take file or marker and make a good clear mark so it's easier to see on reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was looking for the picture in the shop manual and realized it was through the port and the pointer was on the pull start cover and the mark on the flywheel.

Since we got the crank polished up some and the connecting rod back on hopefully we will get it running soon. The next step is to get the timing chain back on the crank shaft gear because since we used the starter rope in polishing the crank we did not want the timing chain moving. :)

This ATV was nice and clean under the pull rope housing. Other than the blown engine it really is a clean tight ATV.
 
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