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Key things to water proof for going deep?

14K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  lost cause 
#1 ·
Besides it being snorkled and putting dielectric grease on everything what else need I do to my 2012 Sportsman 850xp?

Thanks
 
#4 ·
Pull every electrical connection apart and put a nice coat of dielectric grease on the rubber boot plug and connections. Small model type brush works well to apply. Also, fill up your spark plug boots as well (I use lots in the boots). You can also get some WD40 silicone spray and hit those hard to reach electric connections and I always soak my cv boots in silicone and they still look new.

Always hit all your grease zerks liberally prior to and after a weekend of dunking. I use Mystik red but the marine type is a bit more water repellant. All grease repels water and I'm just partial to the red stuff.
 
#7 ·
I try to keep the water below my ass so no snorkels. Hasn't always worked out that way!
 

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#6 ·
Don't forget to snorkel the diff cents and the tranny vent. Also I would vent the cap on the overflow coolant reservoir. When you dip into a puddle the coolant cools and sucks in air or water if the cap is under water and the dirty water will wear out your water pump seal.

Also the fuel tank. My triangle kit came with a couple one way valves for the gas tank and vent.
 
#8 ·
Use red RVT silicone to seal the back side of your clutch cover where it meets the engine and trany. You have to pull the clutches so most people wait until they upgrade their clutching to do it.
 
#11 ·
Not too difficult. Just pull your clutches, take off the back cover, seal it where it meets up to the transmission, and reinstall.
 
#10 ·
Agree with everyone on ensuring all electrical connections are greased, and your airbox lid sealed with silicone. The backside of the clutch cover seems to be hit or miss. Some people have issues with it leaking, and some don't. Mine leaked when it was new.
 
#12 ·
I did my QSC clutch kit on Sunday. Took two min to go ahead an seal up the clutch cover before putting clutches back on. Now it's not hit or miss. I know it won't leak.


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#13 ·
This may sound like a dumb question. But do you guys add the dielectric grease on the inside of the connections or the outside? Only reason i ask is cause i researched die,citric grease applications and they say its a non conductor which screws the electrical connections. Or am i mis understanding something?
 
#15 ·
Yes it goes on the inside.

Non conductive doesn't mean it will cause connections to not work. There will still be physical contact between the pins of the two connectors.
non-conductive means that it won't cause a short.
Think of it this way, if it was conductive and you put it all over the inside of the electrical connectors then it would short all the pins on a connector out, which is what we are trying to prevent the water from doing.
The main thing the grease does is prevent corrosion and create a moisture barrier to keep water out, because unless it's distilled water it's a pretty safe bet that water will conduct and short connectors out.

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#17 ·
I think if you are going that deep, you are doing something wrong.
 
#20 ·
Wait!? What!? Atv's are atv's and submarines are submarines? Mind=Blown. They are also not cars, trucks, snowmobiles, or airplanes. Why do people continue to see the need to post this? We've got it! We (mud/water riders) understand what an All Terrain Vehicle is, and we know how to prepare them to ride in ALL types of terrain. Different people have different needs/wants. Some people like to register them and commute to work with them. Some people haul wood or push snow with them. Some people put tracks on them and use them instead of a snowmobile. Some people like to jump with them. Some people need to put snorkels on them to cross a creek or swamp to get to their deer stand. We all have different needs, and we all understand that there are many things that an ATV is not.
 
#25 ·
I have always just used dielectric grease on the connector and never had any issues out of them.
 
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