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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought this LED light from Bluefireoutdoor
And got this one LED Power: 36W 2800 Lumens (7.5") Light Bar. Now I'm looking for what kind of switch to use and where to mount it on? I thought about putting the switch on headlight pod but where at on the pod would be good location for the switch on my 2012 Sportsman 850 XP Orange Madness?

If you have installed switch on your pod can you show me pix of the location? I plan on hooking up the LED light tomorrow and need to know where on Headlight POD would switch be installed on?




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I can't tell you exactly where to mount it, you can drill it almost anywhere on top to your liking. Just open the pod and look. But what I will say is that your light harness should ideally have a relay in it that is wired after the key.

There is nothing worse than walking away from the bike for a few hours during the day, out in the middle of nowhere, and come back near dark to find your led lights barely flickering from a dead or weak battery. Let me tell you its a sick feeling with a bike with no backup pull starter. Don't ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could you draw a wiring diagram for those LED light to switch? What I plan on doing is run wire from battery to relay then to switch then to light?


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Discussion Starter #5
Should I run the wires from cig lighter to switch to led lights?


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Somebody has got to be better on drawing electric diagrams than me. But typically a relay employs 2 circuits. One that provides the power to the load and one that opens and closes that circuit. (The one that should be after the key) though both could be.

You can get a prewired harness for $15-20 on ebay and I'm pretty sure from a lot of automotive stores. If you get a cheap one, make sure you look at each wiring connector and consider soldering them. Each circuit should be fused. Your little 36W light will only draw 3 amps, so it is likely you could just splice it into your existing light circuit if you wanted and put just about any switch on either the positive or negative line to separately turn on/off the LED and it would all be after the key.

However, if you plan on ever adding much more you will probably need a new circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here's what the wiring looks like now on led light and just need to be connected to switch and switch itself need to be connected to somewhere.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1380945555.423907.jpg


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Red wire to your switch. Your switch to source. Black wire to a good ground. Source depends on how you want it to operate. If you want it totally to work on your switch completely independent of the bike lights, wire it to the accessory plug.

If you want it to operate with your bike lights, but be able to turn it off separately, wire it to your light circuit. If it's a spot light, add it to your pod circuit. If it's a flood light, add it to your low beams.

Not trying to make it complicated. If you just want it to work separately on your switch but be protected from leaving it on accidentally, the accessory plug is a good choice, already fuse protected.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's what I'm thinking of doing. I'll do that sometime tomorrow and will post before and after pixes here. I may go ahead put extreme LED tribal whip while I'm at it tomorrow.

Thanks for feedback on this.


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Consider using Posi-taps to make your wire taps if they are readily available nearby. Way better, I think, than the 3M pliers splicers. But just an opinion. Good luck can't wait to see your pix. Other poster is right on not needing relay for small draw. My LED is 127W.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Where did you get that kind of switch?


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Discussion Starter #15
Ok I started late on this and just finished installing light bar on bumper. I ran the wires from led light bar to the wires of cig lighter and then connected the switch to the cig lighter. The light turned on and when I turned it off, it blew the fuse. Something isn't right here?


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Squirty, it's hard to understand what you did. But it doesn't sound like what we talked about. Disconnect your wires and replace the fuse.

1. Remove your pod top and with a multi meter test the wires to your accessory port. Find the one that reads 12+v on the meter with the key on (and then drops to zero when you turn the key off).

2. Tap that wire with a posi-tap or whatever connector you choose to use. I'd use the same gauge wire on your light. (tinned marine is even better). The other end of this goes to your 12v switch input. Another length of wire goes from the load (output side of the switch) to the red lead on your light.

3. The black wire from your light either gets grounded to the frame or the engine block or you can tap it into the OTHER accessory wire (negative).

The key should be off during your wire tapping and wiring connections so you are not dealing with hot wires.

Does this sound like what you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did remove the pod and found the hot wire from cig lighter. Here's the diagram of what I did. I think I may have to run the black wire to somewhere else to ground it instead of connect it to cig lighter?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1381026659.628132.jpg


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Discussion Starter #19
Ok. I'll move the black wire to ground somewhere else tomorrow morning.


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NO, the black wire is fine. You need to get the switch off it.

Trying to explain this simpler. If you had no switch in the circuit, the lights would turn on with the key and off with the key. The switch breaks the circuit by opening a gap in it when it is off and completing the circuit (closing it) when it is on.

Wire negative (black) straight from light to negative on accessory (no switch). Red on light to switch. Red from switch to positive (switched) source on accessory.

--------Black---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Negative
LIGHT------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACCESSORY
--------Red------------------------------------------Switch----------------------------------------Positive
 
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