If I switch on the lights on my 2005 ATP500, the engine kills immediately. If, however, I turn the lights on before starting, the motor runs fine (lights shine)for about 90 seconds and then dies. Can anyone help?
Hows the battery? May have a bad cell or it's on the way out..... Does it start with the battery or do you have to recoil start it? I'd start by testing your battery output voltage with a multimeter.... should be over 12.5v when off and 13-14v + (stator) when atv is running.
Could also check the contacts in the switch.... or may have a wire grounding issue. Since the head light and kill switch are near each other on the same switch housing.
Well, I load checked the battery and it is fine. I pinned out the switch and it showed no shorts or opens. So, I soldered up a set of jumper wires and with the switch disconnected, I used them to mimic the kill and light switch functions. Same symptoms--- Rig fires right up, but the instant you jumper to the high or low beam, it kills. If you jumper in either the high or low circuit first and then start the machine, it runs just fine for about 60 seconds and dies.
Any ideas sure would be appreciated. We have a new 5 inches of snow before noon, and another 3-5 expected tonight and I really need this thing running to plow.
What about if you don't monkey with the kill switch or lights after it's running? Does it stop dead.... or sputter out like a fuel issue? Have you cleaned up the contacts in the switch? Checked all wire connections? :dunno:
Did you just check volts with a multimeter..... or actually have the battery load tested?
If I don't monkey with the switches, it runs fine. I took the switch completly apart and cleaned every little part. Don't think the problem is in the switch as I used jumper wires to "replace" it and got the same symptoms. The really odd bit is that if you turn the lights on first, it will start and run for a short time. Some sort of "timed out" issue I guess
Finally got back to this problem. After a lot of volt and amp testing, decided the problem was a faulty circuit breaker. Unfortunately, the breakers are internal to the voltage regulator and not a replaceable part. What were they thinking when they came up with that? Damned if I am going to pay $180 for a new regulator. So, I cut the wires and plumbed in a 20 amp 12V breaker from NAPA. Works great ----so far.
My guess would be wiring for the lights shorting out. A few years ago I had some aftermarket reverse lights I installed without properly protecting the wiring. The wiring chafed and when energized by going into reverse would kill the engine.
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