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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have to change out front and rear bushing and wheel bearings .looking for a good quilts that will last longer and perform better then factory. Also broke front spring . Wondering if its ok to just replace my springs and leaving the shocks . I have a 2013 sportsman 500 with2200 miles on it . For springs I was looking into high lift springs . Thoughts ?
 

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you should be fine with just the springs, i would suggest replacing them both. no history with high lifter springs thought, i recently replaced my rears with EPI heavy duty springs and am pretty happy with them so far.
 

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Member on here jccapri makes bushing for ur bike. Epi and high lifter make a HD spring for ur bike. As far as wheel beareings i went with OEM but heard of all balls and epi aftermarket bearings.
 

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To add grease fittings you'll have to select the location you want them, remove the bushings so you don't drill into them, drill hole at selected location, tap the correct thread size, insert zerk fitting, reinstall bushing, apply grease.

There are new install kits available online and at hardware stores.

I myself am planning on adding fittings to my ball joints and bushings, just need a rainy day and some beers.
 

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JC Capri does not need grease!!! Check them out.




You have to install grease fittings and use them if you want bushings to last.
There's only grease fittings on the front a arms how do I install else where


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I checked with JC myself and he did confirm that you are in fact right... he does not need grease... And from first hand I can say that his bushings are great and well worth the money
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the input . Couldn't find one good web site that sold everything I was looking for so I just went to eBay and got all all balls bearings and bushings and I also got the high lifter springs . That I got trombone of the vendors on here . Thank u now I just have to put back together any one recommend some good grease . I am also going to tap and install those grease fittings in the rear thanks for the help


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Question #1 un-bolt the bracketry from the tranny/rear diff
Question #2 pickle fork and lump hammer
 

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Question #1 un-bolt the bracketry from the tranny/rear diff
Question #2 pickle fork and lump hammer
So don't pull the axel out just info the brackets that hold the a arm on place



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No! You have to pull the axles to get the bolts out. They have a snap ring that holds them in the differential. If you prop the hub on a block you can use a long punch to knock the A arm loose from the ball joint.
 

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Yup just un bolt the bracket. Its a couple of through bolts and a couple of ordinary bolts that attach to the tranny/diff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Question #1 un-bolt the bracketry from the tranny/rear diff
Question #2 pickle fork and lump hammer
So don't pull the axel out just info the brackets that hold the a arm on place



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No! You have to pull the axles to get the bolts out. They have a snap ring that holds them in the differential. If you prop the hub on a block you can use a long punch to knock the A arm loose from the ball joint.
Do I slip that cover back and there's a clip behind that is it a snap ring


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks guys for the help I have it all back together and I could pull the axel so I took the braket off . Broke inner and out clamps on boot in the process . Waiting for them to come in . Also to advise and put those grease fittings good idea thanks



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That sux about the boot clamps. What happens is those snap rings that hold the axels in the tranny/rear diff get corroded and rusted in there and makes for an unpleasant axel removal.
 
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