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Discussion Starter #1
my 2011 xp 550 gave me a engine light and code of 102-3. it is indicating a problem with the T map sensor, I checked the wiring it is fine, it only gives the code when cold after about 5 to 10 minutes of idling the check engine light goes out and the code is gone and stays that way till it cools of again. I read that you can clean it with a electrical cleaner spray, I have not tried that yet. Anybody else had issues with their's?
 

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Yes i have been having problems with mine as well. I get code 102-4 which is for low voltage. I cleaned it with contact cleaner and went for a ride. No codes but then the next ride i was getting the same code again. It seemed to temporarily make everything all better. This issue has been consistantly inconsistant and has been very frustrating. I'm probably a few days away from just replacing the sensor and really hoping that takes care of it.
 

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interesting more guys are not having issues with their's. I sprayed mine with some brake cleaner and it seemed to have helped but i'm probably going to have to replace the sensor, I'm only a month or so out of warranty so it sucks. Let me know if replacing the sensor takes care of it.
 

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interesting more guys are not having issues with their's. I sprayed mine with some brake cleaner and it seemed to have helped but i'm probably going to have to replace the sensor, I'm only a month or so out of warranty so it sucks. Let me know if replacing the sensor takes care of it.
brake part cleaner is probably to corrosive for that job. try some mass air flow sensor cleaner.
 

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interesting more guys are not having issues with their's. I sprayed mine with some brake cleaner and it seemed to have helped but i'm probably going to have to replace the sensor, I'm only a month or so out of warranty so it sucks. Let me know if replacing the sensor takes care of it.
brake part cleaner is probably to corrosive for that job. try some mass air flow sensor cleaner.
didn't know such a cleaner was available. thanks
 

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it subs for a good electronic contact cleaner too. might come in handy on eps relay,if power steering acts up. i use it about once a year on my vehicles. i have a shop manual for these bikes. i'll see if i can find a troubleshooting guide for the t map sensor when i get home. such as an ohm reading etc...
 

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it subs for a good electronic contact cleaner too. might come in handy on eps relay,if power steering acts up. i use it about once a year on my vehicles. i have a shop manual for these bikes. i'll see if i can find a troubleshooting guide for the t map sensor when i get home. such as an ohm reading etc...
that be great!
 

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temp/manifold absolute pressure sensor
mounted on the throttle body intake manifold,the t-map performs two functions in one unit. air passing through the intake is measured by the t-map and relayed to the ecu. these signals comprised of separate air temperature and manifold absolute pressure readings,allow the ecu to adjust the fuel injection requirements according to actual engine load,as well as identify which stroke is the intake stroke. the t-map sensor also provides the ecu with the ability to compensate for high altitude operation with out any recalibration.



the t-map sensor is a nonservicable item.if it is faulty,it must be replaced.the sensor requires 5volt dc input to operate,therefore the t-map sensor should only be tested using the "digital wrench" (t.m.) diagnostic software.(dealer only)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A.K. thanks for the info. Hope this will be the only problem I have with it or it will be history. I traded in a 10 year old Yamaha on it that i never turned a wrench on except for normal maintance.
 

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A.K. thanks for the info. Hope this will be the only problem I have with it or it will be history. I traded in a 10 year old Yamaha on it that i never turned a wrench on except for normal maintance.
dont get me started. im tryin to turn a new leaf.
 

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Sorry for the delay but just got the new sensor installed yesterday and it solved the problem. I even put the old one back in to confirm that the problem would exist again and sure enough it ran rough again.

Good luck with yours
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well just thought I would do an update, since spraying the sensor I have ridden a couple hundred miles now and neither the code or check engine light has returned so it seems to have cured it.
 

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Did the engine run regular?mine had the same 102-3 check engine code today and the engine even stopped once
As this is a year old post, you may find you get a better reply with a PM.

But as I see ATVbud has not been here in some time you likley will
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remember that this step is performed by an air motor on the throttle body and is controlled by the ECU .. which will measure resistance to 6-pin according to the service manual. must take into account the impurities in the body as this will affect
 

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I have same problem but the TMAP did not solve it. Changed plugs, put in known good gas, never run ethanol gas, put in injector cleaner, ran 1/4 tank of gas through it. When engine is below 150 degrees it stumbles and stutters when given throttle. Will die out when first started from over night sit if you touch the throttle till it warms up to above 90 degrees engine temp. THOUGHTS?
 

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Chk the wires to the sensor. They may be worn in some spots causing the stumble.
 

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Chk the wires to the sensor. They may be worn in some spots causing the stumble.
when it reaches engine temps above 125 degrees the engine seem to be some what ok? Still seem to lag on the throttle, popping, but other wise does not stall or severe lag.
On the ranger the pigtail to the harness is less than 5 inches no place for it to rub an no tie straps. I have thought about replacing it, 35 bucks is alot for a pigtail.
 

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OK ran it again and sprayed electrical cleaning fluid at the driver side rubber boot to the throttle body. It stumbled when it hit the top of the boot consitenyl, So it seem i have a leak there.. any thought on best way to resolve?
 

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New boot would be my fix or some rtv.
 
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