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Discussion Starter #1
Replacing my lower ball joints, everything came out smoothly with the grease gun method. Cleaned everything out as best I could.

Went to reinstall the Moose Racing versions, heating the strut housing and freezing the new ball joint worked...to a point?

Seems the hydraulic pressure of the left over grease in the zerk won't let it seat all the way??

I am used to zerks with a hex head to unscrew, but, these don't have one.

What am I missing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Take a small punch and release the pressure from the zerk.
That's a good idea, but, leads me to another idea...just drill out the entire zerk, and fill the hole with a bit of RTV for the time being since AllBalls and Moose ball joints are non greasable.

And if I ever go back to a greasable ball joint, can just tap that hole and put in a screw type zerk, cross that bridge later, if ever.
 

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Can you please explain the grease Gun Method? I am old and dumb and want to learn.
 

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Can you please explain the grease Gun Method? I am old and dumb and want to learn.
Gotta remove the cover plate off the bottom of the strut, and expose that ball joint...hook your grease gun up to the zerk on the strut and pump away! Out slides the old ball joint.

Have used the same method for stuck pistons in calipers.
 

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^^^ Grease gun method is where you remove the ball joint retaining ring and pump grease into the zerk fitting. The hydraulic pressure of the grease drives the joint out. This only works if your quad is so equipped with said ball joint zerk fittings.
 

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on my 99 335 sportsman. the zerk is what they call a drive in type. I just pulled them out. I used a nail puller jaw type. a set of side cutters would work. to pull them out.. I used some brake cleaning and blew some air threw it to be safe but with the zerk out will relieve the pressure and the ball joint should drive in. if and when you replace zerk you should get new ones. most of the time the ears wont hold. they look like there are threads but the are little grooves on them. I put a little grease in mine with a rubber tip on a grease gun. then put in the zerk. so not to push out new joint or a guy could put some wd 40 or pt blaster ect on top of the new joint to stop the deletice corrosion. for next time
 

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grease gun wont work with factory greasable joints the grease will just pump out the ball joint, will work with greaseless aftermarket joints, i used a old wheel bearing as a spacer and put a large washer on top then the nut and screwed it down and it pulled the joint out
 

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ball joint

good trick. I kinda leaned the hard way. I greased 1 side fine. the factory 1. then the other side was hard as h***. duh!! it was not a grease able and bent the bottem plate? that grease has a lot off pressure. that how they move tracks on a dozer! some guys said they drill a small hole in the top of ball joint to make it take grease. don't know have not tried. NOTE to all the grease zerks that are round at base are drive in and the hex heads or threaded.
 
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