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I'm no " expert " but that secondary looks to be spinning wayy to fast

Yours that is
 

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1500 rpm seems to high. Not sure what its supposed to be, but my 850 idles at 1200. Your secondary should not be spinning that fast at idle

So the big question, what does a guy do to try to start experimenting to get the secondary to slow down/slip more at idle/off the gas situation? I'm going to put that extra .030 shim in the primary to try and raise the engagement rpm a few hundred more to see if I like that better than the 2000 rpm current engagemt.
As said in previous post..no expert here. But adding the shim to primary will not change your secondary problem.
I think your on the right track with them misaligned.
 

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IHI.....you're right. The other video you posted is what yours is supposed to look like at idle. The secondary can't be turning when you shift gears or it will shift very hard.
Look at your primary clutch when you can , and see where the belt rides. It should ride in the "middle" and not touch either sheave. It will be touching one sheave for sure because the belt is being turned at idle.
You may have to align your clutches, shim the secondary or you maybe have something wrong with your primary and it's not opening all the way. If you have an EBS clutch, your one way bearing may be shot.....lots of things to check. Check your manual for more details.....
 

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Something is seriously wrong there. Didn't get a real good look at the primary and how the belt is sitting, but it looks to be out of alignment. Looks like belt is riding to the inside of the primary. Pull the secondary off and add a shim or 2 behind it and see where that puts you. 3211153 is the updated P/N for the 13-14 550.

What year is your 550? They lowered the idle on them in 12 I believe from 1750 to about 1400-1500. They do idle higher than the 850 for sure.
 

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I wonder what the difference is between the 23 and 53 belt is?
No idea. It's listed only for the 13-14 550. 3211160 listed for the 14+ 850 and 1000. I'm sure one is probably stronger than the other there, but not sure what could have changed. Maybe they just changed manufacturers for 13?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Machine is a 2014 550xp

tangle foot PM'd me, good eye BTW checking that out since you were correct, and thanks Ryan for the 411 on the update...side note I was hoping that was the eureka moment, but you spoiled my party LOL.


Seen the posts s went back out for pictures
this is my idle speed just now firing it up trying to get a picture of where the belt is riding in the primary


And Ryan, yeah, the belt is definitely riding strong on the back of the primary sheeve, when ideling in park the belt is snug against back of primary and there appears to be a goo .125 +/- .030 between the front sheeve and belt...don't know how this will show up:


Where does one order a shim/s kit for the secondary? to start moving the secondary out and away from the engine? Do they come assorted sizes or do I need to remove the primary first and get solid measurements on all "4 corners" of the primary first and then find a happy medium? how much allowance am I allowed for shimming, do I have to depth mic it and try to shim within a .002 tolerance? or just get it as close as possible without being machinist anal tolerance wise?
 

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Your primary definitely has an issue. It very well could be just the wrong belt if its done it since you bought it.

Like mentioned above, you need to see if and where the belt is dragging on the primary. The 'shimming' of tge secondary is just to align it with the primary, not that there is an issue with the secondary.

Im not familiar enough with the xp's but there should be adjustability in the mounts. Mine needed quite a bit of movement once I replaced my one mount. Its pretty well and inspection eye balling game now to see what is causing the excessive drag on the belt. If that is the wrong belt, I would get the right one and see what it does. Fractions of an inch matter in the tight tolerances of the cvt systems.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #54
And if this has been the problem since day one I'l going to really be pissed since all it took was an amature video and some guys online that have a clue to say, "your shits jacked"....when I had a dealer prep a new machine (don't know if they check that out or just figure it's fine from the factory which obviously it's not) BUT the fact the shop that rebuilt this after it rolled checked it out and said everything is fine...is why I have no faith in shops and have learned so much by just trying shit myself since ya cant trust anybody it seems anymore.

So guys, if ya find a good tech, stick with them...I know from racing it's a great day when you find a person who is as anal and cares MORE than you do, so support them, chances are they're under paid for their services. Ryan, you've been such a good help from day one, wish I was closer as I'd bring it up and let you put your hands on it and get this bitch sorted out and save me the trouble..fun learning, but my gawd I have better things to do right now LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
That last belt/clutch picture, if you right click and select properties, then copy the url and paste that in the browser you can see the BIG picture and zoom in to really highlight the gap in the belt/sheeve
 

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Is that the same dealer that said the 550 had been around forever and that's why they were better then an 850? I'm sure your dealers are limited in your area so you pretty much on your own, which sucks.
 

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The shims come in .030 and .060 and you can get them at the dealer. BUT, With the new pictures the belt looks like it's pretty well centered. Can you take one without the engine running? Also, did you put any shims in the primary with the spring when you put the kit in? If not, I'm thinking the idle may be overcoming the spring a little at idle now that it popped into my head. Stock engagement is about 1800 on that machine and you need to run the thin shim to keep it there. I may have forgotten to add that note to your kit's tag.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Left of this picture is engine side of primary



any online sources for the shims to fit this machine? Both dealers would be 1.5 or 2 hr round trip plus how ever long they take to look stuff up and complete transaction...so getting some shipped would be nicer frankly due to schedule challenges. Found some for rzr but dont know fitment issues
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Shim wise i just put everything back in order of oem and then added the stuff you sent me..only used the thick shim with the qsc kit.

Before stock engagment on mine was 1900 and with the kit and one thick shim is 2000.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Is that the same dealer that said the 550 had been around forever and that's why they were better then an 850? I'm sure your dealers are limited in your area so you pretty much on your own, which sucks.
The monster dealer where i bought mine was the furthest away dealer and that service manager is the one that said they see alot of 850's come back with belt issues and the 550 is just an updated version of the 500 platform thats been feild tested and bullet proof for yrs.

The dealer closer to me is the one that basically owned the polaris market for decades and issort of losing some market share due to other huge super dealers taking on polaris...but they must be doing okay since they just added a huuuge new service building to handle the increased work load (not sure if thats good or bad lol but parking lot is forever full of machines waitig to get in) but these r the guys that did my insurance fix and i had them check clutch since i tild them somethi g isnt right since the machine cant freewheel backwards and i wanted them to remove the engine braking stuff....which they said they couldnt but did say the clutch was great, nothing wrong with it...sometimes it just takes awhile to get things broke in and smoothed out but everything is normal...yeah its not
 
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