[theblet]

I have a 2002 Polaris magnum 325. It has a new key ignition which has been working perfectly (even tried the old one which was sticking, same thing). I went to crank it today and no lights on the dash, no headlights, no crank at all. Starts right up using recall starter. Also starts right up when I jump the starter solenoid. Battery is charged, and ground checks out to several bolts on the frame.

I remember that when the left double kill switch is off, there is no lights on the dash. If I disconnect it, there is no change How can I verify if this is the problem? Maybe it isn’t because it does run. The ignition also does kill the engine when I put it in off position.

Any help is appreciated.

thanks

 

[latebird]

The electrical path is this: red to key switch - red connects to red/blk - red/blk goes to the LH switch assy - at the LH switch red/blk connects to red/wht - red/wht goes to all the accessories and back to the key switch - when the key switch is turned to the start position, red/wht is connected to wht/red to energize the solenoid and activate the starter motor.

Generally it is the wiring connectors at the LH that are the source of most problems.

 

[theblet]

Thanks for this. So if I unplug the connector on the left hand side, and jump red/blk to red/wht, that will bypass the LH on off switch?

 

[latebird]

Well, jumping red/blk to red/wht will get everything to work except the head lights - the connection between red/wht and the headlight switch is internal to the switch assy. Also, you lose reverse override and the kill function. The engine is killed by connecting blk to brn and reverse override is activated when purple is connected to grey/white

 

[theblet]

Thank you. I will try this when I get a chance. I appreciate it!

 

[theblet]

Just looked at this. Seems I have two red/blk wires in one connector and one red/wht in the other. Does it matter which one I jump? Also what is the correct position of these connectors? I wasn’t paying attention when I pulled them out. D’oh 🤦🏻‍♂️ it won’t let me attach a picture to the thread.

Thanks

 

[theblet]

Here’s a link to my pic

521-CE5-A5-053-B-40-A2-9925-86-C643-F0-F097 hosted at ImgBB

Image 521-CE5-A5-053-B-40-A2-9925-86-C643-F0-F097 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

 

[latebird]

Yes, there is two red/blk wires - they run in parallel - no it does not make a difference which one you jump to the red/wht, unless the one you select is broken - check for 12v+ on each red/blk wire

 

[theblet]

Great thanks. What about my pic? Do I have the connectors reversed?

 

[latebird]

Great thanks. What about my pic? Do I have the connectors reversed?

I don't believe you can plug the wrong connector into the wrong socket, but they are correct as pictured

 

[theblet]

Thank you !!!

 

[theblet]

Well I connected the red/wht to each of red/blk and still no dash lights. Gotta look further I guess

 

[latebird]

Is there 12v on the red/blk wire with the key switch on?

 

[theblet]

I’m getting 9v. But The battery shows 12v.

 

[latebird]

Jumper directly from bat + to the red/wht wire

 

[theblet]

That worked! What does it mean? Lol

 

[latebird]

Key switch or key switch connection is faulty

 

[theblet]

I gotcha. I just changed the key switch and it worked for awhile. When it went out, i put the old one back and it did the same thing. (Old one worked fine, but it was sticking) Is there anything else between the LH assembly and the key switch? Like fuses, terminal blocks, etc? If not I’ll open the hood and start taking the loom off.

 

[latebird]

Nope - you have a bad switch or broken wire - if you bought a replacement switch from Amazon, chances are you got a defective one right out of the box or bag

 

[theblet]

Yes, Amazon switch. You’re been very helpful with this thank you so much. I will let you know the progress.