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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
bought a 1995 scrambler 400 two stroke 4x4.. It ran good and would stay running but had the common water seal leak around the counterbalance shaft and continuously lost antifreeze.. but it did run good.
I bought the parts (seals, gaskets, bearings) and removed the 3rd case and all parts involved ( flywheel, stator, etc.) and made the repairs. In the process removed all plastic, gas tank, and exhaust so I could clean it all. I also fixed the wiring for the fan (it had been cut and wired directly hot to be on constant)
Put it all back together, changed the oil, and put it all back together.

Started right up and ran fine. I took it out and drove around the house and after only about 4-5 minutes it just died.. not sure if it lost fuel or ignition. Would crank and crank but not start. Came out next day and tried it cold and it started right up. Took right off , ran strong, and then the same thing... after about 4-5 minutes just died.

What the hell is going on here. It is like as soon as it warms up a little it is losing either ignition or fuel.. Did I do something wrong putting it back together? when it ran with the leaky seal it would run forever... I would love any help anyone can give
 

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maybe check for air leaks around the seals .....cranks and cylinder base gasket also your carb intake boot ?
 

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Try loosening the fuel filler cap and riding to see if there is any improvement. If so, check the vent hose on the fuel tank for being routed properly and not kinked or pinched. My vent hose laid on the exhaust and melted shut, would run good until it pulled a vacuum on the tank and it would stall out. Let it sit 30 minutes or so and it would fire up and run again.
 

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Agreed on the fuel issue, but could also be a stator issue. I have seen many a stator that works cold, then as it warms up the wires flex a little and lose connection and spark. IF the fuel vent isn't the issue, then check it for spark immediately when it dies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
pdate.. it is stavring for fuel but not the vent

update on my scrambler 400;

went out this morning. wouldn't even start cold. pulled the plug and it was wet. put wire back on out of the motor and it did make fire,, though it was a weak yellow.
Went to town , bought a new NGK, put it in and started right up. To check to see if the vent was crimped and making a vacuum in the gas tank, I just took the gas cap off complete and pulled it out of the garage.....
SAME DAMN THING HAPPEND.. ran only about 2 minutes and died out.

I was losing daylight so I did not check and see if it was still firing at this point. riding again said could be the stator.. That makes total sense since I had to remove it to do the repairs... SO What am I looking for? I plan on taking the plastioc off and opening the third case again.... or is this an issue of the wires outside the motor routing up to the switches.. are the pulled tight in a bind or what?? What am I looking for? like I said it ran fine before I took it apart to repair the water pump seal

I thought stators just was for the charging?!? learning more everyday. I appreciate this site
 

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You have a service manual for it? Will be measurements in it for ohm testing the stator. It's possible you broke a wire on it or bent it to it's point of almost failing while removing, installing, or shuffling it around the garage. You don't need to tear it apart to test it, just unplug and ohm check it per the manual. do it cold, then right away when warmed up when it dies and compare the measurements to each other and to specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
anyone have an online manual page of testing a stator

I have an ohm meter,, but no manual on it.. Which wire do you unplug and check? I could still do some before and after comparisons. do you check it while cranking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
UPDATE! It IS a fuel problem... but what?!?!

Got it narrowed down to a fuel problem on thos two stroke scrambler... What is going on? Tobrecap.... It ran fine but leaky warer pump seal. Tore it down.. Fixed that... Now bavk together but will only run for a quick minute or two and dies... Thouhjt it was the stator but it has constant fire.. Have changed plug but it doesnt help. When i take the new plug out it is wet.. I did do this;
1) checked vent tube.. It runs up tank and down througj center of handle bars. O cant see where it is kinked or blocked anywhere. Besides, have left gas cap off for air and no change.
2) have check fuel lines for kinks from when i had the tank off. Dont see any.
3) took the air box off. I do notice when trying to start it id you block the mouth of the carb with your hand it starts.. But dies off soon afrer removing. That is essentially choxkong it nut it works better than choke.

4) what is the hose wihlth the inline dodadd straight off tje bottom of the carb? Mine goes loose like a vent. Cant remember if it was hooked to anything on the other end or not.. It comes off tje dead bottom of xarb
 

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The dodadd is a one way valve on the bottom of the carb. It will let you drain the bowl and not let any creapy crawlies get up into the carb.
Let's check the easy stuff first.
You do have good fuel flow at the carb.? you have physically removed the hose at the carb. and have had good fuel flow?
Recheck your wiring connections on the ignition side, check to make sure you have a good connection at the spark plug cap and coil wire as well, sometimes you can by with snipping the end off just a bit and plugging it back in.
Just for kicks , you may want to check the air gap on the ETC-black box on the right handlebar, pop the top off and make sure you have at least a 1/16" gap at the contacts, adjustment is made thru the throttle cable adjuster further down the thrott. cable.
 

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Choking the carb off with your hand restricts air flow and riches it up. Sins like you have an air leak somewhere. Carb boot, crank seal. Once warmed up out gets worse and leans out and dies. Cools of, seals up enough to start, then does it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
how do i check that??

Will check the boot. But how do i check to see if a crank seal leak is there? I doibt that is it but i did have the 3rd case off. When i reassembled it i did put a new crank seal on it. How do i check it? Did yu mean air leak around the crank seal itself.. Or the area like aroind the third case. Would it draw air in through the counterbalance oil dipstick?? Mine broke off and i fished it out. Havent found another dipstick yet.. for now i have a rubber expansion plug in there
 

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If you didn't hear the seal a little when you put it in they can get chewed up fast. Spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid around the seals and boys while running. If rpm changes you've found the leak. Check the one behind the primary clutch toos that's the one that usually goes first.
 

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You said coolant was leaking. Did you possibly run it hot? Mine did this exact same thing this past weekend after I ran it hot. Run five minutes, dies. Cool off for an hour, fires right back up. Upon inspection I found that I had serious scaring on the walls of the cylinder where the (now warped) piston was rubbing. Cool, runs with decent clearence. Heats up, expands piston and shuts down. Just for reference, when mine did die it would still spin over but at a rediculous rate as if it had lost compression.
 

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1999 polaris scrambler 400 wont stay running?????? HELP

So i bought this scrambler a couple months ago and it was in rough shape. But it ran great. The only issue i had with running was the throttle sleeve was sticking and it would take about 25 to 30 seconds to idle down after releasing. So i took it apart and cleaned it really good and hit it with a little wd40 and it was working great after that. Then the other day i went to go for a ride and started to bog out when i hit the gas and would only stay running when i choked it. So i cleaned the entire carb and put it back together, still the same. So i took it all apart again and took off the intake and my reeds were bad, so naturally i figured that was probably the problem. So i ordered a whole new reed plate and all and a carb kit, and new air filter. Today i put the new reeds in, rebuilt the card, put new air filter on, and changed the plug, and it still will not idle whatsoever. It still runs good but i have to keep the throttle open. so i know it's not a fuel problem or it wouldn't run. And i'm completely at a loss, need suggestions, or if someone else has had the same issue a solution. thanks in advance. I'll try to post a video of it running so you can see what its doing.
 
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