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Discussion Starter #1
I have 2014 Polaris 570 atv. I am the Second owner. I went today to move the atv to gain access to my pontoon and fan would not turn on. The previous owner by passed at least one of the sensors I know of and hooked a toggle switch that allows the fan be turned on manually by the switch. Ever sense I owned it when the toggle switch is turned on the fan will run up till today. Turned the switch on and nothing. Traced back to inline fuse he installed at the battery where it gets power from it. Found he had a 30amp fuse in it. The fuse has melted and ruined the plug in which the fuse sets in.

I cut out the fuse and wired it hot with no fuse fan came on. Thinking alright found the problem, I unhooked ran and got another inline fuse set up similar to the one he had. Repacked with new one and fan came on with toggle switch on. Wired together all the way and secured then nothing thinking one of the wires came lose I removed the in line fuse but everything was connected. So unwired and rewired hot again still nothing now? Checked all the other fuses etc... all was fine. Low and behold I decided to wire it up again with in line fuse yet again and it worked. So as for now the toggle switch with new inline fuse is allowing it to come on. My questions are as followed is there another sensor that wouldn’t allow for the fan to come on right away? The bike was not running while doing all of this. What size fuse should be used in the inline fuse holder?

It just makes no sense to me the second time wiring hot that the fan didn’t come on then after a few minutes (10) or so I had power back to the wire and reinstalled the inline fuse and now is working. Why did it not do so the first time I rewired with in line fuse. All is working now but I have a feeling I am missing something? Any help would be great as I don’t want to have problems while hunting. Thanks
 

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If the wire was run directly from the battery to the orange/black wire on the fan, all sensors, fuses and relays were bypassed. The fuse is to protect the wire - if the fuse holder was melted and the fuse not blown, it indicates the wires were trying to carry more amperage than they were capable of, but less than the rating of the fuse.

Which is smarter; a 5 amp fuse protecting a 30 amp wire or a 30 amp fuse protecting a 5 amp wire? You can fuse a 5 amp wire at 30 amps and guess which will burn out first?

It's quite likely the fan motor is damaged. As a wire heats from the current, the voltage drops as the current goes up - the voltage drop will cause the fan motor to run hot and slower than normal.

The original wiring was a fail safe design that was not perfect. If the coolant temperature sending unit failed, the fan would run constantly. If the PO wanted the fan to control the fan with a switch, all he had to do was wire a switch into the sensor wire. Open (turn off) the switch and the fan would come on. Close the switch and the fan would come on when the sensor opened.

My personal opinion would be to put it all back as wired from the factory and make sure all functions as designed, then if you want to be able to turn the fan on manually, install the switch in the sensor wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok makes sense. So you are saying that it should old have a 5amp fuse or max 10amp fuse the wire is very small not sure the exact size but he had either a 20 or 30 amp fuse as it was green. I thought it was To big myself but didn’t no it was that way till yesterday.

All is working right now so I will leave it be and downsize the fuse. The wire I am talking about is just a power wire coming from the switch to the battery and is tied in a main harness on the fan. The fan seems fine as it runs smooth. I think the switch got left on by me🤦🏻*♂️ Over night and the wire got hot In turn melted the fuse and holder. That has been removed if the proper size fuse was in there it should have failed and not burned up.

That is why I am curious as to what you feel the right size fuse to be for the wire going to the fan should be I am thinking 5 or 10amp fuse max but want to be sure I am correct. While I would love to start fixing all the other you mention the bike has ran fine with the old set up which we both agree was wrong due to the fuse size. So if I install new inline fuse with the proper size fuse, I believe all will be good.

As I stated don’t want to get into a lot on this atv $$$ wise cause I use it so rarely. Again thanks for all the help!!!
 

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Most in-line fuses you buy at Autozone or other supplier are 12 gauge wire with a 30 amp fuse (there might be other sizes available, but I think the 30 is the most widely carried and available) - while it comes with a 30 amp fuse and is rated at 32 volts, any fuse smaller than 35 amps can be inserted into the holder.

The fan is not fused - it is controlled by a relay and the relay is controlled by the ECM - the ECM uses the engine temperature to map the fuel injection - the only things (other than wiring and connections) that can affect fan operation is the sensor, ECM, fan relay and the fan motor. The relay has the highest failure rate.

From the service manual: If the fan motor draws more than 10 Amps, replace the motor.

Based on this information, I believe a 10, 12 or 15 amp fuse should be adequate.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you so much for the details you listed. I installed a 10amp fuse in it and it is currently working so I don’t believe the fan is pulling over 10amp or the fuse would blow. I will keep an eye on that. The fan relay appears to be fine and working. So the next thing is the sensor that might be causing the other problem I listed. For now the fan is working with the switch on, not blowing the fuse and all appears to be ok. With that said the sensor might be failing? Or as u said the fan might be drawing more then 10amp. If so fuse will blow and I will have caught it by ways of that. Hopefully it was a fluck thing with the fan not coming on yesterday even though hard wired for a bit.
 

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You test the sensor by starting the engine and unplugging it - if the fan runs unplugged, the sensor is probably OK - Polaris wired it this way so if the sensor failed, the fan would run all the time instead of failing to come on.
 
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