Polaris ATV Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I went to pull the front diff plug so I could drain it to replace the seals for the prop shaft and I stripped the allen key hole...
I had the right bit and used a 1/4" socket on a ratchet. Couldn't get it out. ..
I even had to heat the case to get the fill plug out... never had a problem before and I service it regularly. .. I always make sure not to overtighten too... damn steel plug and aluminum case...

Well clean fluid in it now so this will be a spring project to pull the front diff out to remove the plug.... figure some gentle heat and large vise grips should work.
If not then I'll weld a bolt into the allen hole...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
737 Posts
Yeah that has always been my backup plan. Weld a nut on and use a socket. Haven't worked on a 800/500 in a while any way you can tack it there while in the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yeah that has always been my backup plan. Weld a nut on and use a socket. Haven't worked on a 800/500 in a while any way you can tack it there while in the bike.
That's probably the fastest way... I'll deal with it in spring... I'm wore out from the recent tear down...
fixed:
wheel bearings
Suspension bushings
tie rod ends
front diff prop shaft seal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
ive had luck in the past driving a star bit into them a little cordless impact gun

also, using heat wont really help as the steel bolt expands and the aluminum doesnt so much - if you got a can of freon around, freeze the bolt instead of heating,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,891 Posts
loctite makes a product called freeze off....works good on stuff like that....spray the plug an be ready to try to remove it...I also seen a tool awhile ago that was used to remove striped allen head bolts...it may have been a craftsman or cobalt tool..but not sure....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the suggestions fellas!

Once I get the plug out I had thought to buy an aftermarket plug with a hex head like one made by Tusk.
Any thoughts on doing so. Are the plugs good? Only worry is that if it sticks down below the skid plate it would be no good. I assume that's why Polaris uses the Allen key plugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
What seal did you use?

Ronnie
I used a seal kit for the front diff. The kit includes all seals to rebuild the front diff.
The seals that were bad on mine were the 2 that seal the back plate of the diff and the seal for the output shaft for the prop shaft.
Wasn't hard to do. Hardest part was finding the right punch to drive out the shaft pin holding the prop shaft to the output shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
This is a 2012 and you had to fix all that already?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
This is a 2012 and you had to fix all that already?
Well nothing was broken. Other than the seal leaking everything else was just worn and changed as a preventive measure.
It's a 2012 with 1,300 hard miles on it.
Sounds like a lot to fix but with how I ride plus the tires, weight, and mud I go through these repairs are expected.
Wanna play hard gotta pay.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,580 Posts
This is a 2012 and you had to fix all that already?
Well nothing was broken. Other than the seal leaking everything else was just worn and changed as a preventive measure.
It's a 2012 with 1,300 hard miles on it.
Sounds like a lot to fix but with how I ride plus the tires, weight, and mud I go through these repairs are expected.
Wanna play hard gotta pay.
I did basically the same repairs/preventive maintenance/ upgrades and get the same reaction out of people. If ur riding hard the bushings are a given to be replaced. I replaced other essential parts because it was a.couple of more turns on the wrench when I was doing the bushings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
This is a 2012 and you had to fix all that already?
Well nothing was broken. Other than the seal leaking everything else was just worn and changed as a preventive measure.
It's a 2012 with 1,300 hard miles on it.
Sounds like a lot to fix but with how I ride plus the tires, weight, and mud I go through these repairs are expected.
Wanna play hard gotta pay.
I did basically the same repairs/preventive maintenance/ upgrades and get the same reaction out of people. If ur riding hard the bushings are a given to be replaced. I replaced other essential parts because it was a.couple of more turns on the wrench when I was doing the bushings.
Exactly. .. finally someone understands...
I like to keep my machine in top working condition.
I'd rather fix a worn part in my garage then a broken part on the trail.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top